pricing out a shed. DIY vs kit

[thedutchtouch]

looking to put a 10x14 shed in my yard this spring (150 sq feet is the biggest i can have without a permit and 14' seems to be easier materials wise than 15'). i also found a concrete pad partially buried under some of the grass so... thinking about putting the treated 4x4 base right on that so no concrete blocks/gravel/whatever needed.

i've pretty much decided on a wood, gambrel roof shed, and from what i can find, kits from the big box stores are in the range of 3k (2500+ for a 12x12 that doesn't come with paint and shingles similar to this one: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Heartland-Estat...ft/3602258 ).  I've planned one out and using lumber costs from the big boxes, i'm coming in around 1678. wanted to see if i'm missing anything,  i chose to design/ price out the front and back wall and the gambrel ends separately to make it easier

everything will be framed 16" OC with standard 2x4 studs

Back wall 10x7
Lumber count
(2) 9'5" (top and bottom plate- do top plates still need to be doubled on a shed?, if so 3 and the studs then become 6'7.5")
(9) 6'9" studs

Front wall 10x7 w/6'x6.5' door
(2) 18" bottom plates
(1) 9'6" top plate (same as above re: doubling)
(2) 6'3" (sandwich as header)
(2) 5'10.5" (trimmers)
(6) 6'9" (common studs and king studs)
1 stud for 16' centers over door (9" gap.. .are these cripplers?)
 
Side wall (2x)
(14) 6'9" studs
(2) 14' (same as above +1 if top plate doubled)

Lumber count:
(47) 8’ 2x4 @ 2.65 = $125
(4) 14’ 2x4 @ 6.75 = $27
(3) 10’ 2x4 @ 3.95 = $12
(12) 4x8 sheathing @ 18 = $216
$380 total for walls
 
 
gambrels (14) 2 8’ studs apiece, use sheathing scrap to connect joints
(2) 8’ studs for overhang (front and rear, 12" apiece) spacers
(3) 10’ studs for front/back wall gambrel "bottom plate" anc center stud,
(4) 8’ studs for gambrel wall nailers
(2) 8’ studs to be cut up for gambrel side wallplate spacers
Sum:
(22) 8’ 2x4 @ 2.65 = $59
(2) 10’ 2x4 @ 3.95 = $8
(4) 4x8 sheathing @ 18 = $72
Total for gambrels =$139
 
Shelf (4’, needs 1.25 sheets underlay and 4 10’ studs)
1 sheet @ $18 + scrap
(4) 10’ 2x4 @ 3.95 = $16
              Shelf total = $34
 
Roof:
(8) 4x8 sheathing @ 18=$144
1 roll tar paper = @ $19
8 bundles shingles= @ $30 = $240
              Roof total = $403
 
Floor: (framing similar to wall just wider)
(4) treated 4x4x16 @ $20 = $40
(4) 2x4x14 @ $6.75 = $27
(14) 2x4x10 @ $4.20 =$59
              Floor total $126
 
Framing Nails $100
Roofing nails $ 50
Framing nailer $150
Paint- 2 gallon primer, 2 gallons latex paint @ $25 = $100 (or can i just do 5 gal paint and do two coats, skipping primer?)
 
TOTAL 14675, adding 15% for waste/misc, total cost should be 1700ish

i haven't factored in costs to build door yet, should be something on the order of 8 more studs, and can use the sheathing from the door cutout.

am i missing anything or did i screw up my math? i did some basic not to scale sketches in paint... is there a better program (not sketchup or autocad) to use for this?

thanks in advance for any help

forgot to add, i have a circular saw, jig saw, table saw, sawzall, chop/miter saw, small air compressor , so other than the framing nailer should be ok on tools

[K. L. McReynolds]

Top plates need to be doubled, bottom plates do not. Use precut studs(92&5/8" long). That gives you an 8' ceiling height and eliminates a lot of cutting. Buy 10 more boards than in the plan---you will need them or you can return them. California corners need an additional stud.

Forget the nailer/nails. Use deck screws. I built a 14' by 20' wood framed, T1-11 sided, metal roofed shed and only used nails to attach the rafters to the top plate---all the other fasteners were deck screws. I used a DeWalt cordless and a 120v B&D drill. You could buy an impact driver.

Make the door a double door.

Use 5/8" or 3/4" sheathing for the roof.

DO NOT skip primer!!! Use really good primer(I'd use BullsEye 123) and you can scrimp on the paint cost.

[thedutchtouch]

Top plates need to be doubled, bottom plates do not. Use precut studs(92&5/8" long). That gives you an 8' ceiling height and eliminates a lot of cutting. Buy 10 more boards than in the plan---you will need them or you can return them. California corners need an additional stud.

Forget the nailer/nails. Use deck screws. I built a 14' by 20' wood framed, T1-11 sided, metal roofed shed and only used nails to attach the rafters to the top plate---all the other fasteners were deck screws. I used a DeWalt cordless and a 120v B&D drill. You could buy an impact driver.

Make the door a double door.

Use 5/8" or 3/4" sheathing for the roof.

DO NOT skip primer!!! Use really good primer(I'd use BullsEye 123) and you can scrimp on the paint cost.

thanks for the reply, will plan to double the top plates for sure. my 15% addition was for  about 10 more studs and a sheet of sheathing, misc door hardware etc so that should work i think.

 I was planning on 7' side walls and cutting down studs because i'm a bit worried about overall height... though 13' isn't much different than 12'. you make a good point about all the extra work to save (lose?) a foot. probably doesn't make sense.

door will be a double door for sure, forgot to mention that, i was planning to use 5/8 all around for sheathing, and will not skip the primer (would be a pretty small cost "savings" anyway)

screws vs nails debate is something I expected, i was leaning nails for speed/ease of assembly, but do already own a few corded/ cordless screw guns so that likely makes more sense. is there any truth to the screws split more than a nailer theory?

and how about the roof overhang, am i wasting time/money?was thinking it's mostly aesthetic, but could have some slight weather benefits when raining as i intend to use the shed as storage and a mini workshop to get out of my 5'11" cellar (i'm 6'2" and tired of standing between the floor joists) which means the doors would be open

[Bob10]

I would have told you to build it yourself if you have the time but recently I took apart a Tough Shed and moved it to a friends house where we reassembled it.  I liked the metal door frame and floor structure.  Not sure what type pre made shed you are looking at but if you want it done in a day with a warranty there are premade units that are worth the money

[rudedan60]

I mentioned this in another post here.  Check out the Family Handy Man sheds on their site. If your 6'2" make your doors full size.  I have yet to find a store bought shed with a door tall enough for me at 6' 4". You asked about the roof overhang.  It helps keep the weather off of things.  I keep my wheel barrel hung on the side of the shed.  I wish I had made it a little wider.  Made mine with 1' overhang. Dan

[daddo]

Think about strapping it down to the concrete slab- if you get those high winds we get and the occasional tornado.

[mdhills]

...
screws vs nails debate is something I expected, i was leaning nails for speed/ease of assembly, but do already own a few corded/ cordless screw guns so that likely makes more sense. is there any truth to the screws split more than a nailer theory?

and how about the roof overhang, am i wasting time/money?was thinking it's mostly aesthetic, but could have some slight weather benefits when raining as i intend to use the shed as storage and a mini workshop to get out of my 5'11" cellar (i'm 6'2" and tired of standing between the floor joists) which means the doors would be open

*wince* on the thought of the -2" clearance in your current workshop!

A few tidbits:

• give thought to ventilation+light in your structure, whether for storage or workshopping
  
• If using as shop, will you want insulation?  (floor/roof/walls?)
  
• if you want this for more than a couple of years, I would recommend managing the water at the edge of the roof -- some sort of drip edge and fascia at a mimimum.  Eaves help keep the water away from the rest of the structure, too.
  
• I used SmartSide siding for our chicken coop.  It has held up well for last 8 years (and came pre-primed)
  
• is your concrete slab level?  any concerns with drainage?
  

[bennybmn]

I halped a friend build one a few years ago. Actually drew it up in CAD so we could get a lumber count. He used that special plywood siding, T-11 I think it's called? Worked out great. He also built himself a little window out of plexiglass. I'm not sure how well that's held up but I can ask him. I also suggested he do some kind of window on the south wall for light. My old condo had one of those solar tubes in the bathroom. It really lit up the place well. One of the lenses thru the roof or gable end would be a nice light source without taking up much room...

Only thing cost-wise I can see missing is door hardware, good hinges, latch, seal? etc. But it shouldn't be too much, 50 bucks maybe?

[Steve Friedman]

This may seem obvious, but I suggest you get the lumber from a lumber yard.  When I built my shed last year, I found the prices competitive with the bog box stores, and most were willing to deliver for free.

Otherwise, build pictures would be great.

Good luck

Steve

[Cooler]

The  Amish seem to have a lock on sheds in our area.  They seem to sell more than Home Depot and Lowes.

I would get a comparison price from them.  The sheds arrive assembled.

https://www.amishshedsmaryland.com/


Amish Structures

1358 Marlboro Road
Lothian, MD 20711 
Phone: (410) 741-0507