Shop wiring question

[Herb G]

When I wired my shop (still in progress) I set a sub panel and ran 12/3 Romex to a 2 gang box.
I wired a duplex receptacle on each circuit separately.
In other words, the 1st plug was on circuit one, 2nd was on circuit 2, etc.
I ran 12/3 between all the plugs, so it was easier to keep track of.
 I ran the whole shop like that. I only put 4 duplex plugs on each circuit.
I alternated the circuits so it won't pop the breaker running high amperage tools.

So, it would be A1, B1, then C1, D1, A2, B2, C2, D2, etc.
The lights went on their own circuit. I split the lights into 2 circuits, so if one goes out, I'm not stuck in the dark.
There's only 1 220 V circuit for future use.

I had to wire my basement while I was at it. Furnace, washer & dryer, fridge, freezer, sump pump, water heater, etc.
I bet there's 2500 feet of wire in my basement right now.
Everything was wired on it's own circuit, other than the plugs.

Complicated? Not for me. I did it for 35 years for a living.

[Cecil]

So, it would be A1, B1, then C1, D1, A2, B2, C2, D2, etc.
The lights went on their own circuit. I split the lights into 2 circuits, so if one goes out, I'm not stuck in the dark.
There's only 1 220 V circuit for future use.

While Ed does not see the need for the two circuits close together, I do.  I have popped breakers.  However I think Herb's solution is overkill for a one person shop.  Even on the occasion I have a helper, the two circuits has been plenty.

[TDKPE]

Never seen the point in using seperate circuits in the same box or alternating circuits as you go down the wall.

I only have one 20A circuit for all the 120V receptacles in my basement shop, and it's been fine.  I have a second 20A circuit for the receptacles at my utility bench, but that was supposed to be mainly for an electric oil-filled heater, which it turns out, I never use as I rather prefer it cool, and it's usually in the low- to mid-60's down there all year long.  

BUT, my 120V '2 hp HFDC' blower on a cyclone separator  has its own circuit, so the machines have a 20A circuit to themselves.  Those who use a portable 120V DC on larger machines would probably need to run them on separate circuits, depending on motor size and rated current.  If the DC is moved around from machine to machine, it would be best to be able to plug in near the work rather than use a long cord.

But the other half of that is that large loads need to be acommodated somehow, which usually means dedicated circuits for things that run independent of whatever else is going on in the shop (large air compressor or DC or heat/cool, for instance).  But other large loads can share a circuit if operated one at a time, like my 2 hp RAS, 3 hp Unisaw, and 1 hp lathe with VFD, which all use the same 240V circuit with a handful of receptacles around the perimeter, leaving it up to me to not put excessive load on it.  Just like the average kitchen counter receptacle circuit, which is easily overloaded with just a couple of appliances (hence the requirement for two or more such 20A circuits in a kitchen).

That's my reasoning for recommending two circuits for general tool use, at the risk of sounding defensive.  
 

[daddo]

One thing I enjoy having is a wall switch that cuts power to the outlets. When I leave the shop, I turn them off and no need to unplug the tools, including the table and band saws (2 pole switches).

[John Mihich]

I have 4 120 circuits.  1.  for lights, 2. outlets in the ceiling for drop downs 3.  along the wall for all my equipment.  4 - furnace.  1 - 220 circuit for my compressor.   The outlets for my equipment/bench are on a GFCI.  

I only have 2 things running at the same time - tool and dust collector or shop vac.  One circuit has more than enough to carry that load.    All of my lights are plug in tube lights so I can add more later easily.