pocket hole fixture
#21
(04-27-2018, 09:12 AM)cams2705 Wrote: If you plan on making multiple cabinets, I highly recommend going with the K4 or better jig.  The clamp style wokrd if you are doing a couple of holes, but you will start to lose your mind in positioning and reclamping the jig at each individual you have to drill as opposed to dropping it in the jig and pulling the clamp handle.  I built pantry, laundry room, and 2 bathroom vanity cabinets and I say I saved literally hours of time and frustration.
And I would recommend the Porter-Cable unit over the K4 or the K5 from Kreg.  It is, in my opinion, significantly better than the Kreg version.  Though the Kreg bits are easier to find than the P-C bits (which are longer).
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#22
I bought a three-jig kit at a woodworking show about 13-14 years ago.  I use the large three hole jig with the integral clamp and the mini the most.

There’s nothing magical about the clamp.  In fact, with the mini, I’m much more likely to use an Irwin quick clamp to hold the jig, rather than go to the drawer to find the Kreg clamp that came with the kit.  I’ve used that mini on small, medium, and large projects, including the pergola over the patio at the house.
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#23
(04-27-2018, 11:52 AM)Cooler Wrote: And I would recommend the Porter-Cable unit over the K4 or the K5 from Kreg.  It is, in my opinion, significantly better than the Kreg version.  Though the Kreg bits are easier to find than the P-C bits (which are longer).

And when you need to take the PH jig to the work you can still buy a Kreg and use it. Or just buy a K4 or 5 and do both. The K4 and 5 can also use the kreg mini and the HD blocks too if you Want a lot smaller or a lot larger PH screw options.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#24
I have an older HF that is a clone of the K4 that works fine.
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#25
I bought the clamp-on single hole version shortly after they came out and have looked at the others as "improvements " were made. In each case, I decided that while the one I had might have been slower, the new stuff didn't do anything enough better to be worth spending the money.

If you are wondering if the overall technique is worth bothering with, I suggest the simplest and cheapest one first. If you get a bigger, better, faster, cuter one later, you'll still find places the simple one works better. If you don't like the technique, you're not out much and you have a useful step drill to show for it.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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#26
I was in HF yesterday but didn't find the pocket hole fixture.  I went to Woodcraft, and the K5 is made like a toy.  I would have to get over that impression to buy it.
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#27
(04-30-2018, 09:10 AM)EricU Wrote: I was in HF yesterday but didn't find the pocket hole fixture.  I went to Woodcraft, and the K5 is made like a toy.  I would have to get over that impression to buy it.
When I was growing up all the plastic parts of my bicycle broke pretty quick.  So  I have the mindset that "plastic is for toys" too.  

But kids growing up now have bicycles and the plastic parts last as long as the bicycle and they don't rust.  So they don't see plastic as a downgrade.

Kreg claims that the plastic is ABS, an engineered plastic.  ABS is a pretty tough material.

That said, when it came to spending $130.00 for a pocket hole jig, I went with the Porter-Cable unit which is all cast and machined aluminum.
[Image: 513PqO-IrPL.jpg]

If I had the work to support it, I would go with one of the Castle machines.  Serious money, but they cut a better (shallower) angle hole.

https://www.castleusa.com/categories/mac...tters.html
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#28
I became a lot more interested in the PC after I saw the Kreg.  I was always turned off by how complex it looks.  OTOH, the Kreg requires you to buy another kit if you are going to drill in thinner boards.  I feel like I might sometimes want to drill holes in existing cabinetry, which argues for the Kreg. Unless there is something about the PC that I don't understand

Or maybe I should just get the double hole Kreg and try that first. Seems like the single hole system would be a little frustrating after a few holes.
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#29
(04-30-2018, 10:16 AM)EricU Wrote: I became a lot more interested in the PC after I saw the Kreg.  I was always turned off by how complex it looks.  OTOH, the Kreg requires you to buy another kit if you are going to drill in thinner boards.  I feel like I might sometimes want to drill holes in existing cabinetry, which argues for the Kreg. Unless there is something about the PC that I don't understand

Or maybe I should just get the double hole Kreg and try that first.  Seems like the single hole system would be a little frustrating after a few holes.

The P-C was a bit daunting to start to use.  There was a 10 minute learning curve.  But after that, a breeze.  It automatically sets the depth of the drill by the thickness of the stock.  It is robust enough to hold a face frame without anchoring it.  It allows you to quickly alter the spacing between the holes and the spacing from the edge of the stock.  
The clamp holds very well.

It allows you to wall mount of bench mount the unit.  It has dust collection.  It has on board holders for two driver shafts and one drill and collar.  It does not provide on-board holder for the allen wrench you will need if you move the collar to a new drill bit.  They should have provided that.

It easily handled 2" x 4" lumber.  With my old aluminum bodied Kreg jig I had to give up on the clamp and use an external clamp to hold it in place.  And I had to re-clamp for the second hole.  The P-C took 1/4 the amount of time.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#30
I made an extra face for my bench vice mounted the 2 hole kreg two support blocks one on each side an did my daughters cabinets. Fast to move and clamp worked great.
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