Can table saw wobble be corrected?

[JGrout]

A question??? We had a guy who used to come here with your first name, and last initial. You don't by chance sharpen blades do you?

that is Scott Whiting

[Scott W]

I had both...the ridgid jobsite and the 3650. The jobsite saw was my favorite hands down.

[Steve N]

This is the first manufactured mibile base I have ever had. Why do y'all not like it?  I do like it's rolling capabilities.

You misunderstood me I think. The smaller mobile base on it with a side table and a length up to 40" to the right of the blade can be supported just fine off the upper rails for the rip fence alone, which makes the bigger base redundant is all. The pics you posted made it look like a slightly wider than normal width, so I figured the small base was plenty sufficient. I'm an old trader/flipper of tools, and if I ever got a "bundle" deal it was only what I needed that stayed. Anything redundant, or unneeded got flipped, just makes the overall cost less to me is how I looked at it. Now if the cut to the right side went out to 50+" then a wider stance base would be good for support of a bigger side table. Again in the pic, the second base looked like it fell way short of a wide stance, so it's truly redundant unless something is wrong with the Delta base. If you like how the wider base works for you, then I would remove the Delta base, and sell it to someone who just had the saw. Wording them would need to be specific as to what it was a base for. Point is you only need one base on the saw.

[Steve N]

that is Scott Whiting

Yeah I know, but he hasn't been on here so long I forgot what his name was on here. A lot of the vendors use names here that aren't complete names, and OP's born on date isn't brand new. I would have thought Scott's was older, but you know I'm old and cornfused, Joe

[Scott W]

So, steve N, you mention two things....i didn't realize that the "extra" base comes off. If i don't need it i will remove it....and two you are suggesting I don't need any support for what will be a router table built in?.. meaning the legs to hit the base? How many bolts should be attaching the rails on both sides of the cast iron table I wonder.....i only have 2 on either side. I am gonna replace that one that came with the saw with melamine I suppose. So will two bolts on both sides be adequate to not need support as in legs attached at the end of the table? 

I am surprised this fence will only give me a 27ish inch rip capacity.  I don't need any more, it's just i assumed I'd have more.

[Scott W]

After going to the garage, I guess it would be reasonable for the rails to support a router table with only those bolts. There is some pretty thick metal there. Ain't like I'll be standing on it.

[Steve N]

After going to the garage, I guess it would be reasonable for the rails to support a router table with only those bolts. There is some pretty thick metal there. Ain't like I'll be standing on it.

Zactly. You just need to easily support the weight of the table, whatever you will be running across it, and the router hung beneath the table, Those rails on the Beis style fences are pretty beefy. Now if you were going out to 50" I would suggest support that goes more to the ground, not necessarily because the rails alone wouldn't hold the table, and "stuff" but because making a wing that far from the BASE of support, the saw itself, you can get tippy. Start doing work on it, and Mr Tippy can home to roost on ya.

Probably done differently by a lot of people, but if I am building up a table, even if it doesn't have a router in it, I attach a very well flattened 10/4 or even a 2x piece of something. I prefer hardwood because softwoods move so much with moisture, actually I prefer Quarter sawn Red Oak, 10/4 stock, and I make a billet 4 square about 2" x 4 or 5" x however long it needs to be to butt into cast iron, and go to the outside edge of the table. I attach this with bolts, and fender washers so it sits exactly the same height as the cast iron top on that side of the saw. Exactly is important, because one top piece runs right into the other, and if the level of the two are off by much, it will affect cuts bridged over that gap. Remember you have to allow for something something 3/4" thick on the top portion of those braces, or actually that foundation.

Now that is a tall order, and some people have reported back that their particular tube set for the rip fence rails will not work out like that due to hole height, and a lot of other factors. In those cases it may be required to hang a piece of angle iron from those 2 holes on each rail that will allow you to make the top product be at the exact correct height. I have seen where some needed to lay metal stock front to back on the angle iron, and put 2 or 3 thicknesses of ply, MDF, or other sheet material that put together will make the correct height. With the wooden pieces acting as fence rail attachments, you may also choose to put pieces front to back to both sides of them to further help support that "wing" How beefy is always up to you
Now if you get too beefy, you may inadvertently invite Mr Tippy back into the party. This isn't the end of the world. You can put a gate leg at the end of the table, on a regular door hinge. While moving the gate legs are up, when at the place you chose to work with the saw, drop the gate legs (1 front one back) and again you've sent Mr Tippy packing.

[Scott W]

Well, it's on. Now I will do the table to fit the router probably this weekend.  I will post a pic  thanks for the assistance.

[TDKPE]

After going to the garage, I guess it would be reasonable for the rails to support a router table with only those bolts. There is some pretty thick metal there. Ain't like I'll be standing on it.

FWIW, my Unisaw has the 51" Biesemeyer fence, with legs at the outboard end, but my mobile base is just the square base.  Not extended like yours is.  I put the caster wheel under the table, so I have to stick my foot in there to raise it, and usually I help it a little by lifting on the fence rail.  But it supports the long table with no problem.  I just screw the adjustable feet in when I move it (they're off the ground with the caster wheel engaged) so when I lower it back down for work I can adjust them to just take the weight of the table.  No worries that way about putting heavy stuff on it.

That Z-shaped lever is so you don't have to stick you foot way under there to lower the wheel and raise the saw.  Someone was asking about the wheel location, but it's in the correct place.

[Scott W]

Thanks. Looking forward to hooking up a DC port in the bottom and getting to a few projects I want to do.