Shed Project: Trusses

[jteneyck]

LOL, I think we can all agree that I'm not the first person to call you a perfectionist.

They look fantastic, keep it up.

But don't faint in the heat.

Thanks.  It's been blazing hot (for WNY) all week.  Set a new daily high in Buffalo yesterday of 93F with dew points in the 70's.  A couple of degrees hotter where I live.  Today feels worse and I got essentially nothing done except driving myself nuts with researching siding, but fortunately it's going to break tonight and the next three days are forecast to be really good.  I'm hoping to get the remaining three walls up in the next couple of days and be ready to install those trusses on Monday.  

I'm planning to use vinyl siding because of cost and "no" maintenance.  Anyone have any alternatives?  Vinyl shingle panels look very nice, but not at 3 - 4X the price.  For the roof I'm planning to use typical 3 tab asphalt shingles because I sort of know how to do it.  I know nothing about metal roofs except it looks like it goes up a lot faster?   

John

[Stwood_]

Care to explain?

John

Your end gabels are used when you have a ridgepole and rafters.
Not normally used with your center trusses.

[jlanciani]

Thanks.  It's been blazing hot (for WNY) all week.  Set a new daily high in Buffalo yesterday of 93F with dew points in the 70's.  A couple of degrees hotter where I live.  Today feels worse and I got essentially nothing done except driving myself nuts with researching siding, but fortunately it's going to break tonight and the next three days are forecast to be really good.  I'm hoping to get the remaining three walls up in the next couple of days and be ready to install those trusses on Monday.  

I'm planning to use vinyl siding because of cost and "no" maintenance.  Anyone have any alternatives?  Vinyl shingle panels look very nice, but not at 3 - 4X the price.  For the roof I'm planning to use typical 3 tab asphalt shingles because I sort of know how to do it.  I know nothing about metal roofs except it looks like it goes up a lot faster?   

John

Architectural shingles are easier than 3 tab, and they typically last longer due to the additional thickness. Worth the additional cost in my book. Follow the mfrs guidelines for flashing, underlayment and nailing pattern and you’ll never have to do it again I suspect.

[jteneyck]

Your end gabels are used when you have a ridgepole and rafters.
Not normally used with your center trusses.

I couldn't see another way to adequately support the roof overhanging the gable ends.  And I need to nail the wall sheathing to something; thus, the 16" oc studs.  How would you do it?  

John

[Stwood_]

Nothing wrong with the way you've done it, just unneeded. I would continue on.


Normally all trusses are used. Then as in your case windows were wanted, just modify the truss.
 
Then you want a soffit and facia, just build your soffit on the end trusses before you hang them up on the walls.
Soffit would be built basically like a ladder, then nailed onto the truss. Then nail your sheeting right over onto the soffit.

Or as in a used to be conventional roof, houses and buildings 20 years ago, they built gabel ends as you have, but used a ridge beam and hung rafters off of it. There was no trusses involved.

Now a days, everyone (most) order and use trusses. Big trusses are set with boom trucks, as they've gotten so big the workers can't get them up on the walls.
Carpenters used to *cut in the roof*. (Built the roof system, not using trusses)


Yours is lookin good.

[jteneyck]

Nothing wrong with the way you've done it, just unneeded. I would continue on.


Normally all trusses are used. Then as in your case windows were wanted, just  modify the truss.
 
Then you want a soffit and facia, just build your soffit on the end trusses before you hang them up on the walls.
Soffit would be built basically like a ladder, then nailed onto the truss. Then nail your sheeting right over onto the soffit.

Or as in a used to be conventional roof, houses and buildings 20 years ago, they built gabel ends as you have, but used a ridge beam and hung rafters off of it. There was no trusses involved.

Now a days, everyone (most) order and use trusses. Big trusses are set with boom trucks, as they've gotten so big the workers can't get them up on the walls.
Carpenters used to *cut in the roof*. (Built the roof system, not using trusses)


Yours is lookin good.

Thanks for the follow up.  I've seen the ladder overhang you described.  The shed plans I downloaded had it built that way, but it seems weak to me.  The only thing giving it much strength is the roof sheathing and the fascia board.  It must work, it just seems "underbuilt" compared to the old system with the ridge board and cantilevered 2 x 4's from the last inboard rafter over the gable end wall.  I suspect the "new" approach was adopted because it's good enough for short overhangs and a lot faster to build.  But I would be nervous using it on a 2' overhang anywhere you could get an 18" or more snowfall, unless there were braces or brackets back to the wall studs.  

Anyway, the shed should really start taking shape by Monday.  

John

[Stwood_]

I too never really liked the ladder soffit. Those were usually built that way when you built the complete wall and stood the wall up, siding and all, even 2 stories were done that way.

I've never seen one fall off though.
 

Ridge beam and rafters are my preferred way of building. Move your collar ties high up, which requires no ceiling joists (depending on width), then you have more space inside those sheds.

[jteneyck]

I too never really liked the ladder soffit. Those were usually built that way when you built the complete wall and stood the wall up, siding and all, even 2 stories were done that way.

I've never seen one fall off though.
 

Ridge beam and rafters are my preferred way of building. Move your collar ties high up, which requires no ceiling joists (depending on width), then you have more space inside those sheds.

I would like to have built my shed roof framing that way, for the increased headroom as you described, but didn't want to have to work off the ground that much.  And I figured with 10' walls it was unnecessary, but now that I've lowered the walls to 8' it would have been good approach.  Too late now though.  

John

[Bill Wilson]

Thanks for the follow up.  I've seen the ladder overhang you described.  The shed plans I downloaded had it built that way, but it seems weak to me.  The only thing giving it much strength is the roof sheathing and the fascia board.  It must work, it just seems "underbuilt" compared to the old system with the ridge board and cantilevered 2 x 4's from the last inboard rafter over the gable end wall.  I suspect the "new" approach was adopted because it's good enough for short overhangs and a lot faster to build.  But I would be nervous using it on a 2' overhang anywhere you could get an 18" or more snowfall, unless there were braces or brackets back to the wall studs.  

Anyway, the shed should really start taking shape by Monday.  

John

When I was a nail pounder for a building contractor, many years ago, we built our gable end overhangs a little differently.  We would notch the rafter of the gable end trusses to allow 2x4's to lie flat and flush with the top of the rafter.  We would cut 2x4's long enough to be nailed into the side of the next interior truss, spanning the gable end truss and extend far enough for the desired overhang.  We placed them every 2' along the length of the rafter. The gable end fascia boards would then be attached to these 2x4's.  For added support and to prevent  twisting of the fascia board, we then cut another 2x4 that attached vertically, between the gable truss and the fascia board.  It was nailed through the flat 2x4 support as well.   We built several houses with 2' overhangs and I never had any concerns about walking/sitting on this framing during construction.  It made for a very solid overhang.  Once the sheathing was put down, it felt as solid as any other part of the roof framing.  For small overhangs, 12" or less, I would think the ladder style would be more than adequate.

[tomsteve]

 

I'm planning to use vinyl siding because of cost and "no" maintenance.  Anyone have any alternatives?  Vinyl shingle panels look very nice, but not at 3 - 4X the price.  For the roof I'm planning to use typical 3 tab asphalt shingles because I sort of know how to do it.  I know nothing about metal roofs except it looks like it goes up a lot faster?   

John

id suggest going somewhere other than the big box stores for the siding and supplies . they typically have a higher quality siding available and actually know what theyre talking about.
as for the roofing, it would be wise to run 2 rows of ice and water or 2 feet past the exterior walls(not sure what size overhang ya plan).
 dimensional shingles are awesome.
although 3 tabs arent hard to get the rain slots to be nice and lined up. i snap 2 lines up the starting end then snap a line for every other course.