Remote for 3HP Dust Collector

[fredhargis]

I'm not sure, but that is why you keep a spare remote switch on hand (just change them out). I'm thinking, but do not know, that you actually could a hard wire a circuit to the contactor in addition to the leads from the remote. That circuit would be one a light switch and just wired to the same connectors. If it happened that they were both (remote and switch) turned on I don't believe (but do not know) that it would hurt the coil. I'm thinking it will only draw the current it needs and won't overload....maybe one of the sparkies could chip in on this(?).

Edit in: Dom, I just had 2 more thoughts on this. First look at the receiver that came with your remote, it may have a manual on/off switch on it....some do, some don't. Otherwise, if it's worse case, you could just unplug the lamp cord (coil) from the receiver and plug it into an outlet.


Hank, the gate sequencing you described is what I do, even though I have a remote. I turn it on, and simply move between the gates as needed. In my case, I don't have to worry about which gate I move first. I can close them all (the DC is still running) and open the one I need.

[Rick_B]

Hank Knight in SC said:

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Rick, you are right, opening and closing a blast gate turns the cyclone on and off. If I'm performing one operation, that's what happens. But if I'm switching between two or more machines, I use a different sequence: I open the blast gate for the first operation. When I' done, I leave it open and move to the next machine where I open the second blast gate. The cyclone continues to run. I can either leave the first gate open (my 5hp Clear Vue has plenty of suck for two machines in my small shop); or I can go back and close the first gate to direct all the suction to the second machine. In either case, the cyclone continues to run between operations. The switches are wired parallel, so as long as there is at least one closed magnetic switch in the circuit, the cyclone motor is on. This is no different from using a remote to control the cyclone, but it is different from using machine motor sensors to control the cyclone. I guess you could leave the machine running when you switch operations, but that doesn't strike me as a good practice.
Hope that makes sense.

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Thanks Hank - makes perfect sense

[Guest]

fredhargis said:

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Hank, the gate sequencing you described is what I do, even though I have a remote. I turn it on, and simply move between the gates as needed. In my case, I don't have to worry about which gate I move first. I can close them all (the DC is still running) and open the one I need.

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Fred,
I realized after I posted that the off-on function is the same with a remote because you're controlling the cyclone separately from the woodworking machine. I was focused on the reason I decided against machine sensor switches and went with blast gate switches. I made a big deal out of a feature that is common with both remote control and blast gate switch systems. Not a big deal.
Hank

[Alan in little Washington]

Arguably the best approach is to let the machines control the blast gates (which can be electro-pneumatically or electro-magnetically actuated), and secondarily the DC. That removes the problem with remotes (misplacing), operating the blast gates (manually opening the new one before closing the previous one which can be a pain if the machines are widely separated), and ensures optimum performance (DC only sucks from one machine, the one that is on, though more are possible), etc.

[Blacky's Boy]

OK, I got all the components together




I'm one of those people that likes to work from a plan. Especially when it involves something that I'm doing for the first time. I find it easier to try and think things out first and have you're ducks in a row before you start.

If I've interpreted all of the comments correctly then this should be the way that the wiring should be laid out inside the enclosure.



Yeah, I know the symbols are probably wrong. But it's meant as a wiring diagram and not a true schematic. I just want to make sure that I'm attaching the right wires to the correct terminals.

If one of you Sparkies could look at this and tell me if I got it right I will proceed.

[Cian]

Very

[fredhargis]

Not a sparkie, but darn! you're good! Timely, I was just getting ready to look for this post to see how things were going. Does your lamp cord have a ground (?), that part maybe unneeded. But if it's there, no problem with using it.

[Foghorn]

Rick_B said:

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[blockquote]Hank Knight in SC said:

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Rick, you are right, opening and closing a blast gate turns the cyclone on and off. If I'm performing one operation, that's what happens. But if I'm switching between two or more machines, I use a different sequence: I open the blast gate for the first operation. When I' done, I leave it open and move to the next machine where I open the second blast gate. The cyclone continues to run. I can either leave the first gate open (my 5hp Clear Vue has plenty of suck for two machines in my small shop); or I can go back and close the first gate to direct all the suction to the second machine. In either case, the cyclone continues to run between operations. The switches are wired parallel, so as long as there is at least one closed magnetic switch in the circuit, the cyclone motor is on. This is no different from using a remote to control the cyclone, but it is different from using machine motor sensors to control the cyclone. I guess you could leave the machine running when you switch operations, but that doesn't strike me as a good practice.
Hope that makes sense.

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Thanks Hank - makes perfect sense

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[/blockquote]


Another method of being able to open/close blast gates and leave the dust collector on would be to use a contractor with a 24 volt coil, wiring in a step down transformer for power, and then use 3way and 4 way switches so you have a switch at each machine to turn the dust collector off/on. (think of a light controlled at three locations ( 2-3way switches and one 4-way).

[Blacky's Boy]

fredhargis said:

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Not a sparkie, but darn! you're good!

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Thanks! I've been working with AutoCad for so long that stuff like this is second nature to me.

fredhargis said:

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Timely, I was just getting ready to look for this post to see how things were going. Does your lamp cord have a ground (?), that part maybe unneeded. But if it's there, no problem with using it.

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Funny you should ask about the "lamp" cord. The power cord I bought was #14-3 conductor (14-3 SJOOW). According to the Specs it's good for 20 amps. I got 10 feet of it and figured that I'd use a bit for the internal connections (inside the enclosure) and for the 220V as well as the 120 V line. The grounds would all be tied together at a grounding lug on the enclosure.

I was worried that I was wiring the contactor backwards or something like that (Trust me if there is the remotest possibility that it can be wired backwards, I'll find a way). There were no schematics included and Packard web site has little or no information on these. Do I have the connections right?

[fredhargis]

Two things: the 240V connections are fine. So are the 120V, if there's connectors on each. So it looks great. If you want to test your set up, wire the lamp cord (or whatever) to the coil, and then trigger it with your remote (before any 240V wires are connected). You should hear it click, and again when you turn the remote off. While the coil is closed, if you touch the 240V terminals with an OHM meter (W to W, or B to B), you will see them continuous, and obviously not when you switch the coil off. What did you decide about the manual switch you wanted?