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You need to keep wine at a cool temperature for long term storage-Since you are in California a store bought wine cooler seems the best. It might be OK to have a few bottles for display for a short time but not longer.
Personally I do not usually order wine at restaurants that have pretty displays and are kept at a high temperature. It is expected that beer should be kept cool yet a nice bottle of wine is often served 20 degrees warmer than it should be -ugh.
The room sized storage are nice with a tasting table inside.
Paul from the beautiful mid-coast of Maine (USA)
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I am building one now. I googled "wine bottle sizes" and was directed to several rack manufacturers because the make racks to fit different size bottles.
My verticals are 3-1/2" apart and I am attaching 3/4" x 3/4" cletes to the sides. That leaves a 2" opening for the bottle to rest on. These dimensions were derived from the illustrations at the rack manufacturers' sites.
So I have three verticals, a left, a right and a middle. I am spacing the cletes 3½" apart. So I have two vertical columns of 7 bottles each. I am making it 10" deep which leaves a little of the neck out to grab onto. Apparently the most common size bottle is 2-7/8" in diameter. I am assembling the rack this weekend. Then I will sand and finish. I have one wine bottle in the house to check fit. I guess if I have a 14 bottle capacity rack I should buy more wine.
Here is one:
http://www.wineracksamerica.com/Content/...sizes.htmlThis site gives actual bottle drawings.:
http://www.ginopinto.com/Bottle%20Dimens...202011.pdfThe Bordeaux bottle is the most common size from my readings on the subject.
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I found the site I used for the dimensions:
http://www.wineracksamerica.com/living-s...bottle.phpThey have a PDF of the assembly and you can get a good idea of the product from that.
When mine is assembled I will post a photo.
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Location: Eagle River Alaska
Alaskan's for Global Warming
Eagle River AK
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As usual, I can always count on my fellow woodnetters. Thanks to all for your posts.
Mikey
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My brother and his wife got a new fridge and it was 1 inch to tall. They asked me to build a wine rack to replace the cabinet above the fridge. They have cherry cabinets and cherry floor with maple accent pieces. They wanted the rack made with complimenting woods. I used cherry, maple, and Peruvian walnut. Here's a picture of it after installation.
Gary
Living under the radar, heading for "off the grid."
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glzahn said:
My brother and his wife got a new fridge and it was 1 inch to tall. They asked me to build a wine rack to replace the cabinet above the fridge. They have cherry cabinets and cherry floor with maple accent pieces. They wanted the rack made with complimenting woods. I used cherry, maple, and Peruvian walnut. Here's a picture of it after installation.
Well done!!
Gunners Mate, 1st Class, A long time ago...
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I've built the small wine rack. I will supply photos when the finish is applied.
The good: My dimensions were exactly on the nose.
I made the rack with three verticals (3/4" ply) and I spaced them so that there was 3-1/2" of width between them.
I added 3/4" x 5/8" x 10" "runners" on both sides for the bottles to rest on. Those were also placed with 3-1/2" open space between them.
The bottles rest perfectly on these runners.
Mistakes I made:
The center board was set into a top board and bottom one with a groove and glued. The runners were then glued to the both sides of the center board and to the insides of the two outer boards. (it is easier to understand when I post the photos).
I milled a 3/4" groove to the outer boards near the top and bottom and then I glued up a 3-box unit with all the runners in place. It is a very robust construction.
The problem lies in final sanding and finishing the iterior of the rack. My wrists and arms are all chewed up from reaching in to apply first the Seal Coat, and then to the first coat of G-F milk paint. I have one more coat of milk paint and three of clear to go. It takes a half an hour to apply each coat by brush.
I should have made the boxes with the final assembly using pocket screws. They would easily have been hidden under the counter top and over the plinth. Then finishing would have been a cinch. And certainly strong enough.
The other thing is that I used veneer tape to finish off the ply. I should have set back the runners a 1/8" or 1/4" to make trimming easier.
I did put a 15 degree angle on the runners an that looks fine. I should have slightly radiused the runners at the top. I think it would have been kinder on the labels if I had.
I did't think I'd need runners for the very bottom as the bottles would be resting on solid plywood. But that was an error too as they rolled around too much. I was able to add those runners easily.
I made a spacer to be sure that I had the spacing of the runners exactly right. It was a 3-½" x 12" piece of 3/4 MDF which I chamfered on the two long edges on one face so that the glue would not get on the spacer. This made spacing a snap.
But I am confident that the 3-1/2" spacing is exactly right for a standard wine bottle.
I made my rack just 10-1/2" deep so that the necks would extend out of the rack. This because it is in a difficult to reach area under the kitchen counter top. The standard is to make the rack the same depth as the height of the bottles.
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Perhaps one should drink the wine first and then plan the cabinet.
Alaskan's for Global Warming
Eagle River AK
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ruffcutt said:
Perhaps one should drink the wine first and then plan the cabinet.
Or pour alcohol all over my wounded hands. I've gotten the black finish down. But now it is 3 coats of clear. A pain to finish the interior.
It would have been time-effective to just start over with an assemble after finish design.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
