Laminating an outfeed table and table saw extension wing

[Steve N]

JGrout said:

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if it is tied down to something else one side is the standard

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^^^^^^^ This

I know this for a fact for about 80% of the work done in the USA. That is about the figure of companies using Formica brand now, that are the major players of the laminate countertop biz. I have an inside source at Formica

Now use it on a door, or as Joe suggested in an open bay like area under an open top, and you will likely see more coverage, but in this situation the router table will be anchored down, so there is no compelling reason to skin both sides. If a person wanted to do anything from underneath they should add some support side to side so the PB doesn't snap in two from the weight of the router, and any pushing downward that may occur. Especially if the span is greater than 20" wide.

[Philip1231]

I laminated only the top of my outfield table with Formica, no problem at all.

[handi]

This is why they make “backer sheets”. Counter tops and veneered panels often only require one face to be laminated for decorative reasons. In those cases “backer sheet” is used to balance the panel.

Backer sheet is an inexpensive product that is designed for this purpose. You can pretty much use whatever you have as a backer sheet.

[Stwood_]

Looks like we're back to digging up 2-1/2 year old threads again.

[Cooler]

I was thinking of making a new extension wing (to the left of the blade) laminated with a sheet of galvanized steel.  With a perfectly flat sheet of steel over MDF or plywood, my magnetic feather board will work.

I am guessing I would have to  use epoxy for the steel to mdf substrate.

[Bill Holt]

I was thinking of making a new extension wing (to the left of the blade) laminated with a sheet of galvanized steel.  With a perfectly flat sheet of steel over MDF or plywood, my magnetic feather board will work.

I am guessing I would have to  use epoxy for the steel to mdf substrate.

Now that is an idea I had not considered.  But I think I might prefer Stainless Steal.  Pure SS might not work as well with the magnetic feather board, most of the SS I have been around works with a magnet. 

Cooler, nice food for thought and research.

[Cooler]

Now that is an idea I had not considered.  But I think I might prefer Stainless Steal.  Pure SS might not work as well with the magnetic feather board, most of the SS I have been around works with a magnet. 

Cooler, nice food for thought and research.

Type 400 series stainless steels are magnetic, but not quite as strongly magnetic as carbon steel.  The casting for my saw is in cast iron, and it has not rusted yet (I wax it on occasion).  

300 serices have better anti-corrosion properties but are only weakly magnetic.

So plain steel would probably be fine.  My current steel wing is painted but has ribs to stiffen it and the feather board will not work with it.  

Galvanized steel is available in small pieces from Lowes.  I don't think they carry carbon steel sheets.  I think glue will be preferred to fasteners, though if you know someone with a sheet metal brake you can fold the edges and then edge fasten the steel.   I still think epoxy (or perhaps E-6000) will do the trick.  E-6000 is a styrene based adhesive that remains flexible like silicone adhesive.  It has a much stronger bond--sort of silicone adhesive on steroids.  I just don't know if it will cure when trapped for air like this.  

Epoxy will cure without any air present.  

Slow curing epoxy bonds better with wood products as it allows time for the epoxy to soak into the wood fibers.  I would rough up MDF first to allow the adhesive to soak in.  Or particle board or plywood left raw will absorb the adhesive.   60 minute epoxy would be best (best also for bonding to concrete for the same reasons.)

Drilling many tiny holes in the surface of the substrate will also improve the hold.  Scuff up the steel for better hold.  Wash thoroughly.  If your wife will allow it, run it through the dishwasher.  It will come out perfectly clean.