(04-15-2018, 03:31 PM)Dusty Workshop Wrote: Hi
I am going to install some LED ribbon lighting under the cabinets in the bar area I am working on. I need to span the ribbon behind the wall between 2 cabinets. (see Pic).
The space between the two cabinets will be tiled backsplash.
I was thinking that I could run some 1 inch pvc pipe behind the wall as a chase for the ribbon to run through. That might make it easier to replace the lights in the future.
Is there a better way to do this?
Thanks
I just re-read your original post, which is why I'm posting again. To answer your question; Yes, there is. Run 18ga or 20ga
stranded wire through the back of the cabinets (either inside or just below the bottom shelf) to each other and to the power supply or the low voltage switch. You can solder these wires directly to the LED strips, or splice them to similar wire leads which are soldered to the LED strips. You can then just peel the backing off, stick them to the cabinets, and tuck the wire into the corners with the excess being pushed back into the wall. You may also decide that an extra 1/2 hour and $25 is worth the time and money to create professional, custom length and finish LED strip light fixtures. In either case may I suggest you purchase an extra transformer (if it lasts 18 months it will probably last 10 years or more) and save a feet or more of the LED strip because a replacement, even months from now, may not have the same color temperature or lumens.
Now for anyone interested in creating their own, here's a few things I've leaned during my builds.
Polarity matters. If the conductors aren't color coded, mark one of them every 6", end to end.
Solid wire is a P.I.T.A. Use stranded wire approved for alarms; it can be buried in the wall.
The lights are brighter and more consistent with home runs to the transformer (or switch).
Cut the strips between the double solder spots. They're usually every 3 or 4 LEDs, (Sometimes you can cut more off one end and they'll still work)
If you need strips longer than 15', a 24v strip is required.
Soldering to the strips is easy. First remove any silicone. I flux both the strip and wire, and tin the wires first. Heat just long enough to melt the solder, don't move.
I off-set my low voltage splices, solder and shrink tube them, then a 4" shrink tube goes over the whole area.
I run the wires in 3/8" OD tube to the back of the cabinet, or up the inside of the cabinet behind the face frame. The 1/2" space between cabinets is handy too.
I prefer switching and dimming the supply to a magnetic transformer vs. controlling the low voltage (which is required with an electronic transformer)
Last, but not least;
The aluminum channel has oil on it. Not good for sticky strips or finishing.
Good luck!
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