Need to make this for my sister. Super fast project, I don't want to complicate it.
How far could I span the pipe supports? She would like it to be 7' 6" long. Can two laminated 2x6's span a 6'6" gap or so and not sag over time? It ain't gonna hold much weight...
(11-22-2017, 09:40 PM)Strokes77 Wrote: Need to make this for my sister. Super fast project, I don't want to complicate it.
How far could I span the pipe supports? She would like it to be 7' 6" long. Can two laminated 2x6's span a 6'6" gap or so and not sag over time? It ain't gonna hold much weight...
Thanks.
Are you really laminating the 2x6's or are you edge gluing them? one gives you a shelf 1.5 inches thick and the other gives you a shelf 3 inches thick. Either way there should not be a problem with sag unless there is something extremely heavy in the middle which you have already indicated there won'e be. You could move the supports in a little more from each end. That should help any sag issues if you are still concerned. Much of this depends on the quality and condition of the boards you plan to use. If you are buying these boards now, I would be more concerned with them warping as they dry out. It looks like a shelf like that would not "lock" the boards in the structure to keep them straight and warp free as they season. laminating the boards to make a 3 inch thick shelf would help with the warping issues. Not because they are thicker but because one board can help keep the other from warping.
I would build it just as you have it drawn but warn the sister that if a board twists as it dries it may need to be replaced.
KyleD
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
I built a bookshelf for my daughter with the same technique.
We chose the straightest grain construction 2x6s we could find ... the were quite wet when purchased.
They have been installed since March of this year and surprisingly no splits or warping as of yet. :fingers-crossed:
This bookcase spans 4 feet and is extremely sturdy; the second from the top shelf has "L" brackets screwed into studs to keep the unit from toppling.
However, this installation with the threaded pipe and flanges was a PITA.
Screwing the pipe into one flange effectively unscrews it from the other.
We attached a flange to the bottom shelf then screwed in the pipe leaving it just a bit loose for adjustment.
Then screwed on the 4 top flanges until they all were measured to the same height.
Then placed the next shelf (with flanges already attached to the top) and attached the flanges to the underside.
Repeat until full height is reached.
(11-22-2017, 09:40 PM)Strokes77 Wrote: Need to make this for my sister. Super fast project, I don't want to complicate it.
How far could I span the pipe supports? She would like it to be 7' 6" long. Can two laminated 2x6's span a 6'6" gap or so and not sag over time? It ain't gonna hold much weight...
(11-22-2017, 09:40 PM)Strokes77 Wrote: Need to make this for my sister. Super fast project, I don't want to complicate it.
How far could I span the pipe supports? She would like it to be 7' 6" long. Can two laminated 2x6's span a 6'6" gap or so and not sag over time? It ain't gonna hold much weight...
Thanks.
Try it. You can always easily add pipe supports in the middle in the future if it sags.
Have you considered using one 2 X 12 instead of gluing up 2 2 X 6's? I've been watching 2 X 12's at the local big box and with luck you could find some pretty nice stock in the bigger boards. They'd also probably be close to quarter sawn which would help with stability as they dry.
(11-23-2017, 03:49 PM)Phil S. Wrote: Have you considered using one 2 X 12 instead of gluing up 2 2 X 6's? I've been watching 2 X 12's at the local big box and with luck you could find some pretty nice stock in the bigger boards. They'd also probably be close to quarter sawn which would help with stability as they dry.
Phil
Phil S. has a point here. I have built many sets of adult bunk beds out of two by material from the big box store and have learned; go there with an open mind as to the width of the material. You never know which size will be good for your uses. I have bought many wide boards cut the pith out and used the quasi quarter sawn material left over.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
11-24-2017, 04:11 PM (This post was last modified: 11-24-2017, 04:12 PM by Willyou.)
KyleD makes a good point. Dimension lumber is almost guaranteed to warp as it dries. Get wider planks (as dry as possible), rip out the pith and then glue the rift/quarter sawn remainder back together. The result will be a much more stable shelf. Even better, also make a rip cut through the remaining rift/quarter sawn material then mix the pieces up so adjacent pieces don't go back in the same position before glue up.
BTW, for projects like this, I've found that it pays to go to my local lumber yard and pay a little extra for the good stuff. It tends to be somewhat drier also.
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