Accurate Edge Angles

[Ray Newman]

Prior to purchasing a Fe$tool track saw, I ripped/broke down plywood with a Porter-Cable trim saw and a shop fabricated jig. Worked well and this is what I learned:

--A sharp blade is very important and required. Bought a carbide blade and only used it for finished cuts -- no rough cuts.

--Cut the work oversized, then cut to final dimensions.

--Bevels were tricky and needed to sneak up on the "final" degree.

Even with a Fe$tool, I found it is easier to get the bevel right the first time on my table saw and feather boards. Have a feeling that what you are trying to do with a worm drive saw will be an exercise in frustration as the saw is just too big and bulky.

Any friends with a table saw?

[Cooler]

Chamfer bits (for a router) come in various angles.  If one of them works for you, then first rip a 90 degree cut and then go at it with a router.



There are also "canoe" router bits that mate at various angles:

[BobW]

I've been locked out of this forum for almost another year. So now I can get back to this thread/project. 
 

I'll skip pulling out my loud and and heavy table saw and go with your suggestion since a straight bit should be easy to find. (Or use my circular saw).

Making a straight edge should be no problem, but I still need to get that 10 degrees to tilt the router or saw. 


(I haven't yet found such a project online).

In fact, the project has gotten more complicated.

I've decided to go ahead and make alternate control panels for some full sized coin-operated arcade video games.

I can only assume that the best way to create these control panels is to make them the same way they were originally made and I was looking for advice before I got started.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257...Panel1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257...nel2-1.jpg

As you can see there are three main pieces glued together and then rounded and covered by some sort of thin laminate.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Let me get this straight...you were trying to figure out how to make a precision bevel cut using a worm drive Skilsaw, which is basically a framing tool, because you don't want to drag out your heavy and noisy table saw.  And now, a year later, you are still working on the same project and trying to figure it out.  So why were you locked out for a year?  And you said earlier in the thread that you were locked out before.  Maybe I'm missing something here!

[D_Harris]

Let me get this straight...you were trying to figure out how to make a precision bevel cut using a worm drive Skilsaw, which is basically a framing tool, because you don't want to drag out your heavy and noisy table saw.  And now, a year later, you are still working on the same project and trying to figure it out.  So why were you locked out for a year?  And you said earlier in the thread that you were locked out before.  Maybe I'm missing something here!

Yes. You're missing a lot.

I only asked about the accuracy I'd get using my Skil saw in the first post to determine if it was plausible. Subsequent responses seem to indicate that it is not.

I do have a Delta TS200ls table saw. But I now also have pesky neighbors who will complain at the slightest noises.

Perhaps there is a problem with my account. But it took 1/2 dozen e-mails over the last year just to get admin to respond to me once. He finally told me that he rarely check that account. (That's the "contact us" admin contact form link at the bottom left of this page).

Lastly, I never start a project until I'm sure all questions are answered. (So I don't get stuck before it's completion).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[Cooler]

Yes. You're missing a lot.

I only asked about the accuracy I'd get using my Skil saw in the first post to determine if it was plausible. Subsequent responses seem to indicate that it is not.

I do have a Delta TS200ls table saw. But I now also have pesky neighbors who will complain at the slightest noises.

Perhaps there is a problem with my account. But it took 1/2 dozen e-mails over the last year just to get admin to respond to me once. He finally told me that he rarely check that account. (That's the "contact us" admin contact form link at the bottom left of this page).

Lastly, I never start a project until I'm sure all questions are answered. (So I don't get stuck before it's completion).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Shoot the neighbors.  Or add some sound deadening materials to kill the noise.  If the noise is caused by the resonating of the saw's chassis, add Acoustimat to the flat surfaces of the chassis:  https://www.google.com/search?q=acoustim...e&ie=UTF-8

[D_Harris]

No, I can't shoot the neighbors because the noise would just give them something else to complain about.


I don't know Acoustimat would be enough on the floor. Nevertheless, I've been working on designing a custom jig for my router table, which seems to be my best option.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[Richard D.]

I wonder why you were "locked out" for a year? If it was for constantly asking strange questions and then never really using any of the advice offered....I understand.

[D_Harris]

I wonder why you were "locked out" for a year? If it was for constantly asking strange questions and then never really using any of the advice offered....I understand.

That made no sense whatsoever.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[Ray Newman]

What am I missing here?

 You said you did not want to use your table because it is too noisy and the neighbors will complain. So you are designing a jig for your router table.

What makes you think a router will be any quieter?

[Richard D.]

Lastly, I never start a project until I'm sure all questions are answered. (So I don't get stuck before it's completion).

So with all the questions you have asked here in the last two years.....You haven't started working on anything because you have more questions that can only be answered on Woodnet?

That makes no sense whatsoever.