Radial arm saws

[MstrCarpenter]

I can offer a few cents of knowledge too, I have three set up in the shop. First, compared to a T.S. kick back, a R.A.S. climb cut happens in slow motion and your first reaction is to try to stop it. That's when you'll have no idea or thoughts about where your other hand is, so always leave plenty of room between the cutting path and your hand. Also, whenever I see it, I strongly suggest that the operator immediately break the habit of sticking their thumb out towards the blade. (Opposing thumbs are nice to have, keep it under your palm.) I Like a 0 degree hook angle; if you're not familiar with the term, do a little research to find out why there are so many, and what's best for different applications. A lot of craftsmen like the R.A.S. for dados, myself included. These cuts are more prone to climb cutting. Most sets have a positive hook and frequently they are allowed to become duller than what would be acceptable for other blades. A lot of people say ripping on the R.A.S. is unsafe. I don't share that opinion. I find it more convenient and comfortable to use a table saw, but if none were available, I wouldn't hesitate. Done correctly,  (the guard lowered and anti kick back pawls in place) with a sharp rip or combination blade, I feel totally safe.

[rwe2156]

Thanks for the advise.  Should I then assume, that with a tablesaw, good side should be down?  How about a circular saw-good side up?

All you gotta do is think about the way the saw teeth are entering or leaving the wood.......................

[MichaelS]

I don't agree on the TK recommendation as a universal truth. While it was useful for my MB and other small units (which were admittedly underpowered as they originally were used with HC blades vs. Carbide, thus were thinner and often possessed less resistance - though dulled more quickly.)

My GW is a true 1.5 hp and it'll spin a full kerf pretty handily through just about anything I put in it.

Michael

[Downwindtracker2]

My DeWalt, which my Dad bought, is the 10" 1400 from '61. Any saw that will run on 110 is going to be limited to a maximum of 15 amps, and that is underpowered. The big industrial ones I've used are a different ball game all together.