Really dumb TS Q - multiple angles

[Cecil]

I also should mention that if you only want one insert for several angles you can do it although the slot will be slightly wider each time you change the angle rendering it not quite a ZCI after each cut. this is not so much a detriment as the factory plate in the saw is.
Joe

Aram, the best way to do it is have a few plates for different angle ranges.  You don't need a different plate for every angle.  This has worked for me.  Problem trying to use one plate is too wide of an angle range will thin out the material around the slot.  IOW use one plate for 10-20 degree, 20-30, etc.

I do it the way Mathias showed in the video.  This is not a zero clearance insert, but a near zero clearance insert.  For ripping, that is fine.

I have not tried a smaller range of angles, but it makes sense.

[mike4244]

I have made several coopered tops and doors too. I only used one angle.The ones I made were a gentle arc, is your top an ellipse? I get the angle by making a partial full scale drawing of the arc,then draw two squared end pieces and measure the divided angle. Gets me very close. Best to make the top then you have the dimensions for the box,if this is practical.On coopered doors I often have to adjust the angles slightly on a jointer .

mike

[Aram]

I have made several coopered tops and doors too. I only used one angle.The ones I made were a gentle arc, is your top an ellipse? I get the angle by making a partial full scale drawing of the arc,then draw two squared end pieces and measure the divided angle. Gets me very close. Best to make the top then you have the dimensions for the box,if this is practical.On coopered doors I often have to adjust the angles slightly on a jointer .

mike

The top has a gentle curve in the middle and arcs in harder at the edges. It's not an ellipse or any other specific geometry, just the outcome of some doodling i was happy with.

I messed around with some drawings, and it looks like I can get away with two, maybe even one angle cut. And I might hand plane one of them.

Thanks for the feedback!

[Alan S]

You might get away with leaving the angles all the same, but varying the width of the staves.

[vitabile]

Being able to cut a ZCI for an angle depends a lot upon the saw. My Craftsman Zipcode saw (can't remember the dang model number off hand) doesn't tilt the blade raising mechanism when you tilt the blade. The blade is tilted, but it raises straight up & down just the same.

I could probably cut one by titling the blade then running the insert blank though the blade like it were a board & stopping short of the full through cut, but I don't want to think about that cut. Gives me the hebbee jeebees.

[Steve N]

Saw this at LJ's when they had me locked out here, simple to make looks like. Joe is this like yours?

[DogwoodTales]

The only angled zci's I keep on hand are 90, 45, 30, & 15.
Not sure how often you will need to change the angle of the blade or what angles you need 
but if it were me and I had to change the angle often and I didn't NEED a zci for it 
I would probably just use my stock plate so I wouldn't have to change out the zci so often - 
plus it would save me the time of having to make a bunch of new ones with weird angles just for one project.

Again that's if I didn't need a zci for the project. 
If the cut-offs become a binding issue and there's a lot to do, then I would be more inclined to make the zci's