Mobile clamp racks

[BrentDH]

Thanks everybody, I did a google search after I posted this and found tons of ideas. now all I have to do is cherry pick the ones I need.
BrentDH all I can say is "nice rack" pun intended! I really like your design will be stealing the middle part.

RobertM

Let me know if you want any more detail on any aspect of it.  I really spent a lot of time figuring out how to compact as many clamps in as narrow of a width as I could.  There is a lot of overlapping going on there with the k-bodies.  I also kind of like the glue "tray" in the middle section.  I keep all my glues and brushes in there.  I figured that glue and clamps belong together.   I also keep it in a corner and put the most commonly used stuff on the exposed two sides.  It weighs a ton but is solid as a rock and rolls around fine, although it rarely moves other than to just expose the other two sides

[fredhargis]

Need to reiterate the need for good, heavy duty casters. The rack will really have some serious weight on it.

[photobug]

Let me know if you want any more detail on any aspect of it.  I really spent a lot of time figuring out how to compact as many clamps in as narrow of a width as I could.  There is a lot of overlapping going on there with the k-bodies.  I also kind of like the glue "tray" in the middle section.  I keep all my glues and brushes in there.  I figured that glue and clamps belong together.   I also keep it in a corner and put the most commonly used stuff on the exposed two sides.  It weighs a ton but is solid as a rock and rolls around fine, although it rarely moves other than to just expose the other two sides

I'm interested.  If you are able please detail the build so I could use it for a future build?  My last clamp rack did fine until I gathered all my clamps in one place, then it became a toss up if when i put a clamp on the rack if one would fall of the other side.

[RobertM]

Let me know if you want any more detail on any aspect of it.  I really spent a lot of time figuring out how to compact as many clamps in as narrow of a width as I could.  There is a lot of overlapping going on there with the k-bodies.  I also kind of like the glue "tray" in the middle section.  I keep all my glues and brushes in there.  I figured that glue and clamps belong together.   I also keep it in a corner and put the most commonly used stuff on the exposed two sides.  It weighs a ton but is solid as a rock and rolls around fine, although it rarely moves other than to just expose the other two sides

I've already started, it's definitely going to a version of yours. Any more details you could provide would be great.
I'm trying to figure out what I'l do with the center section. Actually printed out the pictures you provided to give me a reference. Made the base 36"x 24" x 72" tall and that seems to give me plenty of room to get all of my clamps hung up.
Thanks for the great example, it really helped getting me started.

Robert

[handi]

Several years ago, I built the New Yankee Workshop mobile clamp rack. Listening to my inner voice, I installed 4 5" diameter casters for ease of movement. Don't skimp on the caster quality or wheel diameter!

^^ this ^^ And the advice about building bigger. I need to re-do mine and the casters have always been an issue. It rolls, but not easily.

[BrentDH]

Sorry.  A little slow getting back to you with some details.  

The base is 3/4" plywood  35 1/2" x 22 3/4".

The trapezoids are 3 1/2" strips of 3/4" plywood doubled up (1 1/2" thick) and overlapped at the corners (like a half lap joint).  They are 71 1/2" high, 35 1/2" wide at the bottom (to match the length of the base), and 17 1/2" wide at the top.  (Nothing magic about this angle - it just seemed to be a nice angle to keep things in place.) They are screwed up through the bottom of the base and connected to each other by the cleats holding the k-bodies. 

The cleats holding the k-bodies are solid wood 2" wide and 3/4" thick and 22 3/4" long (to match the width of the base).  These are strategically placed depending on the lengths of your clamps.  You obviously need one at the top to support the top of each row of clamps but you also need to make sure there is a second lower one more than half the length of the clamp further down to keep it from swinging to vertical and possibly falling off.  (Hopefully that makes sense.)  I put two screws in each end into the trapezoids because there is quite a bit of weight hanging on them.  There is one cleat at the very top of each side to hold the top row of clamps and to provide a means to mount the center column.   As I commented in the earlier post I spent a lot of time laying the clamps out to determine the width and height of the rack.  And I squeezed a lot in a small width by overlapping them.   If you look closely the heads of the second row down fits between the bars of the row above it.  There is only one way they will all fit on there and I ended up labeling all of the lengths and where they go so I can reload it correctly.  

The center column is also doubled up 3/4" plywood.  I wanted plenty of meat to hold screws for all the brackets and I wasn't sure a single 3/4" thickness would give me that.  It is 16" wide and 70 1/4" tall.  The top of the center section is screwed into a cross piece between the top two k-body cleats (perpendicular to the cleats and resting directly on top of the center column).  That cross piece is 2" wide by whatever length it needs to be to intersect the top cleats and beveled on the ends to match the angle of the cleats.  It lays flat on top of the center section with the 2" in the horizontal direction and the 3/4" in the vertical direction.    The bottom is screwed up through the bottom of the base.

Then I made misc brackets and posts to match whatever clamps I had and screwed them to the center section.  I will try to take some more detailed pictures tomorrow.  The light weight ones are just a 2" or 2 1/2" square with a dowel in the middle.  The heavier ones where I was concerned about leverage are just a rectangular base and a rectangular support.  By making them taller in the vertical direction I could get a couple screwes into the support from the backside of the base.  Then the base was just screwed to the center column.

Finally, just because I am a little crazy I resawed some thin strips 1 1/2" wide and a little under an 1/8th thick solid wood and pinned them to all the exposed edges of the plywood.

Hopefully this helps.  Please ask if something doesn't make sense or if you want a closer up picture of something specific.

[bhh]

   
1x4 and 2x4

   

[BrentDH]

Here are two pictures showing how the center section attaches at the top and some of the clamp holders attached to the center section.

[RobertM]

Sorry.  A little slow getting back to you with some details.  

The base is 3/4" plywood  35 1/2" x 22 3/4".

The trapezoids are 3 1/2" strips of 3/4" plywood doubled up (1 1/2" thick) and overlapped at the corners (like a half lap joint).  They are 71 1/2" high, 35 1/2" wide at the bottom (to match the length of the base), and 17 1/2" wide at the top.  (Nothing magic about this angle - it just seemed to be a nice angle to keep things in place.) They are screwed up through the bottom of the base and connected to each other by the cleats holding the k-bodies. 

The cleats holding the k-bodies are solid wood 2" wide and 3/4" thick and 22 3/4" long (to match the width of the base).  These are strategically placed depending on the lengths of your clamps.  You obviously need one at the top to support the top of each row of clamps but you also need to make sure there is a second lower one more than half the length of the clamp further down to keep it from swinging to vertical and possibly falling off.  (Hopefully that makes sense.)  I put two screws in each end into the trapezoids because there is quite a bit of weight hanging on them.  There is one cleat at the very top of each side to hold the top row of clamps and to provide a means to mount the center column.   As I commented in the earlier post I spent a lot of time laying the clamps out to determine the width and height of the rack.  And I squeezed a lot in a small width by overlapping them.   If you look closely the heads of the second row down fits between the bars of the row above it.  There is only one way they will all fit on there and I ended up labeling all of the lengths and where they go so I can reload it correctly.  

The center column is also doubled up 3/4" plywood.  I wanted plenty of meat to hold screws for all the brackets and I wasn't sure a single 3/4" thickness would give me that.  It is 16" wide and 70 1/4" tall.  The top of the center section is screwed into a cross piece between the top two k-body cleats (perpendicular to the cleats and resting directly on top of the center column).  That cross piece is 2" wide by whatever length it needs to be to intersect the top cleats and beveled on the ends to match the angle of the cleats.  It lays flat on top of the center section with the 2" in the horizontal direction and the 3/4" in the vertical direction.    The bottom is screwed up through the bottom of the base.

Then I made misc brackets and posts to match whatever clamps I had and screwed them to the center section.  I will try to take some more detailed pictures tomorrow.  The light weight ones are just a 2" or 2 1/2" square with a dowel in the middle.  The heavier ones where I was concerned about leverage are just a rectangular base and a rectangular support.  By making them taller in the vertical direction I could get a couple screwes into the support from the backside of the base.  Then the base was just screwed to the center column.

Finally, just because I am a little crazy I resawed some thin strips 1 1/2" wide and a little under an 1/8th thick solid wood and pinned them to all the exposed edges of the plywood.

Hopefully this helps.  Please ask if something doesn't make sense or if you want a closer up picture of something specific.

Thanks again, doubling up on the center section makes a lot of since. It's funny I came up with pretty much the same dimensions as you but I guess it just goes along with the size of the clamps used.
I can see where trying to figure out configuration of the clamps is critical for max use. once I dug all of my clamps out from their various hiding spots I realized I have a lot more than I thought and getting them all on one rack is going to be a challenge but with the center section I believe it's going to work out. 
I will be adding the glue shelf as I too think if you got your clamps there your going to need the glue. This is going to be a great addition to the shop once I get all the details figured out and implemented I'll post some pictures, not going to be as nice as yours but functional.
Thanks again,
Robert

[Splinter Puller]

Finally hit the point where I could really use a mobile clamp rack. I've had them stored in whatever corner I wasn't using at the moment and now looking to have a home for them.
Tried doing a search but came up empty any pics or ideas are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Robert

my pipe clamp rack is mobile.   It's built of 1" and 1-1/4" metallic conduit.