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(07-09-2018, 09:18 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Have you purposely tried to break one yet, by bending with a hammer.
more fuel on the fire... it depends on the screw. drywall screws are brittle and snap very easily if you whack them with a hammer. Screws that are sold as framing screws, yes I have tried to break them and while they break much more easily than nails they don't break nearly as easily as drywall screws. that being said, I prefer screws for construction, especially when not in shear load.
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(07-13-2018, 12:28 PM)crokett™ Wrote: more fuel on the fire... it depends on the screw. drywall screws are brittle and snap very easily if you whack them with a hammer. Screws that are sold as framing screws, yes I have tried to break them and while they break much more easily than nails they don't break nearly as easily as drywall screws. that being said, I prefer screws for construction, especially when not in shear load.
Yes, of course it depends upon the screw, just like it depends upon which nail. Concrete nails break as easily when bent as drywall screws. But they weren't developed for or intended to be used for framing, no more than drywall screws were. Use the right connector for the job and all is well.
So yesterday I was putting up sheathing on the walls of the shed. I had a devil of a time getting the sheets aligned parallel to the bottom rim joist on the first wall. I ended up taking them down, twice. Turns out one corner of the shed wasn't really plumb, off by maybe 1/4" over 8', which was more than enough to throw alignment of the sheathing all out of whack. Had I used nails to put up the sheathing I would have had a heck of a time getting them back off. Screws are good for hacks like me.
BTW, I corrected the out of plumb, after getting the sheathing off, by putting a 16' 2x4 up in the corner that had to be moved outward and screwing the other end to the floor. Then I leaned on the 2x4 and held it in place with a screw into a stud. Checked, adjusted a couple of times, and perfect. After that the sheathing went up perfectly. There's plumb, and then there's really plumb. I learned it needs to be really plumb to hang the sheathing w/o issues.
The more I do on this shed the more I'm learning that "rough" carpentry is not rough at all. An eighth here, a quarter there can have a really big and unfavorable impact.
John
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(07-13-2018, 01:36 PM)jteneyck Wrote: The more I do on this shed the more I'm learning that "rough" carpentry is not rough at all. An eighth here, a quarter there can have a really big and unfavorable impact.
John
The trick is to know when 1/4" is close enough and how to cover for it, if it isn't.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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(07-13-2018, 01:36 PM)jteneyck Wrote: The more I do on this shed the more I'm learning that "rough" carpentry is not rough at all. An eighth here, a quarter there can have a really big and unfavorable impact.
You're a cabinet/furniture maker. You would have been fired from the framing crew on day 1.
I have the same issue. A carpenter I would work with on occasion would always be biotching at me.... "It ain't Bookwalters and it ain't kitchen cabinets!" Measurements were done in 1/8" increments + big or small... which is basically a 1/16" over or under an 1/8".
Mark
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(07-13-2018, 12:28 PM)crokett™ Wrote: more fuel on the fire... it depends on the screw.
What fire.
Screws....yes.....I'm aware of the drywall screw breakage. I've used screws for years.
I buy them by the case.
Steve
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WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(07-13-2018, 01:36 PM)jteneyck Wrote: So yesterday I was putting up sheathing on the walls of the shed. I had a devil of a time getting the sheets aligned parallel to the bottom rim joist on the first wall. I ended up taking them down, twice. Turns out one corner of the shed wasn't really plumb, off by maybe 1/4" over 8', which was more than enough to throw alignment of the sheathing all out of whack. Had I used nails to put up the sheathing I would have had a heck of a time getting them back off. Screws are good for hacks like me.
It's best to leave all wall bracing on, even with the walls tied together, until the last brace gets in the way. It all stays plumb while you are installing the sheeting, and especially when 50mph winds hit.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(07-13-2018, 02:17 PM)CLETUS Wrote: You're a cabinet/furniture maker. You would have been fired from the framing crew on day 1.
I have the same issue. A carpenter I would work with on occasion would always be biotching at me.... "It ain't Bookwalters and it ain't kitchen cabinets!" Measurements were done in 1/8" increments + big or small... which is basically a 1/16" over or under an 1/8".
You're absolutely right, I wouldn't last a day on a framing crew. Nor in a cabinet shop. Nor most any other job where making rate is key to earning a living. I work hard; I'm just too much of a perfectionist to crank out volume. Fortunately, I got paid to be a perfectionist in my engineering days. Now I work for me, for free.
John
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(07-13-2018, 02:58 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: It's best to leave all wall bracing on, even with the walls tied together, until the last brace gets in the way. It all stays plumb while you are installing the sheeting, and especially when 50mph winds hit.
Actually, the bracing was still on. Too bad the wall wasn't perfectly plumb when I put it on.
John
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Oops, well stuff happens.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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the wall is now plumb, but is it square?
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