Yet another belt sharpener...

[Timberwolf]

Chris, one thing that hasn't been mentioned....The bell-crank {pivot arm} works much better if a plastic "spacer" is placed between it and the main assembly...I used a piece of one of those thin kitchen counter protectors {Used for slicing veggies}..Metal particles and grinding dust can get between the arm and main body, causing friction, and the thin plastic spacer eliminates the problem. You can cut the plastic with a pr. of scissors...Just make it like a washer.

[doobes]

Timberwolf said:

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Chris, one thing that hasn't been mentioned....The bell-crank {pivot arm} works much better if a plastic "spacer" is placed between it and the main assembly...I used a piece of one of those thin kitchen counter protectors {Used for slicing veggies}..Metal particles and grinding dust can get between the arm and main body, causing friction, and the thin plastic spacer eliminates the problem. You can cut the plastic with a pr. of scissors...Just make it like a washer.

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Roger that, Jack.

I'll make the shoulder screw a little longer and add two plastic washers.

Cheers

[CLETUS]

Very nice.


I printed it off, I'll sit down this weekend and go over everything.

[CLETUS]

One small issue. On sheet 1 of 1 the 1 3/4" hole from the right should be 5/16" diameter.

I decided to build another one and work off of the prints.

Is 5/16" the standard clearance for a 1/4" bolt in your work? I've never used that much clearance. I don't see any issues, just wondering.

[CLETUS]

Just realized they are all page 1 of 1.

[CLETUS]

I'm going to suggest changing all of the clearance holes to 9/32 and the tapped hols to a #7 drill. 3/16 is too tight for hand tapping.

On base angle 2, change the hole at 1 3/4" to 5/16" or (9/32).

On the pivot arm, add 4 1/2" for the total length of the arm.

On the platen, change the slotted hole location to 1 1/2.…. Then it will be centered.

[CLETUS]

Alright, I built this superstructure off of doobes prints except for the changes noted above. All that you need to supply is the idler, drive wheel, motor and base.


I will ship this at my expense if someone wants to make a donation to the Christmas fund. If more than one is interested I'll draw names.

[doobes]

CLETUS said:

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I'm going to suggest changing all of the clearance holes to 9/32 and the tapped hols to a #7 drill. 3/16 is too tight for hand tapping.

On base angle 2, change the hole at 1 3/4" to 5/16" or (9/32).

On the pivot arm, add 4 1/2" for the total length of the arm.

On the platen, change the slotted hole location to 1 1/2.…. Then it will be centered.

---

Thanks Mark,

I'll tweak the drawings.

cheers,

[Steve Friedman]

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I'd piggy back onto this one.

I never thought I would try to make one of these, but I just finished putting scales on a couple of knives and loved the experience. I have a 1 x 42 belt sander/grinder (the one from LV), but found myself constantly imagining how much easier it would be to have the belt be 2" wide. So, I'm thinking about it. How much beefier do you think this would have to be to support a 2" wide belt? How big of a motor?

Also, I have no metalworking experience, so this may sound stupid, but is there any special kind of steel you would use to make one of these? Any suggestions for suppliers?

Thanks,

Steve

[CLETUS]

I'm sure Jack will chime in, but I don't see a need to "beef" it up for a 2" belt.

I'd build it out of aluminum, it is easily machined by whatever tools you already have.