Your preference for dadoes --TS or RAS?

[jteneyck]

Depending on circumstance I use which ever method is most accurate or convenient.   I use the RAS and Router more than the TS I think.  

As for rake, if a RAS is properly adjusted/maintained, there is no need for any special blades.   Until getting my 12" Delta Turret saw, I used the all same cutting tools on both the RAS and TS.

I've always thought my RAS is "properly adjusted/maintained" but I've experienced climb cuts while using it, not with a dado stack but several times with a crosscut blade.  Do you have any insights about what I might need to adjust to prevent it from happening?  


John

[stillgotten]

If you’re using an ATB grind blade it will climb, it really needs a TCG
Forrest ww1 makes two different ground blades an ATB and a TCG. I unwittingly bought the ATB blade first and the climb was absolutely horrendous in crosscut and forget about trying to rip anything.
I then bought the correct blade WW1 TCG and all is good in the Ras world for me now.
You cant get that blade just anywhere in that grind, Silver Mills saw blades is one place https://www.sliversmill.com/product_1319...or_Cu.html

[Stwood_]

I've always thought my RAS is "properly adjusted/maintained" but I've experienced climb cuts while using it, not with a dado stack but several times with a crosscut blade.  Do you have any insights about what I might need to adjust to prevent it from happening?  


John

What blade are you cross cutting with?

[jteneyck]

What blade are you cross cutting with?

Freud Ultimate Cutoff mostly:  Link

It's rated for use in a RAS, but it does have a ATB grind.  


I have used a TCG blade on it, too, but I can't remember if I ever had a climb cut when that was installed.  It would be easy enough to test out, though, as I still have that blade.   

John

[fredhargis]

John, if you switch that saw to a negative hook blade you'll have a lot less self feeding. One like the LU91 has the -5° hook, and it's long been my favorite in the RAS. Something makes me think your saw is an MBF, and the LU91 comes in an 8.5" size with is the cat's meow for that saw (if that's what yours is). Let me add this: The preferred less costly blade by the gurus at the Dewalt forum is the LU83...which is also a 10° hook angle. But the see the RAS as the only saw in the shop; that is, they want to rip cut as well as crosscut. The LU91 really sucks at ripping (but then I think the RAS kinda stinks at ripping as well). The most ballyhooed blade over there is the WW1, with a triple chip grind....and you pay for it.

[jteneyck]

John, if you switch that saw to a negative hook blade you'll have a lot less self feeding. One like the LU91 has the -5° hook, and it's long been my favorite in the RAS. Something makes me think your saw is an MBF, and the LU91 comes in an 8.5" size with is the cat's meow for that saw (if that's what yours is). Let me add this: The preferred less costly blade by the gurus at the Dewalt forum is the LU83...which is also a 10° hook angle. But the see the RAS as the only saw in the shop; that is, they want to rip cut as well as crosscut. The LU91 really sucks at ripping (but then I think the RAS kinda stinks at ripping as well). The most ballyhooed blade over there is the WW1, with a triple chip grind....and you pay for it.

Thanks Fred.  My RAS is a GWI; 10"; 1.5 HP.  Really nice old saw.  So, I was just down using it and inspected the blade only to see it's actually a TCG.  So I took it off and found it's a  LU98RO10  TCG, 5° hook.  The LU91 you recommended looks like maybe a better choice with the -5° hook, and it's actually rated for thicker stock.  But I may not have considered it before because it's a narrow kerf blade.  

But the LU98 I have on there now will definitely climb in shallow cuts when the angle of attach is highest, so I think I'll order a LU91.  Thanks very much for the recommendation.  I've always been very satisfied with Freud blades; this one is at least 20 years old and has been sharpened several times, with a lot of life left.  I'll put it to use on my TS.  

Your comment about the cost of the WW1 made me think about my own foray into a more expensive blade.  I bought a Popular Tools blade for cutting Melamine and crosscutting 4/4 hardwood.  The LU98 cuts cleaner in comparison on my RAS, but the Popular Tools blade is cleaner on my TS.  That blade costs at least 50% more than the Freud and for what little benefit it has on my TS I'll stick with Freud.  

John

[Stwood_]

I always used a negative hook when I had my RAS. Still had a slight *wanna climb*, but very little. Course I usually always stiff armed that saw. I used to cut a lot of construction pine with it and it would try and pinch the blade, so I was always ready for that to happen.

[jteneyck]

I always used a negative hook when I had my RAS. Still had a slight *wanna climb*, but very little. Course I usually always stiff armed that saw. I used to cut a lot of construction pine with it and it would try and pinch the blade, so I was always ready for that to happen.

Comparing the -5° hook LU91 again with the plus 5° LU98 I see now why I chose the later; it cuts well in a wider range of materials.  The LU91 is rated as excellent only in wood; the LU98 is at least good in plywood and Melamine, and excellent in wood.  Can't have it all, but I might look a bit further in hopes of finding it.  If anyone has any recommendations for a blade that crosscuts really well in wood and Melamine, that doesn't want to climb, I'm listening.  Thanks.

John

[fredhargis]

Apologies about the saw, mine is a 1030K, just a younger version of the GWI. The LU91 may not be rated for melamine, but it is a fantastic blade for plastic materials (makes me wonder about the melamine). A very large local plastics distributor (US Plastics) uses them exclusively for cutting sheet plastics to size. Best of luck on your search.

[Stwood_]

I still have my RAS blade. DML, I'll see if I can come up with a #