Built in Bookcases

[Gurubandhu]

I am planning to build 4 cabinets along one wall in our home.  Each would be 8' tall  (our ceiling is an A frame so close to 20') 4' wide and 2' deep.  I do not have the expertise or the time to make something fancy so will make it rectangular.  I want one section to include a desk  with shelves up higher.  Another will have an entertainment center with a TV and stereo with storage for accoutrements.   The others will have books and other things because I want an uncluttered look without seeing the stuff on the shelves.  I do not have a lot of money so want to make it as economical as possible.  Would using 15/32 plywood be sturdy enough  for the units and the shelves especially?    The units would be fastened together so I do not think that would be a problem.  My thought is to route out slots for the shelves on the sides and back.    I am not sure about the front as I want it to look pretty good.  Ideas are to use full panel pieces oak veneer plywood on a sliding track or cut a piece in half for doors.  Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks
GB

[sylvius]

I am planning to build 4 cabinets along one wall in our home.  Each would be 8' tall  (our ceiling is an A frame so close to 20') 4' wide and 2' deep.  I do not have the expertise or the time to make something fancy so will make it rectangular.  I want one section to include a desk  with shelves up higher.  Another will have an entertainment center with a TV and stereo with storage for accoutrements.   The others will have books and other things because I want an uncluttered look without seeing the stuff on the shelves.  I do not have a lot of money so want to make it as economical as possible.  Would using 15/32 plywood be sturdy enough  for the units and the shelves especially?    The units would be fastened together so I do not think that would be a problem.  My thought is to route out slots for the shelves on the sides and back.    I am not sure about the front as I want it to look pretty good.  Ideas are to use full panel pieces oak veneer plywood on a sliding track or cut a piece in half for doors.  Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks
GB

2’ deep is very deep for bookcases as well as for a tv cabinet in the era of lcds. 12” is deep enough for books and depending on what sort of stereo equipment you use probably 16-18” is deep enough. Regular nominal 3/4” plywood is fine for the carcases but at a 4’ span you might get some sag in the shelves especially with books. Can minimize that with a solid wood piece along the edge but might still want to go narrower. You can use sagulator to calculate the sag. I’d probably just drill holes for shelf pins as that gives you a ton more future flexibility.

[Cooler]

I would consider two pieces per section.  A 28" high section that is 20" deep and a 68" high section  that is 12" deep and rests on the 28" section.  

This would be vastly easier to carry and put in place.  It would cost about the same.  It will allow deep and shallow selves.

[rwe2156]

3/4 ply is standard for cabinets & shelves. Shelves can be made of solid wood, but 48" is still a long span.

18" is plenty deep enough for audio visual.

12" is the standard for bookshelves.

+1 on what Cooler said re: upper and lower units.

[Gurubandhu]

These suggestions might work. Here are my concerns. Would I use a 2x4" frame for the foundation/kickplate? If so, do I need to lower the whole lower cabinets since I would have a desk there? Is 18" wide enough for the desk? I would rather have doors on the cabinets since I would prefer an uncluttered look and we may store other things on them besides books. If I made cabinets like this, that would change how I do the doors. How would I do the doors that is simple? That is one reason I wanted sliding doors which would be quick and easy that hang like sliding closet doors. I have done that before and it worked well. I do not want this to be a full week project just making doors. Thanks

[jteneyck]

These suggestions might work.  Here are my concerns.  Would I use a 2x4" frame for the foundation/kickplate?  If so, do I need to lower the whole lower cabinets since I would have a desk there?  Is 18" wide enough for the desk?  I would rather have doors on the cabinets since I would prefer an uncluttered look and we may store other things on them besides books.  If I made cabinets like this, that would change how I do the doors.  How would I do the doors that is simple?  That is one reason I wanted  sliding doors which would be quick and easy that hang like sliding closet doors.  I have done that before and it worked well.  I do not want this to be a full week project just making doors.  Thanks

If your floors aren't pretty darned level then it's far easier to use a separate base, but don't use 2x4's.  The moisture content is too high in them and when they shrink the front of your cabinets will droop down.  Instead, use 2 layers of 3/4" plywood to make the base frame, ripped to whatever width you want the height to be, typically 4".   

It sure sounds like what you don't know about building cabinets far exceeds what you do.  That's not meant to be offensive, only my conclusion from reading your posts.  I think you would benefit greatly by buying a book or two on cabinet design and study how cabinets are designed, constructed, and installed.  Another way to get what you want is to call in a local cabinet shop to design and make the cabinets.  Good luck however you proceed. 

John

[Gary G™]

Will you please share your WW project experience and which tools are at your disposal? This information is helpful to us to help you.

[DaveR1]

What do you plan to use the desk for? How large of a television are you planning for? What is the general style of the house and furniture?

[DaveR1]

Maybe something along these lines. No icing here. Just the plain cake.

[Scouter]

2’ deep is very deep for bookcases as well as for a tv cabinet in the era of lcds. 12” is deep enough for books and depending on what sort of stereo equipment you use probably 16-18” is deep enough. Regular nominal 3/4” plywood is fine for the carcases but at a 4’ span you might get some sag in the shelves especially with books. Can minimize that with a solid wood piece along the edge but might still want to go narrower. You can use sagulator to calculate the sag. I’d probably just drill holes for shelf pins as that gives you a ton more future flexibility.

Most of what Sylvius said, I would make one change. I had to do this for a "customer" once who wanted the same basic idea. The 4' span is a bit much for ply, heck even for solid wood if the books are heavy. I used the pin hole idea as well, but I went one step further. Using wood (or better metal, if it fits in your budget) run a dowel the length of the opening, dropping the openings to 3' 11-1/2" (to allow for 4' dowels). Use these to span the distance, let the shelf rest on top. If you dado the back that can be used to support the self in the rear, otherwise use two dowels (one in front one in back). Metal has the advantage that you can cut dados into the bottom of the shelves for the dowels to sit in and be hidden. With metal a 1/4" dowel would suffice, though you can go to 3/8" if you really expect heavy books.