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(12-06-2017, 06:39 PM)Ray Newman Wrote: What am I missing here?
You said you did not want to use your table because it is too noisy and the neighbors will complain. So you are designing a jig for your router table.
What makes you think a router will be any quieter?
Because it is. My table saw is much louder.
Darren Harris
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(12-06-2017, 07:04 PM)Richard D. Wrote: So with all the questions you have asked here in the last two years.....You haven't started working on anything because you have more questions that can only be answered on Woodnet?
That makes no sense whatsoever.
"All the questions" I've ask in two years? How many would that be?
And I never said I haven't started working on anything. This thread is about a single complex project involving needed angles.
Darren Harris
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The table saw is a MUCH better option.
Also a table saw SHOULD be the quietest of the 3 (table saw, router, skill saw) as they usually use an induction motor instead of a universal motor and it runs at lower rpm. I do see that your table saw is one of the portable ones that uses an induction motor. This would be a good time to upgrade to a better table saw. (1. This project would be easier and have better results. 2. You would be less inhibited on future projects because of more precision and less noise.) A decent contractors saw is usually available on craigs list for less that $200 if you don't want to purchase new. (A new Delta or Rigid contractors saw run around $500)
That pic shows a more complex joint. The bottom piece would require 2 passes both at the 10 degrees. One for the edge, the 2nd cut to create the tongue. Not so easy with a skill saw. The vertical piece would require 1 pass at 10 degrees to make the mating slot. All easily doable with a decent table saw. Using just a butt joint it would not be nearly as strong and require additional strengthening, such as using biscuits.
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(12-08-2017, 09:41 AM)s9plus20 Wrote: The table saw is a MUCH better option.
Also a table saw SHOULD be the quietest of the 3 (table saw, router, skill saw) as they usually use an induction motor instead of a universal motor and it runs at lower rpm. I do see that your table saw is one of the portable ones that uses an induction motor. This would be a good time to upgrade to a better table saw. (1. This project would be easier and have better results. 2. You would be less inhibited on future projects because of more precision and less noise.) A decent contractors saw is usually available on craigs list for less that $200 if you don't want to purchase new. (A new Delta or Rigid contractors saw run around $500)
That pic shows a more complex joint. The bottom piece would require 2 passes both at the 10 degrees. One for the edge, the 2nd cut to create the tongue. Not so easy with a skill saw. The vertical piece would require 1 pass at 10 degrees to make the mating slot. All easily doable with a decent table saw. Using just a butt joint it would not be nearly as strong and require additional strengthening, such as using biscuits.
Perhaps my table saw just needs a deep cleaning.
It would seem to me easier to create a 1/4" wide 10 degree groove with a router as opposed to a 10" table saw blade.
Nevertheless, I've come of with a jig design that will allow it to be used on both the table saw and router table.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
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(07-17-2016, 07:50 PM)D_Harris Wrote: I'm working on some projects involving the need for slanted panels and was looking to hear about the experiences of others when it comes to getting the angles correct.
How accurate to, let us say, 10 degrees can I expect to get using my Skilsaw (worm gear) circular saw?
(I'm not even sure what the best way is to set the angle on the saw before beginning).
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
..............
Why more woodworkers don't get one of these is beyond me...accuracy way beyond what is usually needed for woodwork and cheap enough to boot....
http://www.wttool.com/index/page/product...gKUfPD_BwE
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