Forgive me father, for I must sin. I need a...paint sprayer
#21
I've read that oil based white paint will turn yellow over time.  A consideration.

PPG's Breakthrough! (an acrylic paint) dries quickly and the reviews are that it is entirely suitable for kitchen cabinets (and by extension, entertainment units).

[Image: New_Break_Through_Satin__82582.135196768...20.png?c=2]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#22
(06-19-2018, 07:34 AM)Cooler Wrote: I've read that oil based white paint will turn yellow over time.  A consideration.

PPG's Breakthrough! (an acrylic paint) dries quickly and the reviews are that it is entirely suitable for kitchen cabinets (and by extension, entertainment units).

[Image: New_Break_Through_Satin__82582.135196768...20.png?c=2]

I've wanted to try Break-Through; just haven't had a project yet.  Unfortunately, PPG doesn't list a realistic viscosity for the stuff on their data sheet (none listed there) or SDS.  They show it as > 21 cST at 104F.  Well, most anything is greater than that.  That's about 10 seconds through a #4 Ford cup.  They do say to thin 10% or so if using a conventional HVLP set up.  That at least suggests it's viscosity is far lower than ProClassic or BM Advance, but that's just a guess.  The properties are very interesting, however, and I'm definitely going to try it one of these days.  And it would be good choice for the OP - assuming it will spray well for him.  

John
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#23
(06-19-2018, 09:31 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I've wanted to try Break-Through; just haven't had a project yet.  Unfortunately, PPG doesn't list a realistic viscosity for the stuff on their data sheet (none listed there) or SDS.  They show it as > 21 cST at 104F.  Well, most anything is greater than that.  That's about 10 seconds through a #4 Ford cup.  They do say to thin 10% or so if using a conventional HVLP set up.  That at least suggests it's viscosity is far lower than ProClassic or BM Advance, but that's just a guess.  The properties are very interesting, however, and I'm definitely going to try it one of these days.  And it would be good choice for the OP - assuming it will spray well for him.  

John

Interesting.  Quick browse of PPG web site says I can get it at Menards.  Looks like gallon is only size available.

Quick search of Menards web site turns up nothing, except that they are a PPG seller.  Should stop in just to look and see if it's on the shelf somewhere.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#24
Wow. You folks are talking about things that, while I can grasp the concept, are way above what I've learned. I understand viscosity, but I don't know what all these terms are. I'll need to look into it.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#25
(06-19-2018, 11:31 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Wow.  You folks are talking about things that, while I can grasp the concept, are way above what I've learned.  I understand viscosity, but I don't know what all these terms are.  I'll need to look into it.

cST == centi-Stokes the SI unit for kinematic viscoscity.  1 Stoke = cm^2 per second so a cST is 1/100th of a ST.

Dynamic viscoscity is in centipoise for SI units.  1 Poise = gram per cm-second and cP is 1/100 of a P.  This is the fluid's resistance to flow.

They are related to each other via the specific gravity of whatever you are measuring.

It all gets a little crazy after a while.  There are charts for converting cP to various "cups" which have different shapes and orifices.  But since they gave the value in cST for the paint, we need to know its specific gravity to convert to cP.  cP = cST x specific gravity.  

I can't find the numbers that John referenced above looking at the TDS (Technical Data Sheet) for the midtone base.  Maybe they appear in the TDS for one of the other formulations.

And found some posts about the variations in the Breakthrough line.  One claiming that the lowest VOC version (what is most commonly available now) doesn't have the durability of the original formulation.  Originally from a company called Vanex that was bought by PPG.  And an old post from 2016 shows up too.  https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7326490

And since you asked about terms, I decided to find out what PPG was short for.  "Pittsburgh Plate Glass" -- they were a glass making company before getting into paints and coatings in the 60's.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#26
(06-19-2018, 11:31 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Wow.  You folks are talking about things that, while I can grasp the concept, are way above what I've learned.  I understand viscosity, but I don't know what all these terms are.  I'll need to look into it.

That's why I say "buy a cheap gun and try it. If it's too thick to spray, thin it. I understand the technical aspects but find that "sticking it in the gun and see what happens" works for me. .... made a decent living with it too.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




" What would Fred do?"

... CLETUS











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#27
You could spray your entertainment center with an airless and a small volume tip like a 310 or 411. Yes, you still need to move pretty fast. The problem with airless sprayers and smallish projects is the waste of loading the pump and line along with the clean up—very time consuming.

If you’re bent on buying a sprayer I’d get something to go with your compressor or an HVLP. I’d then rent an airless for a day or two for your fence. A quality entry level airless will cost you $700-800 pretty quick. You don’t want to use an hvlp for your fence—way too slow and not enough volume.


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#28
Air consumption 2.4 to 3.9 CFM @ 30 PSI
(06-18-2018, 08:10 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I'm building an entertainment center for the missus.  It's paint grade ply and poplar because she wants it painted white.  The top will be either natural cherry or walnut, so there's that.

Paint sprayers are something I don't know a thing about; I've never thought about them.  I'll need one for this project and then will need it later for painting our fence line, so at least it'll see more than one use.

Can you guys point me in the right direction on where to start?  Or should I just pick up what grabs my fancy at Home Depot?

Lots of good advice here. I am getting ready to spray our kitchen cabinets which are either maple or poplar. They are already painted but they are nicked up so I am re-spraying them. I already tried spraying a couple of them and they looked decent. I used the Rockler System which is similar to the one in the link below. Rockler must have upgraded the sprayer since I bought mine. Mine is gray vs black and not nearly as high tech looking
Smile . According to the description, the Rockler system can spray Latex.

New Rockler Spray System

I am going to try LVLP (vs HVLP) sine my compressor supports 6.8CFM at 40PSI. The gun specs state Air consumption 2.4 to 3.9 CFM @ 30 PSI so that is well within the spec of my gun. Based on my reading, LVLP gives as nice a finish as HVLP with less overspray and LVLP sprayers do not need as much CFM to operate. I am hoping that the finish will be even better than what I was able to do with my Rockler Sprayer. There are plenty of reviews of LVLP on youtube.

Below is a link to a Spray Gun kit that has been positively reviewed on Amazon. The kit comes with two guns, 4 tips, cleaning kit and wrenches for changing tips on the guns.

Spray it Gun Kit

I plan to start the project in the next week or two with the LVLP spray gun kit. I will try to post my results.

Good luck,

Bill
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#29
(06-18-2018, 08:10 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I'm building an entertainment center for the missus.  It's paint grade ply and poplar because she wants it painted white.  The top will be either natural cherry or walnut, so there's that.

Paint sprayers are something I don't know a thing about; I've never thought about them.  I'll need one for this project and then will need it later for painting our fence line, so at least it'll see more than one use.

Can you guys point me in the right direction on where to start?  Or should I just pick up what grabs my fancy at Home Depot?

If you do go with Latex or similar, make sure you check out youtube for the videos on proper thinning. Based on a general consensus, it sounds like a minimum of 10% up to as much as 20% is the amount you need to thin for something like latex.
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#30
I just finished up spraying latex on a couple of bathroom vanities and custom mirror frame...thought I would share my experience.

Bought this $40 TCP Global HVLP conversion gun from Amazon -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NO...UTF8&psc=1  it has the larger 2.5mm tip needed for thicker material.
Used Benjamin Moore Advance Interior Paint Primer 790 and Benjamin Moore Advance Satin 792 in off the shelf white.
Thinned 10% Flotrol and 10% automotive windshield washer fluid (yes the blue stuff - it doesn't effect the paint color at all) strained through a paper paint filter for both primer and paint (Did not use the little filter that goes into the gun).
Light sanding after primer...no sanding between finish coats.
running about 40 psi at the gun.  You do get a bit of overspray, but not too bad.  Much less then the Graco pump sprayers.  
I couldn't be happier with the results.  No more brushing for me.
cleanup is a breeze.
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