Remote for 3HP Dust Collector

[Just_Dave]

Fred's idea is very good idea. However if you have a starter on your cycle you don't need a contactor. All you need is a relay rated for the proper voltages.
The relay contacts are wired into the start circuit on the starter and you are up and running. I used a commercial gate open/close wireless receiver and a relay to control mine. I've used it for 6 or 7 years now without a hitch. I think I've replaced the batteries in the remotes maybe twice. Speaking of remotes they come with a clip so a guy could get away with one as long as you can track of it. I've got 4 or 5 remotes scattered around the shop that way I'm never looking for where I left it last.

[BloomingtonMike]

My 5hp Delta Cyclone never had a starter or power button setup so I installed a contactor and a relay and use the $10 outdoor remote to switch the coil of the relay. I made it so you can just plug in the remote and makes it to easily replace later - I have replaced it once when the remote broke. For $10 its easier to replace than fix.

[Snipe Hunter]

A little side note about failed remotes. If you look inside the remote, you'll see a printed circuit board. The battery connectors are usually soldered onto that board. The battery terminals use spring tension to make contact with the battery. Quite often, the solder joint between the battery terminals and the PC board break because of that constant tension or from being dropped. The break can be hard to see. You might even need a magnifying glass if your eyes are as bad as mine. Re-solder those joints and you might have a working remote again.

I see a lot of this in the car business, particularly with the cheaper remotes for after-market alarms, power locks and remote starters... and a lot of Chrysler remotes. Those cheap remotes are the same cheap remotes used on a lot of these dust collector starters. It's a pretty common occurrence.

[fredhargis]

Cian, the only thing I've seen on it is with the Clearview assembly instructions (start at page 22). The diagram isn't htat good, but may suffice. That said, it couldn't be easier, but you would have to remove the existing switch from your Oneida, it won't work with the magnetic switch in line. Anyway, the list of parts is also easy: the contacter (look at page 2 of the CV "supporting products" tab, down the page some they call it a "heavy duty motor relay"), some wire (#12 SO). a box to hold the contacter, and the lamp remote. Depending on how you reuse parts or wire your motor you might need one or 2 other things. Several of us can talk you through the setup, it's really quite easy.

[Blacky's Boy]

Fred,
I like the DIY Concept. I've read through the instructions on the ClearVue web site and I think I understand the concept. I've even watched a video on YouTube that explains it a bit more

web page

You need a Contactor (relay) that will handle the 240v and have a low voltage input. The power switch on the DC needs to be bypassed and the Contactor now takes it place. To operate the Contactor you use a low voltage remote operated switch.

Do I have it mostly correct?

So you can get the Contactor maybe from an Electrical Supply House (like Billows Electric around here). While there I should probably pick up a NEMA enclosure to house the Contactor.

But what kind of Remote Switch do you use? And I assume you could also wire in a manual switch as well. Right? I'd put mine in the center of my shop hanging from the ceiling joists right in front of my tablesaw. About 90% of the work I do takes place in that area.

And how to you "bypass" the power switch on the DC?

[fredhargis]

I didn't use a low voltage switch, though you can. The contacter that CV sells, and the one I bought from MSC have 120V coils, so you can just use the lamp switches that the box stores have on the shelf, these generally are rated fairly low on amerage, somewhere around 10 amps, I've been using the ones made for outdoor use (like Christmas lights), they seem to be a little more sturdy and cost about $5 more. So, with the choice between the low voltage and the 120V being made, you basically have it right. When I installed mine, I simply replaced the mag switch with the contacter. So I didn't bypass it, I removed it. This setup doesn't leave you with a manual switch....I suppose you could figure out a way to do that, I just didn't try. As for the box, if you look in the outdoor conduit section at the box store, you'll see all kinds of them like the one I have in all manner of sizes. I think that one was about $8.

Edit to add: I forgot, the remote lamp switches usually have an on/off button located on the switch receiver. I guess you could consider it a manual switch.

[Blacky's Boy]

fredhargis said:

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<snip> The contacter that CV sells, and the one I bought from MSC have 120V coils, so you can just use the lamp switches that the box stores have on the shelf, these generally are rated fairly low on amperage, somewhere around 10 amps, I've been using the ones made for outdoor use (like Christmas lights), they seem to be a little more sturdy and cost about $5 more. So, with the choice between the low voltage and the 120V being made, you basically have it right. When I installed mine, I simply replaced the mag switch with the contacter. So I didn't bypass it, I removed it. This setup doesn't leave you with a manual switch....I suppose you could figure out a way to do that, I just didn't try. As for the box, if you look in the outdoor conduit section at the box store, you'll see all kinds of them like the one I have in all manner of sizes. I think that one was about $8.

Edit to add: I forgot, the remote lamp switches usually have an on/off button located on the switch receiver. I guess you could consider it a manual switch.

---

I was curious about the remove light switch so I looked over at HomeDepot's Web site and saw this one.

Wall Switch Kit for $23.97/each


So we have the contactor from ClearVue at about $25
SUPPORTING PRODUCTS


Or this 240V one for much cheaper
Packard C240B Packard Contactor 2 Pole 40 Amps 120 Coil Voltage for $11.99

Then we need a NEMA Enclosure (which I'm using just as an example. Not sure if it's overkill or not):
6 in. x 6 in. x 4 in. NEMA 1 Screw Cover Pull Box Enclosure for $16.25/each


And some 12/0 wire and other misc electrical hardware (which I most likely have already)

So you are telling me I could MAKE a remotely operated DC switch for just under $70?


If so,....darn that's pretty cool.

If that's all I need then I'm going to start assembling the parts and documenting the entire process. Mostly because I am NOT electrically inclined AT ALL and need to have everything laid out for me before I start.

[fredhargis]

Blacky's Boy said:

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And some 12/0 wire and other misc electrical hardware (which I most likely have already)

So you are telling me I could MAKE a remotely operated DC switch for just under $70?


If so,....darn that's pretty cool.

If that's all I need then I'm going to start assembling the parts and documenting the entire process. Mostly because I am NOT electrically inclined AT ALL and need to have everything laid out for me before I start.

---

It's actually better than that: you can make a remote that will last a very, very long time. About the only thing that will fail is the cheap light switch; I mentioned earlier that I keep an extra on hand (I use much cheaper switches) and simply change it out. Plus, if you have a large motor (mine is 5HP) you can get the contacter large enough to mage the higher loads, which is where some of the ready-to-use models fall a little short. That box (6x6x4) is the one I used. BTW, folks with 120V DC's can do this as well and save money. I set up a 120V unit for my HVLP sprayer and I think I spent less than $25 for everything on it. The 120V contacters are about $10 on e bay. Here's a 240V model for $12.

[Woodshop]

so for a grizzly G0441 3hp, do you need a 2 pole 240 or a 3 pole 240 ?

[Woodshop]

Blacky's Boy
that wall switch doesn't say it's an RF signal and from the reviews doesn't act like it.