Can table saw wobble be corrected?
#21
Do you have another blade? If so, install it, and check for wobble. If you don't have another, do you have a friend with a known good blade that you can install on your saw to check. Just a thought
Ed
Ed
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#22
Here are a couple videos indicating my findings regarding the blade run out. I had taken off the arbor washers and they mate perfectly with no light saying in between them. I am not sure where to go from here. Again, I'd like to keep the saw and make it work BUT not for an unreasonable cost of money or time. 
I did mark the high and low spots on both sides of the blade, they are not exactly the same but a reasonably close to the same. Also, I have tried a couple different blades and they both seem to do the same thing. Am I to assume that the bearings are garbage? I don't know if it matters, but when you turn the saw offthe blade runs or spins for a long time.
Any thoughts?

https://youtu.be/4rrkZ8154hE

https://youtu.be/0b5XYuBnXhk


https://youtu.be/5Wx8durbvmU
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#23
Quicker yet to see if your blade has movement, just make a cut. Take a piece of scrap, push it through with the miter gauge and cut it completely at a dead 90*. Turn off the saw. Without moving anything rejoin both sides of the cut. Is there a gap? Now flip one piece over don't move it, just flip it, so what had been on the table is now up in the air. Rejoin the cut, is there a gap? If you do that and get no notable gap, you don't have anything to worry about with the arbor. I'd just change the blade, and see if things look better. Not the blade, or caked dirt/dust/pitch, I'd start looking for a different saw. Repair is likely going to be more than value.

I've seen blades run that I was sure there was wobble, yet the saw made square cuts, which it couldn't do with a wobble. Optical illusion? Not sure of the term to use, but nothing was wrong, now if the saw is making crappy cuts, and you have tried more than 1 blade. I usually try 3. Consider it's not a high end saw, I suppose you have to choose if goofy cuts, which are also likely unsafe at some level, are acceptable to spending more $$$ for a better saw. Not sure what your market is, but here you can buy Sears .113 saws all day for a hunnert bux.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#24
I have a suspicion that the wobble that has him concerned is from a somewhat ragged edge cut or cross cut leaving marks on the stock 

There are ways to determine the runout of an arbor , even a sawblade. 

putting two loose washers together that show no light is pretty much going to show nothing.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#25
Steve N, ironically I sent an email today on a Sears 113 series....

JGrout, what made me curious was that I actually saw the wobble before I cut. I got this thing free so there was really no I section other the  flipping the on off switch to see it run. I got the washer idea from woodgears.ca....although you suggest it wouldn't matter, seems to me if one of the washers that holds the blade was warped or had a burr or whatever, thay could in fact effect the trueness of the blade it held.
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#26
That is somewhat true but you need to understand that the motor side washer has TWO surfaces that matter  just because the blade surfaces mate you still have no idea if the inside and outside are parallel 

As to your observation I am less concerned with start up wobble unless it appears in the cuts and is pretty noticeable 

If that is indeed the case I suppose short of tearing it all apart you need some verifiable way to safely determine where the issue lays 

Bearings, arbors, washers, motor mounts even the blade are suspect; you have to narrow it down 

or live with it 

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#27
(08-04-2017, 10:38 PM)JGrout Wrote: As to your observation I am less concerned with start up wobble unless it appears in the cuts and is pretty noticeable 


Joe

Joe that was why I went the direction I did, he saw it. If seeing it, and it still makes square cuts it's just some type of illusion, could be a blade change could make it go away. Can't fix a square cut
Big Grin

Figured it would be 2 minutes and a piece of 1x scrap, maybe 3" wide to find out. Most of the previous suggestions may find something "IF" there was a problem. My thought there, is it worth the price to do a fix? Some old tools are just destined to be scrap?
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#28
Wouldn't the wobble just make a wider kerf like a wobble dado blade
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#29
(08-05-2017, 12:33 PM)fixtureman Wrote: Wouldn't the wobble just make a wider kerf like a wobble dado blade

That is one thing it may do 

Another is it will leave saw tracks on the cut material 

It can also be a potential place for kickback if the stars align.

Wobble is neither simple nor easy to nail down without further testing
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#30
Moot point now. I brought home a USA made Delta. Will post pics soon.

Thanks for the advice.
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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