Notching Studs for Romax

[McApple]

If it was me, I'd cut out the drywall, drill the studs, install 1/4" backer board and then the tile.  If the tile is going wall-to-wall, I would cut out a strip of drywall, drill, wire, put back a strip of drywall, then tile.

[Dusty Workshop]

I have always used mastic on backsplash tile. Less sagging and in my opinion easier to work with. This tile will not be getting wet.

I am on board with drilling through the center of the Studs to run the new line.

I am still undecided on the best way to get the 2 different tiles level.

[Snipe Hunter]

I don't have a good mental picture of "two different levels of tile" but... I have installed (particularly when doing a tile base board on a tiled wall or bottom of column) a layer of 1/4" or 1/2" cement board under that bottom tile. That brings it up to the same plane as the wall tile. Install the wall tile above it and install the bottom tile (baseboard tile) on the cement board and just grout the top of the baseboard tile into the wall tile. It looks great and ads some dimension. I'll be doing it at the base and top of our new shower's exterior and at the top of the new shower's interior.

[Snipe Hunter]

BTW. Drilling holes in the studs will give you a good excuse to buy either some "stubby" drill bits or a right angle drill at Harbor Freight.

[Bob10]

I bought something like this for drilling in between floor joists air powered isn't for everyone.  Allowed for straight holes in really tight spaces

[Dusty Workshop]

I will get a picture of the 2 types of tile side by side.
The thickness of the accent band of tile is 1/8" thicker than the Wall tile thickness.
Grout lines are thin.
Mayve it would look OK to install it as us and have the accent tile stand proud of the wall tile by 1/8"

[Dusty Workshop]

I have an electric right angle drill with a paddle switch that looks very much like that. Works great as a lathe sanding tool.

[ez-duzit]

"The thickness of the accent band of tile is 1/8" thicker than the Wall tile thickness."

No problem.

[Roly]

The vanity is actually 2 pieces ; a 12 inch bank of drawers and then the 48 inch cabinet.   The existing outlet is centered above the drawers.   I would have to go through the 2 sidewalls of the drawers and then the side of the cabinet to get the line in on that side of the vanity.  Since the backsplash is getting tiled it seems that running the line through the wall would be easier.

The accent tile is thicker than the field tile.
I am not comfortable with using an extra 1/8" of mastic to build it up to flush.   I might be if it was the other way around and I only had to build up the accent,  but that is not the case.

I have been looking at this from the standpoint of having to build up the field tile.   Maybe instead I should remove the 2 3/8" swath of drywall where the accent tile will go,  run the wire behind that,  and then cover that swath with backer board that is 1/8" thinner than the drywall thickness.

 This method will also  give you access to drill the studs.   Also think about any exposed edges along the  outside edges on how you want it to look.   Keep in mind if you install a 2 3/8" swath of drywall and someone leans on it, it will not be very strong.   I would put vertical supports behind it.  (could be glued or screwed to the existing drywall)   Roly

[Lynden]

I am still undecided on the best way to get the 2 different tiles level.

Tempered hardboard is "highly moisture resistant." You could glue/screw 1/8" hardboard on the drywall in the field area to make up for the difference in tile thickness. The moisture resistance of the hardboard plus the mastic should be waterproof enough for a backsplash.

http://pacificpanel.com/_images/9/169/pd..._sheet.pdf