Beall Polishing System

[MidwestMan]

Hello everyone,

I'm thinking of buying the Beall Polishing wheels/mops. I've never used a polishing system before and therefore, I am a newbie regarding this topic.

I've seen several video's, of folks using the system. However, I've never seen anyone use it on shellac finishes. Is there a problem with using polishing wheels, on shellac?

Right now, my favorite finish to use, is the shellac/BLO mixture. Since it's cheap, quick and easy.

Joe

[MichaelMouse]

Hello everyone,

I'm thinking of buying the Beall Polishing wheels/mops. I've never used a polishing system before and therefore, I am a newbie regarding this topic.

I've seen several video's, of folks using the system. However, I've never seen anyone use it on shellac finishes. Is there a problem with using polishing wheels, on shellac?

Right now, my favorite finish to use, is the shellac/BLO mixture. Since it's cheap, quick and easy.

Joe

Yup. Shellac is more inclined to gum up with heat produced by pressing than other well-cured finishes.  Why it is used in "friction polishes," I suppose.  The "system" must be used with low-pressure caution, even on cured varnished pieces, because it can cut through, or even throw the piece back at you if you're not careful.  
Dust mask mandatory, I might add.

Too easy to use a mock French polish technique on shellac to produce a great surface to even risk it.

[MidwestMan]

Yup. Shellac is more inclined to gum up with heat produced by pressing than other well-cured finishes.  Why it is used in "friction polishes," I suppose.  The "system" must be used with low-pressure caution, even on cured varnished pieces, because it can cut through, or even throw the piece back at you if you're not careful.  
Dust mask mandatory, I might add.

Too easy to use a mock French polish technique on shellac to produce a great surface to even risk it.

Thank you for the info Michael. Is there a way to shine up (polish) the shellac/blo finish that I'm using.

[MichaelMouse]

Thank you for the info Michael. Is there a way to shine up (polish) the shellac/blo finish that I'm using.

Sure. Overcoat with a 1 or 2# shellac applied with a LIGHTLY lubricated pad, after taking any wax off with mineral spirits. 

Oodles of information if you search French Polishing.  For instance https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=fre...&FORM=VIRE

If you've gone to BLO for the ambering, you may use almost any oil.  I use grapeseed, because I'm not interested in adding color.

[MidwestMan]

Sure. Overcoat with a 1 or 2# shellac applied with a LIGHTLY lubricated pad, after taking any wax off with mineral spirits. 

Oodles of information if you search French Polishing.  For instance https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=fre...&FORM=VIRE

If you've gone to BLO for the ambering, you may use almost any oil.  I use grapeseed, because I'm not interested in adding color.

Thank you again.... I will look into that.

[Arlin Eastman]

Thank you again.... I will look into that.

On Shellac I only apply Renaissance wax and use the beal wax buff on it at only 800rpm.  I have gone thru 3 sets of the Beall buffing wheels and I love using it.

***Note*** The way you get a catch with it is when it goes to a top edge and it will want to spin it out of your hands other wise keep it in the lower 3/4 of the object and away from the upper edge.

How I use the Beall buffing is put on the red rouge and turn the lathe up to 2000rpm or better and the same way with the white diamond and carnauba wax.  Then I lower the rpms to 800 to 1000rpm and apply the Renaissance wax all over the object and then buff it off.  On some things 2 or 3 coats will make it look like lacquer.

[Wipedout]

On Shellac I only apply Renaissance wax and use the beal wax buff on it at only 800rpm.  I have gone thru 3 sets of the Beall buffing wheels and I love using it.

***Note*** The way you get a catch with it is when it goes to a top edge and it will want to spin it out of your hands other wise keep it in the lower 3/4 of the object and away from the upper edge.

How I use the Beall buffing is put on the red rouge and turn the lathe up to 2000rpm or better and the same way with the white diamond and carnauba wax.  Then I lower the rpms to 800 to 1000rpm and apply the Renaissance wax all over the object and then buff it off.  On some things 2 or 3 coats will make it look like lacquer.

Arlin is right on with this. Perfect my friend

[MidwestMan]

On Shellac I only apply Renaissance wax and use the beal wax buff on it at only 800rpm.  I have gone thru 3 sets of the Beall buffing wheels and I love using it.

***Note*** The way you get a catch with it is when it goes to a top edge and it will want to spin it out of your hands other wise keep it in the lower 3/4 of the object and away from the upper edge.

How I use the Beall buffing is put on the red rouge and turn the lathe up to 2000rpm or better and the same way with the white diamond and carnauba wax.  Then I lower the rpms to 800 to 1000rpm and apply the Renaissance wax all over the object and then buff it off.  On some things 2 or 3 coats will make it look like lacquer.

Thank you Arlin. Since I'm using shellac these days, this sounds good. So, I gather, all I need is one buffing wheel exclusive for the Renaissance wax... correct? After the shellac dries, just buff it out with Renaissance wax, is that right?

So, help me out please. I make bowls. So, I will need a beall bowl buffing cloth thingy (for bowl interior) and an 8" beall buffing wheel (which one of the 3 should I get?) and I will need renaissance wax.

Joe

[Arlin Eastman]

Thank you Arlin. Since I'm using shellac these days, this sounds good. So, I gather, all I need is one buffing wheel exclusive for the Renaissance wax... correct? After the shellac dries, just buff it out with Renaissance wax, is that right?

So, help me out please. I make bowls. So, I will need a beall bowl buffing cloth thingy (for bowl interior) and an 8" beall buffing wheel (which one of the 3 should I get?) and I will need renaissance wax.

Joe

Joe

Here is how I do things with the buffs


I use the wheels even on bowls that where the buff can easily go inside and I.  If I make a small bowl or box I use the bowl buffs which come in 2", 3", and 4" and I have used all of them however, I have found they do not quite work like the buff wheels.  Personally I would get the whole set up at J. R. Beall's

I have the 2" and hardly ever use them and I would not buy them again but the 3 and 4" I use more often which is only 5% of the time.  The other 95% is the wheels and I am going to get the 4" in the future for the smaller areas.

http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php

I also have the string buff and the horsehair buff and only use them on special items.  Also I like to go directly to Mr. Beall so he gets more of the money instead of part of it which I think he deserves.  I also put on a 8" extension on the head stock to give me more room from the headstock.  http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...egory_Code=

Packard is the only one that has had it for years and I think now afew others do as well.

If I can convince you to use what I use I think you will be much more happier.

I use Tru-oil which is a gun stock oil which was used for a lot of years since WW1 and I thin it with 20% DNA and it will sink into the wood and I put a few coats on it then I do all three of Beall buffs on it and last the renaissance wax last and apply more coats until I am very happy with the results.  I do not use the renaissance wax on things they are eaten from since the wax will not last it is only for looks and keeping finger prints off.

Tru-oil

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/bc23035/

I always put it in these 8" bottles since it will squirt so well and I can squeeze the sides to keep the air out.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/im00003/

I also use this for putting my Titebond glue in instead of the hard ones which always clog up and hard to squeeze and I also use them to put in my Starbond CA glue in which I feel is the BEST CA glue out there and cheaper in the 16 oz bottle then several 2 oz bottles elsewhere.

The 16oz also comes with four 1oz bottles and tip extenders which allow 1 drip at a time and I love them.

https://www.starbond.com/thin-ca-glue-em-02.html

Hope this helps and helps others as well

[MidwestMan]

Arlin, Thank you for taking the time to write about all the things you mentioned. Although I'm not clear about how to enhance the shellac finishes I currently use, I have learned about other options. Such as the "Tru-Oil" product.

To be exact, I use the (shellac, BLO mixture) and apply it as a friction finish. The resulting finish is pretty nice, but I believe it can be made to shine and sheen better. I usually put some (beeswax/mineral spirit mixture) on top of it and with a paper towel "buff" a bit, to help with the shine and feel.

I had a "cart" filled with Beall products a couple of days ago, and then all of a sudden, their website crashed. Or at least I could no longer access there website. I still can't.