power sanding disk adhesive

[PVW]

Has anyone found an adhesive that will stand up to the heat of power sanding? I have 3  2 in. sanding disks that the velcro needs replaced on.

[Cooler]

Both silicone adhesive and E6000 adhesive are heat resistant I believe to about 180 degrees.  

Also fabric adhesive is designed to go in the washer and drier and is heat resistant.

Of the thee, the E6000 is by far the strongest.  You can find it at crafts stores or Lowes.

If you run really high temperature there are special high temp silicone adhesives:  

https://www.amazon.com/Technicqll-Temper...B006C65ZCO

[PVW]

thanks. I tried permatex but it didn't work. I'll have to try the silicon next

[chips ahoy]

I have used two part 5 min epoxy with good results.

Mel

[Arlin Eastman]

Mike

At what speed is the object turning at when you sand it?   I used to lose it every day with me and the vets until I turned down the speed to 250rpm about 1 year ago (Yah I know I do not learn to fast
).  It still comes off once in a while but not as often.

I am going to look into the E6000 to and get more valcro to fix about 6 others. 

Crockett did say he was going to make me several of 2" and 3" and when I get them will see how they hold up.

I even bought several of the expensive ones at Lee Valley and they do last longer and I feel sand to the shape better but they are still affected by the heat also.  I tried CA and it will hold it on pretty good but it makes the pad hard as well and I do not want that.

[SceneryMaker]

Has anyone found an adhesive that will stand up to the heat of power sanding? I have 3  2 in. sanding disks that the velcro needs replaced on.

Once you replace the pad, you might review your sanding technique. I think you're pushing too hard, either because you're letting your paper get too dull before changing it, or you're trying to get too much cut from a paper that's too fine. Dull 120 grit IS NOT 180 grit.

If you're sanding on the lathe, you may be spinning it too fast.

Whatever is causing it, you should not be melting your pads.

[PVW]

I have the lathe on its slowest pulley , Nova 16/24
The worst problem I have is the velcro on the disk comes off the sandpaper and if I don't catch it right away it ruins the velcro on the sanding mandrel. It only happens occasionally but it only takes a couple seconds to ruin the velcro on my sander

[MichaelMouse]

I have the lathe on its slowest pulley , Nova 16/24
The worst problem I have is the velcro on the disk comes off the sandpaper and if I don't catch it right away it ruins the velcro on the sanding mandrel. It only happens occasionally but it only takes a couple seconds to ruin the velcro on my sander

Heat from friction develops mostly because you're pressing too hard.  Then you have the squirm from the backing adding to the problem as well.  Third strike from the finer sandpaper with higher coefficient of friction.  

Can't really avoid the third, except by sanding by hand, lathe off, along the grain of the wood.  Best way to do the CAMI320/P400 grit.  Can avoid the second by using Stiff-backed discs like the Powerlock stuff http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...egory_Code=  or similar.  My preference.  While they seem pricy, I get ~three (12"+) bowls each in the 120-180 grit, which is my starting, and a couple in the 240.  Beyond that, by hand, with the grain.

Bowls too random-edged for the very aggressive Powerlocks are interior sanded in my lap with soft-backed Velcro disks.  Since I use a flex shaft, I have that luxury.  Highly recommend the flex shaft, since it can be used with support from the toolrest when sanding lathe on. If you're not obliged to help your tired arm by resting the disk for support on the work, there is less frictional heat buildup.

[iclark]

I have the lathe on its slowest pulley , Nova 16/24
The worst problem I have is the velcro on the disk comes off the sandpaper and if I don't catch it right away it ruins the velcro on the sanding mandrel. It only happens occasionally but it only takes a couple seconds to ruin the velcro on my sander

Have you tried the velcro-backed abranet disks? For me, they seem to clog less and run cooler.

Also, I would be concerned about cracking the wood if the sanding disk is getting hot enough to melt the glue holding the sandpaper to the velcro. We have seen some small cracks form during sanding that I think were caused by rapid drying of that part of the wood due to the heat of sanding. This was before I switched to the abranet.

[Arlin Eastman]

Heat from friction develops mostly because you're pressing too hard.  Then you have the squirm from the backing adding to the problem as well.  Third strike from the finer sandpaper with higher coefficient of friction.  

Can't really avoid the third, except by sanding by hand, lathe off, along the grain of the wood.  Best way to do the CAMI320/P400 grit.  Can avoid the second by using Stiff-backed discs like the Powerlock stuff http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant...egory_Code=  or similar.  My preference.  While they seem pricy, I get ~three (12"+) bowls each in the 120-180 grit, which is my starting, and a couple in the 240.  Beyond that, by hand, with the grain.

Bowls too random-edged for the very aggressive Powerlocks are interior sanded in my lap with soft-backed Velcro disks.  Since I use a flex shaft, I have that luxury.  Highly recommend the flex shaft, since it can be used with support from the toolrest when sanding lathe on. If you're not obliged to help your tired arm by resting the disk for support on the work, there is less frictional heat buildup.

MM

We used those a lot in the sheetmetal shop and none of us like them.  The tabs would break all the time and fly off.  Then we got the ones with where they are screwed in and those I really really like.  I would love to use those now but with better or thicker pads.  I am pretty sure they are called Roll lock.