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(12-15-2018, 04:20 PM)Strokes77 Wrote: Great saw. But if you buy New, get a sawstop.
No reason not to.
Looking at 3HP saws, if you don't need the table length, for $300 more (give or take) the safety feature of the 30" Sawstop may make it a better buy than the 50" JET. If the 50" table adds another $300 to the Sawstop, I might stay with the JET.
I've had mixed experience with Grizzly, and the 'bad' was with a 1023 model tablesaw (years ago, which is why I used JET for the comparo).
Just looked at Powermatic pricing, and there's no way I'd pay $500 more for that over the Sawstop.
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12-15-2018, 06:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-15-2018, 06:06 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
How important is dust collection to you?
The SawStop overarm and dust collection blade guard together with the standard 4" port dust collection will give you the best ever dust collection among any cabinet saws mentioned in this thread. If you take that route, it is also best to hook up the overarm dust collection to a separate shop vac. or dust extraction. One should also wait until SS runs its promotion if the PCS model is to be had.
Except for edge cuts, I regularly achieve well over 99% dust collection (the vendor's stated efficiency) with my set-up. If you are familiar with the Festool dust extraction performance for its lines of tools, then you know you will be getting as good as, and often better than in my experience, that kind of dust collection performance. I now seldom wear a mask when I work with the SS as long as the air filtration system is running.
Simon (my "relationship" with Festool/SawStop already declared in a separate thread
)
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(12-15-2018, 03:12 PM)CARYinWA Wrote: I bought one when they were first introduced. I don't remember the year. It replaced my 1970's Unisaw. Couldn't be happier.
Bought a new one in 1995? or so. Still running it. Great saw.
Upgraded it to the mulecab fence, and a wixey tape.
I've replaced the centrifugal switch on the motor, and a set of belts is the only parts replaced so far.
It's cut a lot of lumber....
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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Just some information about the Grizzly saws mentioned in this thread. The new G0690 is the old G1023 design(Unisaw copy with a riving knife retrofitted). The new G1023RL is a redesign form the ground up with a riving knife.
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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12-16-2018, 12:06 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-16-2018, 12:09 PM by ®smpr_fi_mac®.)
I second used or SawStop.
On the used market you can find (depending on your location and patience level) PM66's and Unisaws for great pricing.
I have a 1993 PM66 I got for free about six years ago. Had to drive 600 miles for it, but still worth it. I have the 53(or whatever size is the larger)" TS-LS fence on mine and a router table hanging off the right side.
Love it.
Semper fi,
Brad
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(12-16-2018, 12:06 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I second used or SawStop.
I'll add one more option to the list: a slider. If you have the room a slider is a great option.
John
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(12-16-2018, 12:20 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I'll add one more option to the list: a slider. If you have the room a slider is a great option.
John
If you're going to buy new, SawStop now offers the sliding table as an option.
Doug
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12-16-2018, 02:42 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-16-2018, 02:43 PM by KyleD.
Edit Reason: fix poor spelling
)
(12-15-2018, 10:16 AM)museumguy Wrote: If I was looking for a good used saw, I wouldn't be brand specific. It has more to do with the condition of the machine for sale. As long as the bones of the saw are in good shape, the rest can be fixed. There are some wonderful stories on here and over at OWWM about machine rehabs.
This on the saw..... but I would make sure to get with the saw or at least budget for along with the saw a good quality fence. I have a Biesemeyer that does not loose its parallelism and can be set within 5 or 6 thousands of whatever tick mark I line it up to on the tape. This is close enough to be considered dead on for 99 percent of woodworking.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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He has an Incra TS-LS fence already so this won't matter.
Semper fi,
Brad
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(12-16-2018, 12:22 PM)Tapper Wrote: If you're going to buy new, SawStop now offers the sliding table as an option.
Doug
That might offer the best overall compromise of safety and function, but I was referring to a real slider, something like this Hammer. The advantage with a true slider is the carriage rides right along the side of the blade. That makes lining up cuts a breeze, whether cross cutting narrow stock or cutting plywood panels. It also allows you to rip boards, even rough edged stock, w/o using the rip fence. In all those cases, your hands never get anywhere near the blade, which is the ultimate in safety.
I'm not suggesting the OP look at a slider if he only wants to buy new, because you aren't going to get one in the same price range as a 3HP cabinet saw. But there are plenty of used ones out there that are in that price range. And I would have one if I could figure out how to position it in my shop. I probably could, actually, now that I have gotten all the wood out of my shop. Rutt-roh. That's a dangerous thought!
John
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