Posts: 7,421
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2005
I was never quite sure what Low Density, Medium Density and High Density were exactly. And whether you could get High Density fiber board in light or ultra light versions.
This article is supposed to set the record straight (but I remain confused).
I think particle board is not low density fiberboard. I think that low, medium and high refer to the bonding agent.
But read this and see if you understand it.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Posts: 2,840
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
(04-20-2018, 07:52 AM)Cooler Wrote: I was never quite sure what Low Density, Medium Density and High Density were exactly. And whether you could get High Density fiber board in light or ultra light versions.
This article is supposed to set the record straight (but I remain confused).
I think particle board is not low density fiberboard. I think that low, medium and high refer to the bonding agent.
But read this and see if you understand it.
Did you forget the link
I tried not believing. That did not work, so now I just believe
Posts: 1,383
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2007
Consider salvaged plywood. It generally has to be higher quality plywood because builders can't afford to have their casework delaminating. GovDeals and Public Surplus are two great sources of large scale casework from the past that were usually built from good materials. The below is an example. The sander had an open base that was pretty useless for storage. A surplus $1.00 Sheriff's desk from the 1970s provided the case body and drawer fronts. The drawer sides came from a solid wood 12' library shelf unit that was bought for $35.00.
Posts: 1,687
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2005
(04-14-2018, 04:57 PM)Bill Holt Wrote: I have two "flip top" stands, one for the lunch box planer and one for sliding compound miter. I used frame and panel construction. The panels are 1/2" plywood. Both stands are stored under the table saw out feed and are used frequently. They may be 12 years old and are as solid as the day I finished them.
IMHO you will be much happier, in the long run, using plywood now.
That's how I did my cabinet/tool stands. 2 X 3 or 2 X 4 frames rabbeted to accept 1/2" ply panels. I jointed/planed the 2 Xs after letting them dry indoors for a few weeks. Stout and they add a lot of storage while taking up no additional space. Mine are all on casters so mobile base is another benefit.
Posts: 1
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2018
05-16-2018, 01:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-16-2018, 01:45 PM by OneyMark.
Edit Reason: additional info
)
(04-14-2018, 07:51 AM)Cecil Wrote: Having a small shop, I am eliminating a few of the steel legs in my shop in favor of cabinets with some storage capabilities. For example the Ridgid Planer shipped with a steel base, but a cabinet base will work better for me.
Particle Board is <$18 for a 4x8 sheet, and will give me the functionality I need. A decent quality plywood is ~$60, with MDF somewhere in the middle.
My pea-brain tells me that painted particle board is good enough for the shop.
What say you?
I have built a number of shop cabinets and work stations out of melamine using Confirmat (called Fermit screws on Amazon) I use the step bit to pre-drill and they have held up very well for the last 15 years. I add iron-on edge banding for looks and protection.
Posts: 4,911
Threads: 3
Joined: Apr 2009
I would suggest you check and see if there is a Restore near you. The one near me often gets plywood, msg and particle board which they sell at really good prices.
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$
Posts: 12,884
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
The shop cabinets I made follow a Woodsmith article from long ago and have maple frames with glued in Masonite panels. If you are going to use frame and panel construction, and you plan to paint them, I suggest you use Masonite or MDF for the panels and glue them in. The result will be incredibly rigid and Masonite and MDF paint great. Just use an OB primer or BIN shellac based primer, not a WB one.
As you found out Thruway won't sell to an individual. Niagara is typically outrageous with their pricing; can't remember when I last bought from them. I either buy Baltic birch thru Gui's Lumber for top end work, or maple, oak, etc. plywood from Lowes. Much of the hardwood plywood at Gui's is from China and is just awful, while most of the stuff I have gotten from Lowes is made in the USA. And if you don't know about Custom Millwork Supply on Franklin St. in Tonawanda, look them up. They are a millwork shop but sell hardwood, plywood, and MDF to individuals if you can be a little flexible with when you pick it up. You want to talk to Andrew Zimmerman.
John
Posts: 1,808
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
If looking to give up some time to save money, I'd also recommend keeping an eye on craigslist.
Years ago, I picked up a free stack of 3/4" plywood shelves that had an ugly grayish pickle finish, but were *amazing* structurally (compared to what I see now).
You might also want to keep an eye on night stands or other small cubbies that can be adapted to your use.
Craigslist's Materials and Free sections would be where I'd be looking.
Keep your eyes peeled for drawer slides and casters. Those all add up quickly, too.
If I were buying sheet goods for shop stuff, I'd buy baltic birch.
Matt
