Ripping

[Francis Stillman]

Hi all. First post here, new to the site.
Was wondering if anyone has ripped a board to make the edges parallel by using the 3M Command strips to temporarily glue a straight edge to the board that needs straightening? Seems better than nails or screws and won't leave a mess. Any thoughts or reasons to think it might be unsafe?

Cheers,
FS

[Paul K. Murphy]

I don't like the idea. I don't despise it either, I keep arrows like this in my quiver and use them when I must.
I'd find a way to do my work without taping or otherwise directly securing any workpiece directly. Clamps and wedges seem best to me. When I know I need to positively secure a workpiece, I resort to nails or screws.
*Directly securing isn't the best phrase to use. I'm not sure what term would be. It seems to me that gluing, taping or securing wood with Velcro might be described that way. Nailing and screwing I would also describe that way. What I mean is that if I believe I want that stock secure, I don't want anything as tenuous as adhesive. If I'm concerned that something might release in the middle of the ripping process (or whatever else) I want that thing like Gibraltar.

[Admiral]

There is the risk of the board coming loose, which is not safe.  Better option for securing is as noted screws, or if you don't want to mar the surfaces, build a jig with toggle clamps, like these, that will hold the work securely.  Essentially, a board that rides against your TS fence with the toggle clamps holding the workpiece to it.  A board coming loose during a rip is something you don't want to experience, trust me.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...at=51&ap=1

[JGrout]

seems like a lot of wasted command strips that are not cheap 

consider something like this instead 



This is my long one ( will do a 10' board) all you need is one that is about a foot longer than the longest stock you intend to straightline. You can use plywood or a piece of solid stock  then you just screw the stop on the lead end and put a screw through the overhang to give a grab point put the crown as shown above set the width and rip 

once cut here is the result once rotated



HTH 

Joe

[Rob Young]

There is the risk of the board coming loose, which is not safe.  Better option for securing is as noted screws, or if you don't want to mar the surfaces, build a jig with toggle clamps, like these, that will hold the work securely.  Essentially, a board that rides against your TS fence with the toggle clamps holding the workpiece to it.  A board coming loose during a rip is something you don't want to experience, trust me.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...at=51&ap=1

This sort of idea and possibly the use of an "L" fence to guide a long sled which is holding the offending workpiece.

"L" fences can do a lot of clever tricks.

[Francis Stillman]

Thanks for the replies.
I thought the apparent strength of the command strips might be good for this job, but if there is any question about safety, don't do it! Besides they aren't re-usable and I haven't been in a store that was giving them away. I'll make a rip guide like the one JGrout shows there, the bitter end with the screw in it will be trimmed anyway. I hadn't seen a demo of the L fence before, that would be very handy for those jobs I hated using my taper jig for. Thanks guys.
FS

[JGrout]

Just so you know the screw just pokes through the end stop enough to grab the piece to be ripped I do not secure it past that. IOW all it needs to do is keep the end away from you from moving

[Scott W]

HHe is just another idea...I have these but since I bought a jointer I never used them. Keeping them just in case.

http://www.rockler.com/e-z-jointer-clamp...AuR-8P8HAQ

[ez-duzit]

The Festool track saw is absolutely the fastest way I have ever straightened the raw edge of rough lumber. No measuring, no fastening. Just lay the long guide on the edge and cut.

[JGrout]

The Festool track saw is absolutely the fastest way I have ever straightened the raw edge of rough lumber. No measuring, no fastening. Just lay the long guide on the edge and cut.

I suppose I do have to measure however I suppose I could set up a line laser over the sawblade and get away from that too. 

One thing about it,  I do not have nearly as much in it as one would with  that high priced  green stuff.