Your preference for dadoes --TS or RAS?

[fredhargis]

I don't think either is "best". I use both, depending on the nature of the cut. Sometimes it's the RAS, sometimes it's the TS...on some odd occasions it will be a router. I like having the option to use either one.

[Bill_de]

The RAS has always been my choice for dadoes. It is also my first choice for cross cutting long boards. If I had a proper work station set up for a miter saw, that would be my first choice for the long boards.

--

[hcbph]

I also use both.  I prefer the TS when cutting dados the length of the piece while I prefer the RAS cutting across the width of the piece, assuming it's within the limits of the saw and properly clamp the workpiece.
Having had a RAS at least 10 years before I got my first TS I had done everything on it.  What is risky though is cutting dados or doing molding cuts down the length of the piece where the workpiece has to move in relation to the RAS blade.  If not properly restrained, there's the chance of having a piece lift even with the blade guard in place (DAMHIK) that can put both you, your machinery and your work piece as risk.  Nothing more thrilling than have that happen with a molding head on a RAS, you'll change your shorts several times assuming you come out of it unscathed.
That was the reason to look for my first TS and shaper and since then I have not done any molding or length cutting of dados on the RAS.

My 2 cents.

[Cooler]

I bought a second dado  set for my RAS as the table set did not have a negative hook angle.  I now use the negative hook angle set for all my work as it makes a much cleaner cut (but cuts slower).

Remember you need the negative hook angle for the RAS or the blade will climb the stock and shoot right back at you.

For dadoes less thatn 15" I prefer the RAS.  However I made some shelves a while back and I cut the dadoes in the stock before ripping it to the 12"  width.  That guaranteed that the dadoes were at the exact same height on both uprights.  That wider dado was done on the table saw but probaby would have been more easily done with a router and a straight edge, but the tactic worked perfectly.  

First cut the upright board to 25".
The cut dadoes for shelves
Then rip to two 12" uprights.
Then cut dado for rear back board.  
Cut shelve board to exact length of the shelves
Then rip the 11¼ wide shelves.  
Assemble.

[Pirate]

RAS for sure.
I've gang cut 10 or more dados in 1 cut with my ras. Big time saver.
Only use the dado stack on the ts for grooves

[Cooler]

RAS for sure.
I've gang cut 10 or more dados in 1 cut with my ras. Big time saver.
Only use the dado stack on the ts for grooves

I grew up "knowing" that dadoes were cut cross grain in lumber and the grooves were cut along the grain or in sheet goods.  

I've given up on that distinction as everyone seems to call all of these "dadoes" nowadays.  You are the first I've seen in a while to make that distinction.

I've taken to using "plywood" undersized router bits for much of this as it is quicker than setting up the dado blade accurately.  But if I have several dadoes to do, it is quicker and more easily repeatable with the dado blades.

[messmaker]

I grew up "knowing" that dadoes were cut cross grain in lumber and the grooves were cut along the grain or in sheet goods.  

I've given up on that distinction as everyone seems to call all of these "dadoes" nowadays.  You are the first I've seen in a while to make that distinction.

I've taken to using "plywood" undersized router bits for much of this as it is quicker than setting up the dado blade accurately.  But if I have several dadoes to do, it is quicker and more easily repeatable with the dado blades.

I kept a dodo blade on my RAS all the time. Almost no set-up time. had to get rid of it because of downsizing. I wish I still had it.

[mike4244]

I've always cut dadoes with a table saw (I have a Unisaw now) but I saw an ad for a good RAS set up for dadoes at an excellent price (too good -- it's gone 
 ) but it got me to thinking -- which is do you like, TS or RAS?

I've got an old Rockwell 14" RAS but it's arbor is too big for my dado set and a good dado set to fit it would cost more than the RAS.

What's your preference and why?

Table saw, because with the proper set up the depth of the dado or rabbet is always the same. Old trick, make a wood insert with a slight hump in the center . The insert should be about 1/32 /1/16" high evening out 3" past the blade center each way for about a total of 6". This slight hump insures the dado is the same depth from one end to the other.
It is rare that a board is dead flat and straight. Any board that has a cup to it the dado will be a bit shallow where the cup is. Power feeders can eliminate the cup most of the time because of the down pressure. I have a power feeder and still use the special insert I made. 

mike

[jteneyck]

Table saw, because with the proper set up the depth of the dado or rabbet is always the same. Old trick, make a wood insert with a slight hump in the center . The insert should be about 1/32 /1/16" high evening out 3" past the blade center each way for about a total of 6". This slight hump insures the dado is the same depth from one end to the other.
It is rare that a board is dead flat and straight. Any board that has a cup to it the dado will be a bit shallow where the cup is. Power feeders can eliminate the cup most of the time because of the down pressure. I have a power feeder and still use the special insert I made. 

mike

I've had that problem, but never thought of your idea on how to eliminate it.  It's so simple that it's brilliant.  You made my day.  Thanks.

John

[Mike in kc]

Depending on circumstance I use which ever method is most accurate or convenient.   I use the RAS and Router more than the TS I think.  

As for rake, if a RAS is properly adjusted/maintained, there is no need for any special blades.   Until getting my 12" Delta Turret saw, I used the all same cutting tools on both the RAS and TS.