This will be a live-edge bench with wood legs. The tops of the legs will be morticed into the top 1.5 inches. It's the bottom that concerns me. How to make a right-angle joint that has some strength.
Thanks. --Peter
10-26-2017, 03:19 PM (This post was last modified: 10-26-2017, 03:34 PM by jteneyck.)
(10-26-2017, 03:15 PM)petertay15 Wrote: This will be a live-edge bench with wood legs. The tops of the legs will be morticed into the top 1.5 inches. It's the bottom that concerns me. How to make a right-angle joint that has some strength.
Thanks. --Peter
Mortise and tenon, finger joints, and dovetails come to mind.
John
FWIW, I wouldn't put the cross pieces flat on the floor. The table will likely rock because floors are rarely truly flat. Maybe you plan to put feet under the legs to get it down to just four points of contact. If not, I would lift those cross pieces up at least an inch.
(10-26-2017, 03:15 PM)petertay15 Wrote: This will be a live-edge bench with wood legs. The tops of the legs will be morticed into the top 1.5 inches. It's the bottom that concerns me. How to make a right-angle joint that has some strength.
Thanks. --Peter
Not sure of your overall dimensions, but a stretcher between the legs would go a long way to provide strength...
I would look hard at changing the stretcher , raising it up and rotating it perpendicular to the legs then using a mortise and tenon
but that is a pretty big design change from what you have.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Yes, JGrout, your suggestion would be a significant change from my plan, but one I must consider. The table I'm copying has metal legs, so joint strength was not an issue for them. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably abandon my first plan. --Peter
If you put the bottom block beneath the legs instead of between them, you can through dowel with three 3/4" diameter dowels.
When I've done this I simply glue and screw to start. After the glue dries, I remove one screw and through drill for the dowel and glue that in. I repeat for the additional dowels. No jig is required.
I don't think it is as strong as a finger joint, but probably as strong as a mortise. Much, much faster and easier.
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