Band Saw Cutting Slow
#16
I've done it a few times on the no-name blades that Griz sells and it works wonders. Makes a cheap $20 blade cut great. I think I did it 2 times to the last one before I decided that I'd lost enough set. Haven't tried re-setting a bandsaw blade, gotta set some limits on "cheap".
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#17
(01-11-2019, 02:54 PM)sawnuts Wrote: I have a 5 year old Grizzly 1HP and I run a 1/2" 3tpi skip tooth Woodslicer. Nice blade.

Today I was re-sawing some 4" Maple and it would hardly cut. I took my time but it took me a few minutes to get through a 3 foot piece. I actually popped a breaker at one point. I'm a home hobbiest and I don't use this much but I like sharp tools.

I think that for most folks band saw blades are just replaced.

HAs any one tried using a Dremel tool to touch up the blades. I see online several folks recommend it (youtube).

I'm thinking about getting a few 5/32" diamond bits and giving it a try.

I realize that when you sharpen you remove some set from the blade but, if I can extend the life of these things, I think it might be worth a try.

Have you had any luck gumming out the gullets with a dremell?

Thanks 
Mark

Mark

I posted a thread on sharpening bandsaw blades with some youtube and the bits I use to sharpen them with but with a carbide tips I would only use a diamond file or it is to easy to round off the ends of the carbide.
A few other things is this.

1. Soak the blade first to remove the build up on it.  There are several ways but use the same stuff you do on your table saw blades and then take a brass brush and brush it all off.

2. Next check that the belt is tight on the pulley.  Yep it happened to me and wondered why it was getting slower and slower.  Stumped me and had to sit and think about it on my chair with the front of the cabinet open and wal lah seen the belt loose.

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7335941
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

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#18
Jack

Would you mind terribly posting that technique again? It’s going to be hard to find if you posted it 15 years ago, if it’s available at all.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#19
I'd like to try a diamond bit. I've seen your reference to a Dremel diamond 5/32" bit.

I see other mags but nothing that is actually made by Dremel. I have used a few diamond coated bits and they seem to lose effectiveness quickly.
.I have done some searches and found some cheaper ones and they usually come in sets of 2 to five bits. I'd rather put the same money into a good quality bit that will last.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good value in this tool? Part number or make/model. 


Mark
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#20
(01-13-2019, 11:00 AM)TDKPE Wrote: Jack

Would you mind terribly posting that technique again?  It’s going to be hard to find if you posted it 15 years ago, if it’s available at all.

......................
Tom, with the blade still on the saw, I use a chainsaw burr that fits loosely in the gullet { I am not trying to affect the gullet in any way }...After the burr enters the gullet, I just "stroke" the tool down the top of the tooth below, very lightly, doing each tooth in turn. I am not trying to remove very much metal..The main thing to watch for is that you do not let the burr "dwell" near the point of the tooth...you absolutely MUST maintain "clearance" behind the point of the tooth, as you would any cutting tool...IF you can see the point of the tooth, swipe the burr down it once again..If you can see the point, it isn't sharp enough..When the blade is sharp, you can rub your finger over the teeth and they will "grab" your fingerprints like the claws on a cat!!!!. It is much sharper than any "new" blade I have ever used..I am guessing that's because most BS teeth are "punched" as opposed to being 'ground".

Actually it is much easier to do it than to describe HOW it is done...After you have done a few teeth, you will develop the "feel" and your motion will become almost "automatic"...I have consistently sharpened a 93 1/2" blade right on my saw in about twenty minutes....if you take too much longer for the same blade,, you may be over doing it...and You can sharpen them several times when they get dull before the set is gone..Of course, once that happens, the blade is finished.,..If you think I can answer any sharpening questions on this procedure you may have, shoot me a PM or post it here...
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