Workbench

[jteneyck]

A thick top is good for mass and, as I said before, if you use bench hooks it's pretty much a necessity.  Otherwise, only the front apron needs to be thick, and the back, too, but mostly for cosmetics unless you use it like Tom does, which is nice if you have 360 access.  Frank Clauz's design, is of this type.  I don't use bench hooks so the 2 or 2-1/2" center section is fine for my needs.  

I use my ugly Masonite topped workbench for 95% of what I do.  I only built the Euro style bench because it was a challenge, and because people think you're a real craftsman if you have one, even more so if you built it.  LOL.  I do use it for hand plane work because of the vices and because it's lower, so a more comfortable height for that type of work.  I don't often do hand cut dovetails, but I would use the Euro bench for that, too.  I wanted to get rid of it a couple of years ago for more space, and only kept it because my wife convinced me to.  

The ugly bench is better for my needs, and the Euro vice sits cluttered most of the time. The ugly bench is big, it's dead flat, and I can beat it up w/o worry.  I replace the Masonite when it's too ugly to look at, which isn't very often because I don't much mind.  I have a few dog holes in it and use bench dog stops and clamps when needed.  But, above all, it's a more comfortable working height for the majority of the things I do, and that's why I like it better.  Oh, and it took almost no time or skill to build, and I didn't have much 35 or more years ago when I built it!  2 x 4 base reinforced with plywood on the back and sides, a lab bench top that I flattened with a router sled, and a shelf underneath that holds most all my portable power tools.  I didn't even have a vice on it until a couple of years ago.  

If I could only have one bench, a comfortable working height for most of what I do would be the most important consideration.  After that, a top that's flat and stays that way, mass, a way to clamp boards against the side of the bench for edge planing, easy maintenance, a vise or two, and a few dog holes as needed.  

John

[Tapper]

Thanks for the additional comments and suggestions.

Beautiful job on that saber case, Andy! Your techniques were impressive; a nice blend of power and hand tools. I really like that technique of using the shim to clean out the sockets for those tails - nice tip.

Your bench is certainly robust and the SYP seems to have aged nicely. That 5" thick top has to be one of the sturdiest around.

I have a question for all of you. What is the best method of attaching the 4 legs to the top of a Roubo style bench? I've seen various methods used from actually letting in the angled sides of the top of the legs (thickness of the top) to using the M&T method. For simplicity I was thinking floating tenons, maybe 1/2" thick (router bit) and as wide as clearance would allow. If this method is used, the only problem I see is alignment. I suppose a router with a fence might work. Your thoughts?

Doug

[titanxt]

I used M&T to attach the top to the legs. It was not as hard as it seems. I inverted the top and the leg frame, traced around all four tenons, and removed much of the waster with a large forstner bit.

[tablesawtom]

Thanks for the additional comments and suggestions.

Beautiful job on that saber case, Andy! Your techniques were impressive; a nice blend of power and hand tools. I really like that technique of using the shim to clean out the sockets for those tails - nice tip.

Your bench is certainly robust and the SYP seems to have aged nicely. That 5" thick top has to be one of the sturdiest around.

I have a question for all of you. What is the best method of attaching the 4 legs to the top of a Roubo style bench? I've seen various methods used from actually letting in the angled sides of the top of the legs (thickness of the top) to using the M&T method. For simplicity I was thinking floating tenons, maybe 1/2" thick (router bit) and as wide as clearance would allow. If this method is used, the only problem I see is alignment. I suppose a router with a fence might work. Your thoughts?

Doug

I have a 12 inch wide sled I use for getting a straight edge on boards I get from a saw mill. I drill 2 one inch holes in the sled and where I drill them depends on the thickness of the bench leg and how far apart the legs are.

I tend to make my legs 3 inches thick by 4 inches wide. 4 (3/4) boards glued together is 3 inches and the four inch wide is because usually some part of the top is 4 inches. 3 inches I can square of in a table saw in one cut . 

since my leg is 3 inches I would drill my two holes 1 1/2 inches from the edge of the plywood, Screw some boards to the plywood. Actually you just made a drill jig. You want to drill a one inch hole in your front two legs. Position the drill jig on the underside of your top. I drill a litter deeper than one inch in both the leg and the top then put a one inch dowel  gut to 2 inches in length. and put them into the leg and then set the top on the dowels. and you are as solid as can be . I would put a chamfer on the towels. I use 1 inch diameter but 3/4 or even 1/2 will work.

I will try to get some pictures real soon.

[Stwood_]

Tom is the man (tablesawtom) on benches.

I wouldn't use SYP as it turns hard as a rock as it ages.
If I was to use pine, I would use SPF (spruce, pine, fur)

[tablesawtom]

I like to think that John ( jteneyck)  are on the same page. I have two assembly tables  with MDF tops I can work on and they can be hooked together and so on. Also have casters so can be moved around They tend to collect everything a flat surface can collect.

For the record, I am not a fan of the Roubo style bench, but if you (trapper) want to build one then that is exactly what you should build. I do have the plans for Bench Crafted's premier Roubo bench. You mentioned a coupe of different styles of vises I am not familiar with and if those are the vises you are going to use then I am all in. Just make sure you have the vises on hand so they can be planed into the build. 

I prefer a shoulder vise and a tail vise, Rob Cosman uses a shoulder vise and a wagon vise. My style of bench was influenced by Frank Klausz, Others prefer a leg vise  and wagon vise, and the Nickelson bench has no vises. Like John said a bench should have two or three things,  Mass and weight and be the right height.

I like scrapers and I just bought a Hock blade for my Stanley #80 scraper. I clamped  a piece of red oak down on my bench in between 2 dogs and  and took it for a spin. No muss no fuss just bang and went to work. That is what your bench should do. Your wood has to be down solid and it can't move if using a #80  or hand plane. I will say that I was cautious about spending about $28 for a scraper blade, But I really like it and it cuts better than the standard blade that came with it. 

I just love building woodworking work benches.

[jteneyck]

As I said earlier, my Euro bench is the one Frank Klausz (thanks for the correct spelling, Tom) had in FWW, Issue 53, but I modified it to eliminate the tool tray.  I found a photo of it at this link, along with a whole bunch of other info. worth looking at Doug.  

The top just sits on big dowels in the top crossmember of the leg assemblies.  It's not connected with lag bolts as I thought.  I guess the top is so heavy that nothing more is required, and I've never had reason to think it did. 

I changed the lower base several years ago to add a tool cabinet.  It adds even more mass.  I took this photo after I added the cabinet, probably the last time it has ever been (almost) clean.  This upgrade has stretchers both above and below the cabinet, which made it even more rigid than it already was.  The bench is a mongrel of woods.  The base is mostly cherry, cut from pallet base beams that I let dry for two years.  I paid $5 for each beam.  The main top is an old maple lab bench with some more cherry for the shoulder vise and end cap, and oak for the front apron and end vise.  I used what I could get at low cost.  No regrets.  The most expensive parts were the vise screws and metal dogs.  I'd never use metal dogs again, well, maybe brass.  Wooden ones make so much more sense and cost nothing to make.   



 A little while later I added a deadman.  The best upgrade possible for anyone planing edges of wide boards.  Wow, it was clean.  The plane cubby is perfect, IMO.  Easy access, safe parking.  



Tom has it right.  Build what you like, using whatever vises you have or like.  

John

[EdL]

Mine...24 x 75. Built pretty much to Chris's plans.
Works for me.

   

Ed

[Tapper]

Thanks again to all for the photos, comments and suggestions. Some really great benches here and a lot to think about.

Doug

[titanxt]

One thing to point out for my use, and this does not apply to everyone, just my opinion. One thing about a tail vice is it can limit using the end of the bench for cabinet carcasses and anything you want to place over the end of the bench and clamp. Numerous times I have slide large drawers and other similar shaped items over the end of the bench and having an tail vice crank there would have prevented it, or at least made it difficult.

Again, I gave installing a tail vice some serious thought, but I am glad, for my needs, that I did not install one. With a few other simple clamping options, I no longer need one.

One additional thought, I am not sure I could go back to using a bench that does not have legs that are flush with the edge of the top. I have clamped frames and other pieces to the leg to keep them from racking and to hold them a bit more securely. Not always necessary, but a great feature when you have it.