I place feather boards so contact with the workpiece ends immediately before the saw contacts the workpiece. I don't want the feather board pushing the workpiece into the side of the blade. It's function is to push the workpiece against the fence, not the blade.
(03-28-2018, 09:16 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: This brings up the point that if a push block catches you can get injured. I've had a few close calls over the years getting in a hurry and lifting the push block up too soon. This risks the blade catching the push block and pulling the hand into the blade.
snip
The solution is use a splitter & keep the fence extended far enough back so the stock engages between the splitter and the fence. And be sure the push block has cleared the blade before lifting!!
And that brings to mind having a decent outfeed table. Which I don't have (but did long ago), and I use rollers and/or one of those floppy Rigid tables. But thinking back to when I did have one, it's psychologically easier to push beyond the blade when you aren't thinking about what the stock will do after it's beyond the blade. It's just a deeper saw table. And with my Biesemeyer fence hanging back there, there's just so much additional guidance for a push block that straddles the fence.
I really should get off my arse and make one.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Mine is open underneath, as my electric and dust collection (floor) is under there.
I've seen many here that built theirs as a cabinet and had drawers and shelves under there.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
(03-26-2018, 10:37 PM)tnff Wrote: It kind of sounds like using the Unifence which can be moved forward of the blade so it can be used as a stop with the miter gauge. But that position is intended for cross cuts, not ripping, so that a cutoff from a cross cut won't get trapped between fence and blade. Other than that, not quite sure about the situation.
Not sure if all of the recommendations have been made to not only avoid kickback but to be 'out of the way'!
When ripping, I use my splitter, outfeed table, hold-downs as needed, and always try to stay to the left of the saw blade behind my table like the pic below - I've had only a few kickbacks but was not in the way to be injured (one flew to the other side of my basement shop) - so, body position is yet another consideration. Dave
(03-28-2018, 10:57 AM)Cooler Wrote: I use the rollers. I would have room for a 4' x 4' but I would be unhappy about filling more than that much space.
That's why I'm thinking 'folding'. I don't have much room, and have to angle and move the saw a little to rip 8 ft lengths, so anything that can't be folded and put away, like rollers and/or an outfeed table, would really not be good.
But I've seen a few folks here with folding tables, which seems like a really nice solution, with rollers and/or Rigid floppy table to augment. But that extra table space behind the blade should keep me from being so careful about not letting short pieces get too far and fall off the end and such, which is not what I should be thinking about when ripping.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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