Bonding wood to metal
#11
I built two Shaker style cabinet doors using pocket holes. In trying to plan where to drill the 35mm hole for the Blum concealed hinges, I screwed up a bit. Of the 8 holes used to mount the hinges, there are about 3 of them where I am hitting the Kreg screws below the surface and I can't use both holes. I was thinking of using something to bond the base of the hinge to the wood, unless there is a better idea I'm missing. I am able to get at least one screw in each hinge. So I just need something else to keep it solidly in place. Any ideas?
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#12
(04-24-2018, 08:27 PM)plharrison Wrote: I built two Shaker style cabinet doors using pocket holes. In trying to plan where to drill the 35mm hole for the Blum concealed hinges, I screwed up a bit. Of the 8 holes used to mount the hinges, there are about 3 of them where I am hitting the Kreg screws below the surface and I can't use both holes. I was thinking of using something to bond the base of the hinge to the wood, unless there is a better idea I'm missing. I am able to get at least one screw in each hinge. So I just need something else to keep it solidly in place. Any ideas?
Paul

any chance you can grind a bit of the hinge or screw?
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#13
There may be a better idea, but you could epoxy them in and it will hold.
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#14
(04-24-2018, 09:17 PM)Bob10 Wrote: any chance you can grind a bit of the hinge or screw?

Do you mean shorten the screw? I tried a shorter screw than what comes with the hinges but it still hits. I've thought about adjusting the angle of the pilot hole slightly (away from the Kreg screw) but I'm afraid I'd pull the hinge out of alignment.
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#15
(04-25-2018, 05:26 AM)fredhargis Wrote: There may be a better idea, but you could epoxy them in and it will hold.

True, but I'm going to wait and listen to every idea that comes up first!
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#16
Can you back out the Kreg screws, drill out the hole to 3/8" and replace them with glue and dowels?
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#17
(04-25-2018, 07:36 AM)Cooler Wrote: Can you back out the Kreg screws, drill out the hole to 3/8" and replace them with glue and dowels?

I tried this once and blew out the other side. The angle of the holes is such that the full 3/8" is difficult to drill more than maybe 1/8" into the joined piece before blowing through.

It's possible, I suppose, just a lot harder than it sounds.

I'd go with epoxy, provided you were OK with never getting it out.
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#18
(04-25-2018, 07:36 AM)Cooler Wrote: Can you back out the Kreg screws, drill out the hole to 3/8" and replace them with glue and dowels?

Nope. Already filled & painted.
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#19
When I've hit Kreg screws that surprised me I was able to drill a little one way or the other until the drill found it's way past it.  The screw might go in a little off angle but it still went in OK.  As long as the other screw is in OK the difficult one won't pull the hinge cup out of alignment.  

I would not epoxy the hinge in place.  How would you remove it if there's a problem?

John
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#20
(04-25-2018, 08:43 AM)FS7 Wrote: I tried this once and blew out the other side. The angle of the holes is such that the full 3/8" is difficult to drill more than maybe 1/8" into the joined piece before blowing through.

It's possible, I suppose, just a lot harder than it sounds.

I'd go with epoxy, provided you were OK with never getting it out.

This is an upper cabinet of a "mud locker" thing with a dog crate below that I built. Obviously not quite finished yet. It will not get much use and I don't really care if I can ever get it out. We'll probably only store stuff up there we will never use, like our wedding china!

[Image: IMG_4783.jpg]
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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