How do I remove a broken screw I can't reach?
#11
When I built my daughter's crib (and hopefully soon to be next daughter's/son's crib) I had to assemble it in the room. I made four sides - the front and back can be used as a headboard and footboard at some point in the future. I drilled 3/8" holes (two top, two bottom) - they are visible here (apologies for the large image)

[Image: crib.jpg]

On one of the back screws, I ended up breaking one. The head snapped off but the shank was still in the bubinga corner post and in the bubinga side rail. (In the picture, it's the upper left - the screw shank entered from the back, through the back post, and the shank is pretty much right under the monitor camera on the rail). I did put another screw in there, but it probably wasn't necessary. Now, I may need to move this into another bedroom, and I would like to fix it now. I know that the rest will come apart and I can get it moved in an L shape, but later on down the road it will need to come apart.

So there's now a 3/8" hole, maybe 3/8" deep, with a broken screw inside of it. About the only way I can think to get rid of it would be to try and unscrew the entire side rail (set it on the floor and rotate it off), which might be a problem with the bloodwood cap on the back. I don't know. I don't really have any good ideas.
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#12
Never had to do this, but my first thought is to use a plug cutter bit and drill it with that- drilling only as far as the joining wood. Then using a small chisel, break the plug and remove it, then use needle nose pliers to turn the remainder of the now exposed screw out. Then plug the hole back up and start over with a new screw.
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#13
Did you mortise and tenon on it if not take all the other screws out and try to unscrew the whole piece by spinning it
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#14
(05-09-2018, 09:15 AM)daddo Wrote: Never had to do this, but my first thought is to use a plug cutter bit and drill it with that- drilling only as far as the joining wood. Then using a small chisel, break the plug and remove it, then use needle nose pliers to turn the remainder of the now exposed screw out. Then plug the hole back up and start over with a new screw.

I actually did almost this exact thing when replacing screws on a handrail (the builder used the cheap screws that came with the brackets, and they all stripped or broke when I tried to remove them). This might work, but ideally I don't want to drill through the post if I can avoid it (it will be exposed when it's used as a bed) so a dowel plug might look out of place. I could always cover it with a small trim piece or something.

I think I might try unscrewing the entire thing before cutting a plug. Only the permanent joints are M&T (Domino, actually) so there's nothing preventing it from rotating.
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#15
There are many screw removal systems out there.  I bought one from Sears years ago and it worked fine.

https://www.google.com/search?q=screw+re...e&ie=UTF-8

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#16
This is what I would use, it makes a smaller hole. Cut a hole in a scrap of ply, clamp the ply over the post to prevent the bit from walking.

Amazon


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#17
Id prob leave it and cut the screw at the joint later. Maybe vibratory tool desinged for metal.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#18
Easy outs are a bit large(even the small sizes) for screws. Your idea to simply rotate the two pieces apart is the best one. Reason?, you can simply replace the screw without needing a filler.
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#19
(05-09-2018, 09:06 AM)FS7 Wrote: When I built my daughter's crib (and hopefully soon to be next daughter's/son's crib) I had to assemble it in the room. I made four sides - the front and back can be used as a headboard and footboard at some point in the future. I drilled 3/8" holes (two top, two bottom) - they are visible here (apologies for the large image)

[Image: crib.jpg]

On one of the back screws, I ended up breaking off.


 It appears that the cap may be in the way to unscrew the rail. If the cap comes off easily ,then you can turn the rail til it unscrews from the head board. Another way to go at it is saw thru the rail /head board joint with an occilating tool or even a hack saw blade.Might get a bit of clearance turning the rail til it hits the cap, then cut thru the screw. I have not used the hole saw thing for this purpose but looks like it may work for you, try that first.
mike
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#20
Save yourself a head ache get a left hand drill smaller than the screw and use a hand drill in reverse and once the bit catches the screw will unscrew it's way out.
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