How to fit a countertop in a nook?

[atgcpaul]

I want to fit a wood desktop between a wall on the left and a cabinet on the right, but I'm a little stumped on how to go about it. I would really like to just set the top in and not use a backsplash to conceal a gap between the desktop and the wall.

I guess make some kind of template out of plywood, refine that to match this space and then transfer to the actual countertop?

Not sure if there are other techniques I can try, but trial and error.

Thanks
Paul

[Bill Holt]

If you want to avoid the backsplash and/or small trim, I think you "nailed it"..........scribe the top to the wall.

[Phil Thien]

Strips of plywood or hardboard strips, hot-glued together is how I've seen the pros make templates.

If you have decent gaps along any of the three walls, you can scribe the strips before gluing them together.

I think you're still going to want a bead of caulk no matter what, unless it is absolutely perfect.

[JGrout]

I want to fit a wood desktop between a wall on the left and a cabinet on the right, but I'm a little stumped on how to go about it.  I would really like to just set the top in and not use a backsplash to conceal a gap between the desktop and the wall.

I guess make some kind of template out of plywood, refine that to match this space and then transfer to the actual countertop?

Not sure if there are other  techniques I can try, but trial and error.

Thanks
Paul

You can make the top just a bit wide and scribe it to fit the wall directly pull it out and trim 

If you have to fit the sides as well the easy way is to make the ply narrow then use thinner ply 1/8" to fit the sides and back and stick it to the thicker with hot melt glue or brads/ Apply it to the top from the bottom side of the top transfer the template to the top then cut   Bevel the edges a few degrees  except the front edge on the sides to allow a bit of clearance while setting it in place

[Cooler]

Strips of plywood or hardboard strips, hot-glued together is how I've seen the pros make templates.

If you have decent gaps along any of the three walls, you can scribe the strips before gluing them together.

I think you're still going to want a bead of caulk no matter what, unless it is absolutely perfect.

This is how I've done it and it really is the only efficient way.  I took strips (about 3" wide masonite) and placed them so that the ends overlapped.  After I cut all the pieces so that they were flush to the wall, I used a hot glue gun to glue them into a pattern.

I was using this to make a new bottom plate for a bay window with 6 facets, but this technique will work well with a nook too.  All the parts of the window were perfectly straight so I did not have to scribe.

[DogwoodTales]

I don't know if you can make this work in your given space, but maybe cut a straight line gap the drywall so that the counter/desk top will inset into the wall somewhere within the thickness of the drywall. Then just fill in the drywall along the edge and repaint. (I'm assuming the cabinet side is flush and won't need to be scribed.
I know of at least one person who did this with their bathroom vanity, but the opposite end was not against another wall or cabinet, so this idea might not work in your situation.

[atgcpaul]

I don't know if you can make this work in your given space, but maybe cut a straight line gap the drywall so that the counter/desk top will inset into the wall somewhere within the thickness of the drywall.

I can't do that here, but it's what I did for the vanity top.

Strips of plywood or hardboard strips, hot-glued together is how I've seen the pros make templates.

If you have decent gaps along any of the three walls, you can scribe the strips before gluing them together.

I think you're still going to want a bead of caulk no matter what, unless it is absolutely perfect.

This is what I ended up doing.  It's not perfect and I am going to need to use a little caulk and repaint the wall that got scuffed a little in the fitting process, but good enough for me.

Thanks,
Paul

[Lynden]

Google "ticking stick" or "joggle stick".  I remember seeing Tom Silva on TOH use a ticking stick to fit a countertop in a niche.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104...636279.jpg

http://www.contractortalk.com/attachment...sition.gif

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw...ing-sticks

[mike4244]

I want to fit a wood desktop between a wall on the left and a cabinet on the right, but I'm a little stumped on how to go about it.  I would really like to just set the top in and not use a backsplash to conceal a gap between the desktop and the wall.

I guess make some kind of template out of plywood, refine that to match this space and then transfer to the actual countertop?

Not sure if there are other  techniques I can try, but trial and error.

Thanks
Paul

One thing not mentioned, when you are ready to install the top    install a padded spreader between the wall and cabinet. The drywall only has to push a 1/4"or so for the top to level out. I generally use a 1x3 with a piece of 1/4" plywood about 6" square on the ends. Make the spreader 1/4" / 3/8" longer than the wall to cabinet distance.
mike

[museumguy]

One thing not mentioned, when you are ready to install the top    install a padded spreader between the wall and cabinet. The drywall only has to push a 1/4"or so for the top to level out. I generally use a 1x3 with a piece of 1/4" plywood about 6" square on the ends. Make the spreader 1/4" / 3/8" longer than the wall to cabinet distance.
mike

Great idea, another option is a piece of laminate. we carry several pieces on our trucks just for this. ask around at local shops, we throw laminate away at least  times a year, I mean a lot of laminate. we keep big pieces until a job is done, then it goes in the scrap bin, eventually the dumpster.