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I haven't done much since October (out of country for work until just recently) but for the resawing I was doing I've been using a 1/2" 3tpi from Grizzly. It is just their house branded blade.
BUT, I sharpen it (look back in the forum for suggestions, good stuff) using some diamond stone wheels in a Dremmel. Works GREAT! Especially for a $21-ish 105" blade!
I've sharpened a Woodslicer for a friend and it started working again too.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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Any 1/2" x 3tpi blade will work as long as it's sharp. I'm using some Starrett stock that a,friend gave me and it cuts very well and is surprisingly durable. I used Olsen MVP blades before that. They cut great but only after I sharpened them. Brand new blade and would not cut straight.
I'll repeat this for effect. If a blade that used to cut straight no longer does, chances are it's dull. Tension is important, but a sharp blade is more important.
John
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(02-06-2018, 07:47 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Any 1/2" x 3tpi blade will work as long as it's sharp. I'm using some Starrett stock that a,friend gave me and it cuts very well and is surprisingly durable. I used Olsen MVP blades before that. They cut great but only after I sharpened them. Brand new blade and would not cut straight.
I'll repeat this for effect. If a blade that used to cut straight no longer does, chances are it's dull. Tension is important, but a sharp blade is more important.
John
Thanks, everyone.
Ray
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(02-05-2018, 07:31 PM)jteneyck Wrote: but it could be a dull blade.
John
That was my first thought...not the spring... the only thing changing each time was the blade getting duller and duller.
Y'all got him on the right track, tho.
One day, Chuck Norris ordered two pizzas to go. They went.
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(02-05-2018, 04:25 PM)falcon Wrote: I have a Rikon 14" bandsaw that I think needs a new blade tension spring. I detention the blade whenever I leave the shop for the day and re-tension it again when I'm ready to use it again. For the past few weeks, I have had to increase the tension more and more with each use to get the blade to the proper tension. I wrote to the Rikon tech service and even called the tech guru but I got no response. I asked the Carter folks about getting a new spring but they told me that they don't make a spring for the Rikon 14" bandsaw.
What's the deal with the "yellow" Cobra spring that is supposed to fit "most" 14" bandsaws? Has anyone replaced their original blade tension spring with one of these Cobra springs? And if you did, how was it to change it out and how is it working out for you?
Thanks for any comments.
Ray
I've been doing a bit of research about a new spring for my saw.
The saw is rated to handle a 3/4" blade and I have a resaw king in that size but now it seems that I'm not getting the tension which I used to and I always wanted a bit more tension on the blade to begin with.
So I took the spring out and measured it.
Then I went to Mc Master Carr and looked at replacement springs that are similarly sized.
High strength die spring
The Cobra spring is just a high strength die spring which you can buy at Mc Master Carr and other places.
It's just that the Cobra spring is about 2-3 times what you'd pay someplace else.
I'm looking at upgrading my spring in the next few weeks.
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(02-18-2018, 09:31 PM)Peter Tremblay Wrote: I've been doing a bit of research about a new spring for my saw.
The saw is rated to handle a 3/4" blade and I have a resaw king in that size but now it seems that I'm not getting the tension which I used to and I always wanted a bit more tension on the blade to begin with.
So I took the spring out and measured it.
Then I went to Mc Master Carr and looked at replacement springs that are similarly sized.
High strength die spring
The Cobra spring is just a high strength die spring which you can buy at Mc Master Carr and other places.
It's just that the Cobra spring is about 2-3 times what you'd pay someplace else.
I'm looking at upgrading my spring in the next few weeks.
Springs don't normally loose compression unless over compressed. A higher rated spring may help, as long as the tension doesn't get so high to cause excessive frame deflection. It's usually best to use a blade no wider than one size less than what the manufacturer claims as the maximum width. Carbide blades run best at 25 - 30K psi.
Look forward to hearing how you make out with the new spring.
John
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02-18-2018, 10:24 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-18-2018, 10:27 PM by Peter Tremblay.
Edit Reason: Edit to add new info
)
(02-18-2018, 10:13 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Springs don't normally loose compression unless over compressed. A higher rated spring may help, as long as the tension doesn't get so high to cause excessive frame deflection. It's usually best to use a blade no wider than one size less than what the manufacturer claims as the maximum width. Carbide blades run best at 25 - 30K psi.
Look forward to hearing how you make out with the new spring.
John
Thanks John.
I think I've over compressed my spring.
I know of that rule about blade width but at the time I really wanted (and still love) a carbide tipped blade.
The only one out there that fit my saw was the resaw king at 3/4 so I gave it a try.
I love that blade I just want a bit more tension and I think the steel frame certainly can handle it.
Edit to add: I just looked and Laguna now makes a 1/2" resaw king. That would have been great a few years ago when I got the blade.
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(02-18-2018, 10:24 PM)Peter Tremblay Wrote: Thanks John.
I think I've over compressed my spring.
I know of that rule about blade width but at the time I really wanted (and still love) a carbide tipped blade.
The only one out there that fit my saw was the resaw king at 3/4 so I gave it a try.
I love that blade I just want a bit more tension and I think the steel frame certainly can handle it.
You'll know if the frame is max'd out if the upper guides start to push to the right - ie - if the guides were fine at lower tension but then start rubbing on the left side of the blade and getting more open on the right side, that's a sure sign the frame is bending more than it was designed to handle. Thas happened on my 14" Delta at about 15K psi. Fortunately, the Resaw King uses thin blade stock so you may very well be OK. Good luck.
John
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(02-18-2018, 10:30 PM)jteneyck Wrote: You'll know if the frame is max'd out if the upper guides start to push to the right - ie - if the guides were fine at lower tension but then start rubbing on the left side of the blade and getting more open on the right side, that's a sure sign the frame is bending more than it was designed to handle. Thas happened on my 14" Delta at about 15K psi. Fortunately, the Resaw King uses thin blade stock so you may very well be OK. Good luck.
John
That's a great tip.
Thank you
