Accurate Edge Angles

[Steve N]

Guessing I missed the part to be angled. I saw "tilt" or am I correct? Evidently WT is with me, he said Jointer, which can work, but a track saw would actually deliver better consistency.

On the wedge cuts, a dubby, or similar will do it on a TS.

Semantics, they can cornfuse a thread right now

[D_Harris]

I'm thinking consistency is the most important thing.

I thought I'd loosely lock the saw as closely as I can get to the angle I need, then test it on scrap. I would then use my rubber mallet to make minute adjustments until it is perfect. I would then tighten the lever completely.

What do you  think?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[Cooler]

Like others I think this is a job for another tool.  

A Festool might work well however.

[handi]

If I am reading your issue correctly, you need to rip long edges at precise angles. This is difficult on a table saw, virtually impossible with a circular saw. 

What I will do typically is rip the edge close to the angle I want but leave some excess. A router bit is then used to trim the edge to the final angle. Not every angle is available in a router bit, but many are, and a custom bit can always be made.

[D_Harris]

Thanks everyone. I don't want to and can't spend a lot on new tools for just this project.

I did search for a router bit for this to no avail. Whiteside are the bits I buy and I found a 10 degree dovetail, but the cutting depth was only 5/8".

But just to make clear, using MsPaint I did my best to draw up the piece I am trying to create.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257...itp5wn.jpg

The drawing represents a piece that is 2 feet deep and 4 inches high. You'll notice the slant on the top. This slant is to be 10 degrees.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[texaswally]

Find a buddy who has a table saw. Would be about a 5 minute job.

[JGrout]

buy a straight router bit and build a 10 degree ramp 

I think you could make your cuts using a Circular Saw as long as you have a good straightedge guide and it would not have to be a purchased one 

[D_Harris]

I've been locked out of this forum for almost another year. So now I can get back to this thread/project. 
 

I'll skip pulling out my loud and and heavy table saw and go with your suggestion since a straight bit should be easy to find. (Or use my circular saw).

Making a straight edge should be no problem, but I still need to get that 10 degrees to tilt the router or saw. 


(I haven't yet found such a project online).

In fact, the project has gotten more complicated.

I've decided to go ahead and make alternate control panels for some full sized coin-operated arcade video games.

I can only assume that the best way to create these control panels is to make them the same way they were originally made and I was looking for advice before I got started.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257...Panel1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257...nel2-1.jpg

As you can see there are three main pieces glued together and then rounded and covered by some sort of thin laminate.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[Steve N]

If you have a TS, no matter how noisy I would try the cut on it first. You can accurately tilt the blade versus a miter gauge as shown below (few bux, and everyone can use one) Once the blade is set it is just a matter of using feather boards, either in the other miter slot, or magnetic ones to make sure the cut is kept tight to the angle of the blade. Using well prepped stock that is 4 square will make it a lot easier. If you use a featherboard always keep it on the saw operators side of the blade. IOW close to you, never on the far side of the blade, it will create a pinch and possible kickback. The picture shows placement perfectly for both downward, and sideward toward the rip fence pressure.


All sold everywhere, this pic is from Lee Valley.


They sell these feather boards at Harbor Freight for just a few bux, they work well, and again, you will find uses for them.




If that is more than you want to spend you might start another thread asking someone in your area to help you out. Having done these cuts on a TS, and also both standard circular saws, and track saws you will find it easier done on a TS. I didn't know that was an option.

[D_Harris]

As you can tell from my pics the joints will not be simple. Are you saying all that can be plausibly done on a table saw?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.