I took the wedgie plunge

[Angus]

Here's the disclaimer. I've been using fixed sleds on a tablesaw for segmented work for over 15 years. I'm pretty set in my ways but I'm going to try and be as objective as possible. 

First, as a setup tool the wedgie is worth every penny. It's good for sleds but where it would really shine is for the folks who use miter saws to cut segments. Place the wide end against the fence, move the blade to the wedgie and lock it down. Simple as that. Where I have some issues (they are very minor and probably due to using a new setup) is the sled and most instructions for use.

First here is a pic of one of my fixed two runner sleds for reference.

Segment length is always set to the right of the blade with a stop block and a piece of sticky tape measure. The segment in the pic is for a pinwheel or sunburst pattern
Here is my version of the wedgie sled and stop block. I think I made some improvements to both compared to what I found on line. 

The stop block is based on Jerry Bennets design. I did add T track for the stop to slide in. I also used two mag switches so I could secure it anywhere I wanted. The sled isn't all that different than what you see on line with one exception. I made the length so it hangs over the table on the left by one inch. Then I put a runner up against the edge of the table and screwed it to the sled. Now I have the stability and longevity of a two runner sled. Trust me on this, two runner sleds will last longer. 

Now for for my observation/opinions. The wedgie sled is slllooooowwwww compared to the sled in the top pic. The fixed sled I set the stop block to the tape and cut the segments. With the wedgie it took a while to get the correct length. With the fixed sled I never have to change the the zero clearance insert between ripping and crosscutting operations. With the wedgie sled I have to change it for every ring because of my cutting and assembly methods. My first ring with the wedgie sled was not perfect. It dawned on me that the stop block was the problem. For a perfect ring not only is the angle vital but so is segment length. Every segment in the ring has to be the exact same length or you will have gaps. The rounded edge shown in the picture made it real hard for me to hit the same spot on the stop every time. I turned it around and used the flat end for the next ring and it came out perfect.

The other concern I have with the two fence system is this. Using a fixed sled on my feature rings I glue up each segment with the design in it. Then I mark the center of the segment. If the segment needs to be two inches long I put the center line of the segment on the one inch mark and cut one end of all the segments. Then I set the stop block at two inches and cut the other end of all the segments. Now I have my design centered in each segment and each segment is the exact same length. I'm sure it can be done with a two fence sled but I haven't quite got my head wrapped around how to do it.

I'm not sure why in all the how to's on the wedgie sled it shows people using the inside of the bottom fence then the outside of the top fence. Using this method means the faces of the top fence have to be exactly parallel or the segments will be off. I just used the inside of both fences. Those are the face that are set to the wedgie anyway. Why not just use them? 

Final thought; The wedgies are a good buy for segmenters. If you don't have room for multiple fixed sleds and time is not a concern the sled is probably a good idea. In my case where I have room for multiple sleds and time is a concern, I'm just not sold on the sled yet.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted the review to be as comprehensive as possible. I'll be happy to answer any questions or get more pictures.

[Splinterz25]

Angus glad to see you posting this information to help people see the different ways to make wedgies; you may want to show us the pieces together in a ring after cutting before gluing so we can follow along better. also are these compound angles? or is the blade at  90  degrees?

Bruce

[Arlin Eastman]

I also really like how you made your sled so you can do bigger pieces. 

Like Bruce said, I would love to see you go from cutting to finished up.

  and one more

[Angus]

Splinters, all of my segment work is 90 degree cuts, I never tilt the blade. Arlin there's nothing tricky about gluing the segments together. I just put them in a hose clamp and cinch it down.
I did do another ring today using the wedgie sled. Without a doubt it is the worst ring I have cut in years. The gaps were so bad even using dowels between segments at the 50% points wouldn't close the gaps. Somehow it has to be human error the only thing that changed from yesterday was segment length. I have segments for another ring cut I'll see how they turn out.

[FrankAtl]

Splinters, all of my segment work is 90 degree cuts, I never tilt the blade. Arlin there's nothing tricky about gluing the segments together. I just put them in a hose clamp and cinch it down.
I did do another ring today using the wedgie sled. Without a doubt it is the worst ring I have cut in years. The gaps were so bad even using dowels between segments at the 50% points wouldn't close the gaps. Somehow it has to be human error the only thing that changed from yesterday was segment length. I have segments for another ring cut I'll see how they turn out.

I'm not sure what you are doing wrong but all the rings I've glued up so far cut on my Wedgie have been perfect. Do the gaps seem to be from inaccurate angles or inaccurate lengths or both?

[DFJarvie]

This thread got me to make a wedgie although a fixed one. I use 12 segments so I made a fixed on set to 15 degrees. I need to test it tonight. Ill report back.

Arlin, for glue ups I just rub them together on a piece of granite. It takes a few extra days due to I glue up on 2 to 3 segments at a time. While it’s longer I know I have 1 side flat to make sanding easier.

[Angus]

I'm not sure what you are doing wrong but all the rings I've glued up so far cut on my Wedgie have been perfect. Do the gaps seem to be from inaccurate angles or inaccurate lengths or both?

I think what I did was instead of switching from fence to fence I turned the piece of stock over like you would on a single fence sled. Old habits die hard I suppose. I did a bunch more rings today and they were all perfect.

[Angus]

Okay as requested here are some more pics for the ring assembly. 

Here are the segments fresh of the saw. You can see the fuzz left behind on the segment edges.


I use my stationary belt sander to sand all the non saw cut surfaces to clean them up. I never sand the saw cut edges or I would mess up the angle. Some segmenters set up sanding jigs on a disc sander to true up the angles and remove saw marks for a better fit. My saw and sleds are tuned well enough that I don't have to do that. If you only have a handsaw or bandsaw you could use the wedgie to build a sanding sled to achieve the perfect fit.

Here's the assembled ring in a hose clamp. before gluing for the test fit. I have a halogen work light that I put the ring in front of to check for gaps at the glue joints.


If for any reason you don't have a perfect fit and you don't want to recut all the segments you can use the method in the pic below to save the ring. Use two pieces of dowel or anything round. Put them between the segments like in the pic right across from each other. This forces all the combined errors into the two gaps where the dowels are. Glue it up just like in the picture and clamp it up. Once dry true up the four faces of the two half rings. I use a table saw sled, some use a large disc sander. The trick is to take off only enough to get a good fit. This is the reason most segmenters only build rings with even numbers of segments. Their is no way to true up half rings using odd number of segments.

[SceneryMaker]

Here are the segments fresh of the saw. You can see the fuzz left behind on the segment edges. I use my stationary belt sander to sand all the non saw cut surfaces to clean them up. I never sand the saw cut edges or I would mess up the angle.

I found my belt sander to be too aggressive so I use a 120 grit sanding mop in a drill press to clean off the fuzzies. The mop is too fine to remove any real material so it works great for that.

[bob-t]

Okay as requested here are some more pics for the ring assembly. 

Here are the segments fresh of the saw. You can see the fuzz left behind on the segment edges.


I use my stationary belt sander to sand all the non saw cut surfaces to clean them up. I never sand the saw cut edges or I would mess up the angle. Some segmenters set up sanding jigs on a disc sander to true up the angles and remove saw marks for a better fit. My saw and sleds are tuned well enough that I don't have to do that. If you only have a handsaw or bandsaw you could use the wedgie to build a sanding sled to achieve the perfect fit.

Here's the assembled ring in a hose clamp. before gluing for the test fit. I have a halogen work light that I put the ring in front of to check for gaps at the glue joints.


If for any reason you don't have a perfect fit and you don't want to recut all the segments you can use the method in the pic below to save the ring. Use two pieces of dowel or anything round. Put them between the segments like in the pic right across from each other. This forces all the combined errors into the two gaps where the dowels are. Glue it up just like in the picture and clamp it up. Once dry true up the four faces of the two half rings. I use a table saw sled, some use a large disc sander. The trick is to take off only enough to get a good fit. This is the reason most segmenters only build rings with even numbers of segments. Their is no way to true up half rings using odd number of segments.

Angus
Good Job Angus,  welcome to the segmented vortex.
If you want to correct(fix) the non error in flipping the board on fence 1 try this.  It looks like you are use 16 segments per ring, so cut 8 on fence 1 by flipping the board. Then move to fence 2 and cut 8 more by flipping.  Again you should have a perfect ring, but perhaps not a perfect circle--the lathe will fix that.  Note the wedges do not need to be the same size when cut on the different fence.
More fun when you switch fences is to skew the fences so that the sides of the wedges are not the same angle.

I think that if I make another sled it will be like yours, but the end closest to the blade will be fixed.

Bob