Table saw binding issue

[gjohn]

I always found, especially on Sears 113 saw that a pair of PALS was like gold for the adjustment of the saw The folks there are really nice. If you can't figure which set you need for your saw, give em a call. Helpful tip, get the Model # of the saw before you call.

Once they are on, and you have adjusted the saw you will be able to more easily get the saw right. You still have those silly miter slots to contend with, but there are worse things in life.

Good luck, a lot of us started with those 113 saws

Steve:

Thanks for the link to the PALS.

I have a 113 and that sounds like a great idea.

John

[Steve N]

Yeah PALS are great. I hope OP can get a set for the newer old Sears saw. Anytime someone says old sears saw my mind just goes to the 113's. There are quite a few of them out there.

If OP can't get PALS, sounds like John found a fix with quality hardware. You can't make good using junk, but you can improve junk adding good

[soliphant]

I decided to turn the saw upside down to get a better view of what is happening. When starting to raise or lower the blade, the part of the mechanism that moves up and down at the opposite side of the handle begins to move to one side or the other as well as up or down. At that point it becomes difficult to turn the handle. Of course the blade is now out of alignment. I sprayed some lubricant on the points where I think the blade housing rotates up and down. I will see tomorrow if anything good happens.

Another thought is the locking handle. I don't see any difference with the handle locked down or loosened like the directions say. Could this be a problem?

Steve

[sawdust703]

As mentioned, make sure everything is good & clean. I used brake cleaner on mine, then took a brass brush to all the trunions i could get to. After shining them up, I used lithium grease to lube. Don't over do it, just enough to create a lube base. Make sure everything is tight & straight. Make a mark on a blade tooth with a sharpie, & measure from your miter tracks to that tooth on both sides. Use a tri square to adjust your blade straight up & down. Move your fence to the blade, adjust the fence to the blade. Take a carpenters square, check for squareness with the saw deck. The fence & the blade. Run your wood to be cut thru the jointer. Run the jointed edge thru the saw, & check things again. Its possible you may have a bent stub shaft, or such. Have you waxed your saw deck & fence? If not, get a coat of wax on them. It will help the wood slide easier. Just my .02 worth.

[ez-duzit]

I have a Craftsman contractors table saw...

This has to be at least part of the problem. But you might be able to rebuild the loose/weak stuff.