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#11
I have a POS Ryobi mini lathe. I have a 4 prong drive center, but it's missing the pointy doodad is the center. Can they be replaced or should I just buy a new drive center?
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$
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#12
I doubt you'll find a center point. Buy a new drive center.
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#13
I'd buy new.  And I prefer two-prong centers.  I find that they bite deeper.
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#14
(12-24-2016, 06:49 AM)badwhiskey Wrote: I'd buy new.  And I prefer two-prong centers.  I find that they bite deeper.

Because you don't have to make a 90 degree saw kerf.  Just kerf across center on the bandsaw and set in place.  If you hit it with a mallet, might split!
Upset
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#15
I always use a steb center. Mark center with an awl.

 Example: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/107...ive-Center
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#16
Given the point came out, I assume there is a set screw to hold it in place.  My <10 cents solution.
I would just take it to the hardware store and get a bolt that fits.  Cut off the head and lock it in.  Sharpen it to a point on the lathe with a file.
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#17
(12-24-2016, 09:06 AM)hairy Wrote: I always use a steb center. Mark center with an awl.

 Example: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/107...ive-Center

I really really like my stub center but got mine from PSI and much cheaper

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTSS21.html

or

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTSS22.html

However I do not know if yours in a MT1 or MT2

(12-24-2016, 01:35 PM)NCPaladin Wrote: Given the point came out, I assume there is a set screw to hold it in place.  My <10 cents solution.
I would just take it to the hardware store and get a bolt that fits.  Cut off the head and lock it in.  Sharpen it to a point on the lathe with a file.

or you can do as Paladin said.
Yes
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#18
Mine is a 1MT. The body doesn't have a set screw, just a hole that apparently accepts a pin? At any rate, I like the one linked to. For a new like me, should I get the 5/8" or the 1"?
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$
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#19
(12-24-2016, 09:06 AM)hairy Wrote: I always use a steb center. Mark center with an awl.

 Example: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/107...ive-Center

Steb centers are for easy dismounts, spur centers are to hold the piece in place.  I don't like Steb canters or 60 degree points rather than cup centers, which skid out.  Too many kids launching too many pieces in school.  HOLD the piece, swing the tool.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#20
(12-24-2016, 09:12 PM)DaveParkis Wrote: Mine is a 1MT. The body doesn't have a set screw, just a hole that apparently accepts a pin? At any rate, I like the one linked to. For a new like me, should I get the 5/8" or the 1"?

For your size lathe, I would go with the 5/8" steb. The PSI is decent and the Woodcraft Woodriver one is as well.

The 1" is a bit large if you are doing tool handles.

After a few years of use, I got lucky last week and noticed that the set screw in my 5/8" steb live center had backed off enough to let the center slip out. As I said, I was lucky and caught it before it came all the way out. I was able to use the handle of one of the T-wrenches to push it back in and snug down the set screw into the flat recess on the pin.

My one objection with the stebs is that the spring can be too strong for thinner spindles.

I remember hearing that one brand of them has adjustable spring tension but I do not think that I have used one with that feature.

If you are considering learning to use a skew, a drive center that can slip when you get a catch can really help your learning curve.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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