Contemplating different bench tops...

[JohnnyEgo]

I built the majority of my bench out of 2x4s and sheet goods 20 years ago, and 'refurbished' it with a coat of paint and some doors about three years ago. Because I am also in the 'beat-the-s#@*' out of it camp, my primary feature is that the top layer is 1/4" Masonite that I can write on, spill nasty chemicals on, or screw fixtures into it directly, and then chuck it when it gets too nasty.


I also thought about replacing the top with something more traditional, but I really liked the sacrificial top. Since I bought a Parfit jig last year to modify the cheap but awesome Home Depot adjustable work bench, it is relatively easy for me to poke 20mm grid holes in everything. A sheet of 5'x5' Baltic Birch yields four 30"x20" MFT-style tops, which I use for all sorts of things. I have some mounted on Dewalt Miter brackets, and use others to break down sheet goods. And I use one as a bench-hook MFT on my regular bench.



Most of the time, I just pop it on my bench, and use two Precision-Rail dogs clamped to my vise to secure it. Most of the Festool compatible dogs work just fine like that, with the exception of the Kreg clamps and the Festool bar clamps, both of which require under-table access to secure. The plane stops are also just a little too long to use directly on the bench. When I do need to do something that requires more clamping or the plane stops, I just set the board on two jointed strips about 2" in height. Gives me enough space for the Festool clamping knobs.



If I need a little extra security, I clamp the back of the bench hook to the back of the bench with one or two of the Festool clamps. This has proven more than solid enough for aggressive planing and whaling on mortise chisels with a hammer.



I did this as a provisional stop while rethinking my workbench top, and it ended up working so well for my needs that I decided not to poke holes in my bench at all. And it was cheap. Just wanted to give you a possible alternative to spending a bunch of money on a new top if you are going to go with Festool-depth bench accessories.

[Mr Eddie]

Here's a link to a MFT/Kreg table I built.  It's easy to clamp to and I use it all the time.  Size is 32" x 52".

https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7347423

[Lumber Yard®]

Thanks for the responses... the posts have given me some direction. I'm going to go with a DIY MFT style benchtop with a hardwood framework to set on the existing cabinet. Again, I appreciate the input.

[Splinter Puller]

My main table is a 48" X 48" flat surface.  It's made of two layers of 3/4" particle board topped by plastic laminate, and edge-wrapped on walnut.  I have two others:  

  - a 30 x 66 repurposed high school woodshop table which is hard maple (given to me by my BIL and has all of the high school "patina")

  - a Sjoberg's table top I bought off of Craigslist 12 years ago.

I just beat my bench tops up so much that I have never seriously considered a "high class" bench top like hard maple or a specialized top like the Festool MFT.  My big table serves as the out-feed from my table saw.  On any given day it will have varied activities taking place on it, like sharpening mower blades, staining and finishing projects (with varying degrees of protection), small engine repair, whatever.

I am the same.   My main bench is over 25 years old and is a sandwhich of 3 layers of 3/4" particle board with 1/4" hard board glued on top and bottom.  The hardboard top has been surfaced down to 1/8" over the years.   I've accidentaly cut chunks out of it, drilled into it and even screwed into it many times.   Just route in a dutchman patch, glue in a dowel etc to repair.  Every few years run a belt sander over the surface and give it a new coat of varnish.

My bench is a tool that gets used and sees work, not a show piece of furniture.

My assembly table surface is waxed MDF.  This also makes a great surface.

[Cooler]

I mounted my table top (drilled like a Festool MFT) on a frame of 2" x 4" lumber.  The top is flush to the 2" x 4" frame.  It allows me to clamp pieces vertically onto the 2" x 4" frame.  Useful for edge banding and other applications.

[paul2004]

I used a hardwood top from menards. I used a CNC to make 3/4" holes. I prefer the 3/4" hole size since it gives more options.. example, you can often find armor tool clamps on ebay under "craftsman peg clamp".. Sears used to sell a plastic folding workbench with 3/4 inch holes and they had armor tool supply the clamps and relabeled them as Craftsman. The holddown can be adapted to MFT holes, but you have to buy a separate peg. Also, lee valley has a kit that puts a 3/4" post on to a Kreg bench clamp.. no need to screw it down from the bottom like some festool metric adapters.. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/too...own-clamps .. then of course, all the normal 3/4" bench stuff.

I am actually considering redoing my CNC spoil board to use 3/4" dog holes instead of T-track, due to the fact I have a lot of 3/4" clamps and T-track is a dust trap.

One last comment. I made my 3/4" holes on the CNC with a 1/2" bit. It's tough to make a perfect circle on the CNC as you know. So I would recommend getting a 3/4" end mill (or spiral up bit) and using that instead. My holes are still usable, I just needed to pound the holdfast in hard with a hammer the first time.. that opened up the hole enough to make subsequent uses easy.

[Cooler]

I used a hardwood top from menards. I used a CNC to make 3/4" holes. I prefer the 3/4" hole size since it gives more options.. example, you can often find armor tool clamps on ebay under "craftsman peg clamp".. Sears used to sell a plastic folding workbench with 3/4 inch holes and they had armor tool supply the clamps and relabeled them as Craftsman.  The holddown can be adapted to MFT holes, but you have to buy a separate peg. Also, lee valley has a  kit that puts a 3/4" post on to a Kreg bench clamp.. no need to screw it down from the bottom like some festool metric adapters.. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/too...own-clamps  .. then of course, all the normal 3/4" bench stuff.

I am actually considering redoing my CNC spoil board to use 3/4" dog holes instead of T-track, due to the fact I have a lot of 3/4" clamps and T-track is a dust trap.

One last comment. I made my 3/4" holes on the CNC with a 1/2" bit. It's tough to make a perfect circle on the CNC as you know. So I would recommend getting a 3/4" end mill (or spiral up bit) and using that instead. My holes are still usable, I just needed to pound the holdfast in hard with a hammer the first time.. that opened up the hole enough to make subsequent uses easy.

You will probably get tear out with either an upbit or downbit.  A backer board will prevent that.  I did use a backer board but afterwards wondered why I had.  Who cares if there is tear out on the bottom.  It is not seen and it does not affect functionality. 

We have a CNC milling machine in our factory.  We do not have problems making round holes.  (Of course they are milling steel and not plywood or MDF.)

[Lumber Yard®]

I won't have any issues making the holes in mdf using my CNC even with a smaller diameter bit... I'll probably use a 1/4" end mill. I'll make a couple trial holes on scrap to dial in the actual diameter needed for my 3/4" bench accessories. I'm finalizing my design and will begin making the top in the next couple days. Thanks again for the thoughts and ideas it's helped bring clarity to my design.

[paul2004]

You will probably get tear out with either an upbit or downbit.  A backer board will prevent that.  I did use a backer board but afterwards wondered why I had.  Who cares if there is tear out on the bottom.  It is not seen and it does not affect functionality. 

We have a CNC milling machine in our factory.  We do not have problems making round holes.  (Of course they are milling steel and not plywood or MDF.)

I have a hobbyist grade CNC. I am sure yours is better than mine.. My hole was only off round a few thousands, not a huge deal, I am sure your factory CNC is a lot higher quality.

[Cooler]

There are a bunch of online plans for these with modifications on the hole patterns.  Here is the search:
https://www.google.com/search?client=fir...+top+plans

  I don't know if they are better or worse.  Here is one.