Wooden jointers

[med-one]

They make good kindling too.

[barryvabeach]

The plane in the middle photo looks rough, the one in the last photo looks pretty nice.  I agree with Adam, keep them long,  if you don't want them sell them, use the money to buy some stock to make a Krenov plane.

[adamcherubini]

The planes that are all checked wouldn’t make good stock for another plane. Fundamentally, you need a good plane to donate stock for a new plane.

I see 2 or 3 good planes, possibly harvesting some totes. The planes that are in really bad shape I’d cut wedges out of. You sorta want your wedges to match the age, dryness of the stock ( and quartersawn like the stock).

With whatever you have leftover, and this is for everyone, see if you can take the worst looking plane, and turn it into a usable tool. I have a jack plane that is really ugly. I didn’t intend to enter it in an ugly plane competition, but it might win. It is a top performer, sharp, light, frictionless wood hogger. In the past I’ve used it as an example of just how simple and basic an effective tool can be. Point is, it doesn’t need a bronze sole, machined to aerospace tolerances, to satisfyingly remove wood. The process of turning a plane that looks like firewood into a tool that works is super instructive. You’ll never look at planes the same way again. I think using planes like that also makes you a better woodworker.

[nodima]

The planes that are all checked wouldn’t make good stock for another plane. Fundamentally, you need a good plane to donate stock for a new plane.

I see 2 or 3 good planes, possibly harvesting some totes. The planes that are in really bad shape I’d cut wedges out of. You sorta want your wedges to match the age, dryness of the stock ( and quartersawn like the stock).

With whatever you have leftover, and this is for everyone, see if you can take the worst looking plane, and turn it into a usable tool. I have a jack plane that is really ugly. I didn’t intend to enter it in an ugly plane competition, but it might win. It is a top performer, sharp, light, frictionless wood hogger. In the past I’ve used it as an example of just how simple and basic an effective tool can be. Point is, it doesn’t need a bronze sole, machined to aerospace tolerances, to satisfyingly remove wood. The process of turning a plane that looks like firewood into a tool that works is super instructive. You’ll never look at planes the same way again. I think using planes like that also makes you a better woodworker.

Thanks - I've enjoyed this thread, and will set those planes aside to keep for now.  Will have to add them to the queue of stuff to do. 

That said, perhaps one of the hesitations I've had towards using them is using them.  With the metal planes it is pretty obvious how to grip them, but with these, it seems different.  Assuming that the right hand is on the tote, but the left hand is in what seems to be an awkward position out front.

[bandit571]

usual grip?   Fingers go over the right side, thumb down the left side....palm kind of arched over the center of the plane......or..you CAN add a knob out front like on the transitional planes had...left elbow is held up higher than a metal plane would use.....stance is a bit different, too......you are using the right leg to push you and the plane along...and you are standing  more or less right beside the plane, instead of behind it.    Left leg provides the balance.....

[adamcherubini]

This is one of many things prefer about wooden planes. There are many ways to grip them. This is important when spending a day with one. You will figure it out to be sure. Here are a few things to think about:

1) To be successful with any plane, you need to be able to control the pressure down against the stock. Sometimes you need more, sometimes less is better depending on the material and where you are in the cut. So tip number 1, make sure your work bench isn't too high. I prefer to have most of my upper body over my plane. My triceps simply aren't strong enough to push down on a plane all day long.

2) Holding a tote in the usual manner, puts your wrist behind the plane, forearm parallel to the bench. But if you are working from above, I find my right hand rests more on top of the plane than behind it. I hook my thumb around the base of the tote, hand exactly as Bandit described (really both hands). If the effort of pushing a plane is so much that you need to get behind it, something may be wrong. Reduce the depth of cut, get a plane with a rounded iron, wax your sole etc. Smoothing is sometimes the exception for me in this. Tip #2 - ensure you have the right tool for the job, the iron is sharp, and if it feels hard, you are doing something wrong.

3) For a lot of jobs, the down force applied to the plane, changes depending on where you are on the stock. Your grip must accommodate that. I have been using a S#5C I bought for my kids for general carpentry. I like it. But I do find the way I have to hold it restrictive. Trick #3, keep control, but keep a light grip on your plane and see if you can control it one handed with either hand. I can and frequently do. I think its important. Hard with a round knob in front. Also note the design change from low knob (easily held from above) to tall knob (a secondary push location). I think the low knob was better (for me).

I've never used a Japanese plane and I'm not sure how they are used. But I could definitely see having a plane that is nothing more than a square block of wood with an iron sticking out. I've experimented with early western planes and I found them perfectly fine to use. Round over the back corner and be done.

Tip #4- there is a HUGE difference between smooth planing something that was machined, and using planes for stock thicknessing for cabinet sized projects etc. If you spend a day in a shop like mine, you leave with a completely different idea of what you want for planes, how a workbench works, vises and planing stops etc. For many years, I wondered why I had such a different answer on my test paper when it came to planes and workbenches and saws. No criticism or snarkiness: - I later found the difference was the work I was doing was not the same as other people. So my tip here is, let the work tell you. Forget about what I think or say. Hope this helps.

[Tony Z]

Patrick Leach's comment was about transitional planes should be used for kindling - until at a tool sale when I tried to buy a transitional from him at fire wood price!

[Admiral]

Patrick Leach's comment was about transitional planes should be used for kindling - until at a tool sale when I tried to buy a transitional from him at fire wood price!

HA!  yeah, he talks a good game when trashing transitional planes in print, but, he doesn't walk the walk.

[Tony Z]

HA!  yeah, he talks a good game when trashing transitional planes in print, but, he doesn't walk the walk.

Great guy after you get to know him. I've been purchasing collectable items from him for way more than a dozen years, never an issue.

[Scoony]

Patrick Leach's comment was about transitional planes should be used for kindling - until at a tool sale when I tried to buy a transitional from him at fire wood price!

He was set up at Woodworking in America the first year they had it up in Cincinnati. There was a Stanley 77 with an old price sticker on it. I had picked it up with a few other items. Showed him that sticker (low price) and he reluctantly agreed to that price. Probably the saving grace, was the handfull of other tools I was buying.