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Spent a day pushing around a vintage #4 and a #5....
Made a decent pile of shavings....Imagine what your arms and shoulders would feel like.....then come back the next day, and do it again.
One thing to make a few see-through shavings, just to show off how sharp a plane is......quite another to work all day.
This is one of four bevels needed done....with the planes..
Super thin shavings would take way too long...have no time for them.
This mess is from the second and third bevel....there was still a fourth to do.
Then clean things up with a #4, Type 10 Stanley.
So..how would your arms and shoulders be feeling....after a MILD workout like this?
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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06-16-2018, 07:29 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-16-2018, 07:29 AM by Derek Cohen.)
Steven, what has this to do with the WR planes? Do you have one? Used one? Can you comment how they differ from your Stanley's?
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Used one for almost a year....never did like it, sold it on ebay..
So, yes I do know quite well about these planes...
IF all one wanted was see-through shavings, to show off with, fine...but to do a days WORK? Not so fine.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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(06-16-2018, 07:29 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Steven, what has this to do with the WR planes? Do you have one? Used one? Can you comment how they differ from your Stanley's?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Too heavy in the hand, did not like to cut any but the thinnest shavings.....Overweight, over-priced. Over-hyped.
I need a smooth plane that will smooth the surface, and then adjust to fine shavings on the fly....My Stanleys are lighter, nimbler, and easy to adjust, as is my Millers Falls and the Sargent #408.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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(06-16-2018, 07:47 AM)bandit571 Wrote: Too heavy in the hand, did not like to cut any but the thinnest shavings.....Overweight, over-priced. Over-hyped.
I need a smooth plane that will smooth the surface, and then adjust to fine shavings on the fly....My Stanleys are lighter, nimbler, and easy to adjust, as is my Millers Falls and the Sargent #408.
I don't understand. Why would they only take fine shavings? I can understand the weight thing, but that is a personal factor. What is it about the performance that made them "over-hyped"? (I did not realise that they had this reputation). Can they not adjust on the fly as other Bailey-style planes do?
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Mine would not hold a setting in use, unless I cranked the lever cap bolt down hard.....by then, you could NOT make any changes on the fly with just the index finger.
My Stanleys and Millers Falls will not only hold their settings, I can adjust with just the index finger. With no need to crank the bolt down as tightly....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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I'm not understanding something. If you turn the depth adjustment wheel to advance the iron, how can the iron move back without breaking the yoke? It would not seem possible unless the adjustment wheel is inadvertently moved or loosens contact through vibration. I keep the lever cap snug but not so tight I can't adjust the cut on the fly and never noticed a problem.
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I had Bandit's trouble. Took it back to Woodcraft a few days later.
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(06-16-2018, 11:14 PM)HomerLee Wrote: I'm not understanding something. If you turn the depth adjustment wheel to advance the iron, how can the iron move back without breaking the yoke? It would not seem possible unless the adjustment wheel is inadvertently moved or loosens contact through vibration. I keep the lever cap snug but not so tight I can't adjust the cut on the fly and never noticed a problem.
Took about three passes for the plane to stop cutting....yoke was moving back and forth on the wheel.....yoke was too small, where it contacted the wheel.....lot of slop.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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I still do not get it. Turning the adjustment wheel so that it moves back tips the yoke so that tip moves the iron forward, i. e. the cut is deeper. If the yoke is not moved inadvertently it remains in contact with the iron depth adjustment wheel. Any slop could only allow the iron to move forward causing a deeper cut. Many old Stanleys have slop also; there must be something else going on. Or I'm missing something.
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