01-21-2018, 01:24 PM
Can We Discuss Drill Bits?
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01-21-2018, 02:13 PM
(01-21-2018, 01:24 PM)Mr Eddie Wrote: +1 This is the way to find dead center............. OP needs to drill in a template that is 3/8" thick, but the hole size is 5/32..better check if the transfer pouch set includes a punch that small....If not it is an easy project to file a point on a short piece of 3/16" steel, or even brass or aluminum stock in a drill press or wood lathe. Either of the softer metals will be able to punch a center hole mark in wood....Just file the short rod down to fit the hole in the template....5/32"..
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01-21-2018, 03:12 PM
You can punch then use a 1/8" "spotting drill" then finish with a 5/32" reamer to get a precise hole.
A drill bit will never give you a precise hole, if precision is what you need. Spotting drill. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/89698625 Reamer. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/30162663 Or if it need be as close to precision without reaming a 5/32" spotting bit is your better option.
01-21-2018, 10:06 PM
Gene
What size bits do you use all the time? To me the best over all is a forstner bit and you get nice holes on the side and flat bottoms if you do not go all the way thru the wood. Also on any drilling on woods I always drill the back side so the hole does not splinter out like drill bits do and some forstner bits as well. You can pilot drill with a 1/8 bit and then drill until you are from 3/16" to 1/4" from going out and then turn it over and finish drilling. The smallest forstner bit I seen is 3/16" and goes up in 1/16 from there. You can also order only the ones you use or a whole kit of them but that can run a lot more $$ then you wish
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01-22-2018, 12:45 AM
Here are a few pics of what I'm needing to make, along with the piece that I need to make them from. I suspect that if the brain trust here actually sees what I'm working with, some members may come up with a different or better approach.
The templates I need to make will be much like these, but with different dimensions and a bit larger to make their use easier, in my estimate. The smaller template is for the front and it's placement is the most crucial, as the rear one gets indexed to the front, via two 1/2" holes drilled all the way through the body at the two corners towards the neck end of the hole. This is not the actual body, but nearly identical, although this one is a left handed model. The one I need to work from is an actually fully functional guitar that I use regularly and I don't want to have disassembled for any longer than necessary, so I'm waiting until I have my procedures well planned out! Thanks Folks, Gene
Gene
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01-22-2018, 10:19 PM
(01-22-2018, 12:45 AM)MoreToolsForMe Wrote: FHere are a few pics of what I'm needing to make, along with the piece that I need to make them from. I suspect that if the brain trust here actually sees what I'm working with, some members may come up with a different or better approach. How many do you need- seriously pm me... I have an epilog helix laser that would excel at making that in acrylic in about 45 seconds and im happy to help Lawrence
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01-23-2018, 03:57 AM
(01-22-2018, 10:19 PM)TucsonLawrence Wrote: How many do you need- seriously pm me... I have an epilog helix laser that would excel at making that in acrylic in about 45 seconds and im happy to help Lawrence, I really appreciate your offer. My thought is that it will be nearly as much time and effort to come up with a precise enough drawing as it will be to make the template from the existing guitar. I currently need only one, but in the future it may be good to have a set for each of the four or five variations of Fender's tremolo systems. I'm assuming that to use your machine, a DXF, DWG or similar file/drawing is required? Might I also assume that if I could provide and actual physical drawing that you could simply scan it into the format you need or convert a PDF? Just Curious? Gene
Gene
"Gettin' Old Ain't For Sissies"
01-26-2018, 09:02 PM
Have you looked at VIX bits?
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