110v Wiring help needed

[shoottmx]

It's a Broan heater, 1500 watt convertible to 750 watt by removing a jumper. I'll do that, it's going to be used as a supplement to warm a bathroom at bath time. 750 watts is far superior to nothing.

The room that backs up to the bath is currently used only for storage but will ultimately become LOML's office. All the receptacles are wired to the side screws, NOT back stabbed. For the short term I'm going to remove the receptacle, pigtail the appropriate wires together then put a cover plate on the box. When electrician Matt is available we'll see if he can run a dedicated circuit.

Thanks for the guidance,

g

[brianwelch]

It's a Broan heater, 1500 watt convertible to 750 watt by removing a jumper. I'll do that, it's going to be used as a supplement to warm a bathroom at bath time. 750 watts is far superior to nothing.

The room that backs up to the bath is currently used only for storage but will ultimately become LOML's office. All the receptacles are wired to the side screws, NOT back stabbed. For the short term I'm going to remove the receptacle, pigtail the appropriate wires together then put a cover plate on the box. When electrician Matt is available we'll see if he can run a dedicated circuit.

Thanks for the guidance,

g

GFI based on location?

[shoottmx]

GFI based on location?

There's no GFI on the bedroom circuit that will feed this heater. Is one necessary for a hard  wired heater mounted in a wall?

Thanks,  g

[DieselDennis]

If you put something electrical in a bathroom is probably needs to be on a GFCI circuit. I'm sure others will correct me, but I believe there's some "proximity to water" distance that requires a GFCI.

Not that hard to do. Go back up the wiring route and replace the previous outlet with a GFCI outlet.

[Roly]

Check your state and local codes. In MD, any electrical fixture within 3f of a water source or potential wet location requires it to be on a GFCI. That said, if you don't want to install a GFCI on location, you can install a GFCI breaker on your panel.  But they are stupid expensive compared to regular breakers. Again, check local codes.

ANY 15 or 20 amp 125v receptacle in a bathroom needs to be gfci protected in the newer code.  no mention of distance from water source.   Roly

[shoottmx]

It's up and running at 750 watts without a GFI. It's hard wired--no receptacle. I'll get my electrician to run a dedicated line as soon as he can get here.

Thanks for all your knowledgeable input. Woodnet rocks!

g

[Cdshakes]

So when you have that outlet apart in the other room to tap into, replace it with a GFI outlet.  Get a deeper box, as suggested, so you can jam all these wires back in when you're done (or change it to a double gang box).  
Pigtail the wires coming in and out-- you can decide if you want the rest of the circuit on the GFI, or just that outlet and the bathroom heater.  Anything on the "load" side of the GFI outlet is protected.

Colin

[shoottmx]

So when you have that outlet apart in the other room to tap into, replace it with a GFI outlet.  Get a deeper box, as suggested, so you can jam all these wires back in when you're done (or change it to a double gang box).  
Pigtail the wires coming in and out-- you can decide if you want the rest of the circuit on the GFI, or just that outlet and the bathroom heater.  Anything on the "load" side of the GFI outlet is protected.

Colin

That sounds good but I think we'll need a dedicated line to run the heater at 1500 watts. 750 warms the room but it's been running for over an hour with the temp only up to 72 from the low 60's. I'd like it to heat faster than that.

Thanks,  g

[daddo]

I was going to say, if the heater has the ability for 1,500w, regardless of a jumper, the supply circuit should meet the highest capable wattage. Someone could always later add or remove that jumper.

[messmaker]

You have a capacity of about 1800 watts. 1500 is max for your heater. That leaves 300 for the rest. It is alright if you are hooked into a light circuit as most Led lights only pull about 10 watts per bulb. If it goes to another plug, you will be overloaded. I am not positive but pretty sure that a GFI breaker might be the way to go.