How does Corian sand?
#11
I need to shorten a short Corian countertop. It's for more fridge clearance. When we moved and put our fridge in, we had to push it in. Actually dented 1 side of fridge.
Removing countertop would be a project. Looks like it is glued to the cabinet. And the backsplash is grouted to the countertop short splash.

So, Am I dreaming thinking I can sand off at least 1/8" of the countertop end?
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#12
You should be fine. Corian's color and pattern runs through the material. Getting an eighth inch off will take some work. I've turned pens of Corian.
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#13
I'd use a router and straight edge for as much of it as possible.
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#14
Any info on cutting with a jig saw?   How about a oscillating multi tool? I would need the multi tool to cut the 4" corian back splash, and countertop near it. 
How about cutting with a hand crosscut saw?
Think I should go look for a Corian scrap, and try some methods.
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#15
A down cut blade in a jig saw should be fine as well as the oscillating tool. Basically treat it like wood that can get gummy when hot. If you dnt get any other info shoot me a pm and ill go do a test cut on some corian i have in the shop. I havent tried either tool on it myself but the oscillating blade should make a nice cut if you dont overheat  it.
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#16
I've worked with quite a few corian tops and can say its not much to be afraid of. Like Robert said, just be aware that its plastic and melts if you push it too fast. Otherwise treat it as you would any easy to work wood. Sharp carbide has no issues with it. And I have used regular HSS to rough cut it with no adverse effects. As far as sanding, don't go past 320 as scratches and usage just show that much faster.
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#17
You didn't say what was on the other side of the fridge. Could it be a wall with base molding and shoe molding ? Could you remove the shoe molding ? Or, how about a thinner piece of base molding ? Just a thought.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#18
Base was removed to squeeze in the old fridge.
Think by best bet is to get a scrap and try an oscillation tool, then orbit sander.
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#19
(05-27-2017, 03:25 PM)Pirate3 Wrote: Base was removed to squeeze in the old fridge.
Think by best bet is to get a scrap and try an oscillation tool, then orbit sander.

If you can wait till tomorrow ill do a few cuts on a scrap piece and post pics. 


Im done for the day today. Been trimming trees all day in the 93* temp 109* heat index heat. Have a pile on the street 4' tall 6' deep and about 50' long... But its much cooler than yesterday as it was 101* and the heat index was around 114*. Soi did enough and i have to get the smoker going and will be smoking briskit until dinner tomorrow night....  So i quit for now...  

    Still gotta sweep the sticks up and cut the grass in the morning so i can take a few minutes in the shop to make a test cut. Ill turn on the ac so i can take a break doing it....
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#20
(05-27-2017, 03:25 PM)Pirate3 Wrote: Base was removed to squeeze in the old fridge.

So much for my idea, lol. Usually, the finished ends of solid surface tops are 1/2" thick. Your biggest problem is going to be sanding a straight line. Not impossible, just time consuming. Draw a straight line where you want the new edge to be and have at it with a random orbit sander. Use the coarsest grit that you can find to get the bulk of the material removed. Once you get to the line, move up through the grits until about 400 or finer. You can finish it off with a Scotch Brite pad.

Good luck and let us know how it ends up
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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