Rip treated lumber?
#20
Not sure that I’d trust a 1x3 for a railing. Seems pretty flimsy to me.
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#21
I have ripped 1x6 pickets for a fence.  They were not uniformly treated.

But it made no difference.  My last picket was only 3 1/2” wide.  But it looked out of place and was right next to the gate near the house.  You would notice it every time you entered the back yard.

So instead I took 5/8” out of the center of three pickets and reglued them with titebondIII.  Didn’t have to deal with trying to treat a cut edge.
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#22
I have found that the mostly wet PT lumber is difficult to rip. 

I ripped some 2 x 6 lumber and the lumber would close in after the cut and it would close in after the cut and bind the blade.  I have an aftermarket "splitter" with small plastic tabs, but that was of little help as the tabs got pulled out. 

I ended up starting the cut, stopping and wedging wood into the cut area to keep it spread.

Unless you have a very big saw, you will have to cut the 4" x 6" with two cuts, one on each side.  The first cut will be fine as the lumber cannot close up.  You can drive wedges in before the second cut and I recommend that.

And wear a dust mask when cutting PT, even if you have dust collection.
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#23
In my experience, ripping any 1 by material depends on the moisture content. PT 1 by that is dry is fine as a rule.

ACQ (CCA replacement) is detrimental to aluminum. Be sure to clean and aluminum saw surfaces. Not sure about Yella Wood treatment.

You could use cedar and not worry(as long as the cedar is dry).
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#24
Have you considered using cedar? At that size it might not be too pricey.
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#25
(03-29-2020, 04:04 PM)Scouter Wrote: Looking for something that doesn't seem to exist - treated 1x3. If I rip a treated 1x6 will I compromise the treating?

I just redid my deck last year and I used Deck boards for the top rails ripped down to 3.5 inches wide to match the width of the 4x4 post. I then ran the cut edge through the router table to round over the edges. Looks great. 

Pressure treated deck boards are soaking wet all the way through when you get them so there is no difference between the inside and outside in my opinion.
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#26
(03-30-2020, 08:50 AM)Cub_Cadet_GT Wrote: I just redid my deck last year and I used Deck boards for the top rails ripped down to 3.5 inches wide to match the width of the 4x4 post. I then ran the cut edge through the router table to round over the edges. Looks great. 

Pressure treated deck boards are soaking wet all the way through when you get them so there is no difference between the inside and outside in my opinion.
Soaking wet and heavy.
Big Grin
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#27
(03-29-2020, 07:46 PM)mike4244 Wrote: Go ahead and rip the 1x6, I've ripped pressure treated often, mainly for fence pickets . 
mike

Thanks, nice to hear from someone who's done it before.

As to the 1", yeah, you can get PT 1" stock. Not easy to find, but it can be done.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#28
(03-29-2020, 10:35 PM)srv52761 Wrote: I have ripped 1x6 pickets for a fence.  They were not uniformly treated.

But it made no difference.  My last picket was only 3 1/2” wide.  But it looked out of place and was right next to the gate near the house.  You would notice it every time you entered the back yard.

So instead I took 5/8” out of the center of three pickets and reglued them with titebondIII.  Didn’t have to deal with trying to treat a cut edge.

Interesting. Held up well?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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