Calling the motor experts...

[R Clark]

I'm putting my Delta Rockwell Super 990 back together.  If you saw the thread in which I worked through the King Bolt issue, well, this is that saw.

Saw was made about 1960; I picked it up for $100 four years ago.  I have not used it since then; it's been in pieces while I cleaned it up and finally (!) got a new king bolt machined.  So now it's going back together and I have pulled the cover off of the motor just to check things out while it's still easy to access.

I have a couple of questions about how it's wired and the start capacitor.

First pic is the saw identiplate.  It also has the wiring diagram for voltage setup.

   

I'm thinking I want 220V service on this machine.  I have both 110V and 220V available at the position where the saw will be placed.

When I bought the saw, it had a standard 110V male plug on the end of the power cord.  However, when I compare the existing wiring in the following picture to the diagram, it appears that the wiring inside the box is already set at 220.

   

You may not be able to see it well in the pic, but all wire seem to be factory-marked and easily identifiable.  

T1, T3, and T5 are wired together to the white power lead as shown on the identiplate.  T2 and T6 are together with the black power line.  T4 is terminated by itself (can be seen near the reset on the right side of the picture.)

I suppose there's a couple of ways this may have occurred.  The previous owner have begun rewiring and then decided to sell the saw.  Or he could have just planned to kluge a 220V circuit with an improper receptacle so he didn't "have to" buy a new plug.

Question 1:  Is this saw already set for 220V operation?  I think so, just need to confirm.

Next pic is the start capacitor.  It is not bulging, or leaking anything.  Appears fairly clean.  But it's marked for 115V.

   

Question 2:  Do I need a different start capacitor to run this motor on 220V?  If I do, is there enough info on this label to purchase a standard replacement?  I've bought capacitors in the past, and I recall different information being printed on them. 

Thanks for any assistance...

[Bob Vaughan]

Question 2:  Do I need a different start capacitor to run this motor on 220V?  If I do, is there enough info on this label to purchase a standard replacement?  I've bought capacitors in the past, and I recall different information being printed on them. 

That capacitor will work fine.  220 is two legs of 110 and the cap is feeding current to one of those legs only.

[stillgotten]

Yes your motor is wired for the 230V configuration.
Most likely the previous owner had a 115V receptacle improperly wired for 230V.

[R Clark]

Thanks, all.

The machine is going back together.  I still need to replace the wiring to the motor, and bought that tonight.  Rethread a couple of control knobs, finish fitting it into the cabinet space and making the table, go through the alignment process, and I'll be able to declare victory.

That's all there is to it.  

   

[Hank Knight]

WxMan, kudos! That's a nice restoration. I have an older Rockwell Super 900 that my father bought new back in the 1950s. I use it almost every day. It's a wonderful saw and you're going to love yours.

Version 2 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

[daddo]

I remember back in the 70's, the hvac shop I worked at had a 14" Delta RAS. That thing scared the heck out of me. When you started it up it sounded like a turbine. I'm guessing it was a 50's-60's saw.

Back then, we built closets for the indoor air handlers and furnaces, made drop ceilings for ducts, installed dishwashers and so on, so we did a lot of special trim work and framing/finishing.

[R Clark]

WxMan, kudos! That's a nice restoration. I have an older Rockwell Super 900 that my father bought new back in the 1950s. I use it almost every day. It's a wonderful saw and you're going to love yours.

Version 2 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

Hank, thanks!

My saw is going to go back into the opening that can be seen to the left of the saw in the picture I posted.  In that position it will have about 6 feet of counter clearance to both left and right for long pieces of stock

Can you post a close-up pic of your dust collection setup?  I have a DC pipe and blast gate in that position.  I want to hook it up and also hook in the blade guard dust exhaust port there.  I really am beginning to look for ideas based on how others have put shrouds around their RAS setups to collect dust.

[Hank Knight]

Hank, thanks!

My saw is going to go back into the opening that can be seen to the left of the saw in the picture I posted.  In that position it will have about 6 feet of counter clearance to both left and right for long pieces of stock

Can you post a close-up pic of your dust collection setup?  I have a DC pipe and blast gate in that position.  I want to hook it up and also hook in the blade guard dust exhaust port there.  I really am beginning to look for ideas based on how others have put shrouds around their RAS setups to collect dust.

WxMan,

Here are some photos of the dust collection setup on my RAS as you requested:

It's pretty straightforward. My main duct back to the cyclone (a ClearVue 1800) is 6". There is a 6" to 4" wye just after my blast gate. The 6" line turns and extends down to the rear dust chute/catcher. The 4" line is reduced to 3" and again to 2" (I think) before it attaches to the dust chute on the saw's blade guard.

IMG_4498 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

IMG_4495 by Hank Knight, on Flickr


IMG_4499 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

By the way, the black and orange tape you see is self-fusing silicone repair tape. It has no adhesive, is very elastic and it sticks only to itself. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258/ref...s9dHJ1ZQ==) I like it a lot better than duct tape for this application.


I tried several ideas for a rear dust/chip catcher. The one that worked best was a standard 6" HVAC fixture I found at my local Home Depot.

IMG_4497 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

IMG_4500 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

It works very well. I would have thought that the fence would interfere with the dust/chip stream off the saw blade, but it' doesn't. The setup catches 95% to 99% of the dust and chips off my saw. I'm sure the 6" main duct and the large air flow generated by my cyclone are keys to its efficiency. I'm very happy with it. From the saw, it's a straight shot back to the cyclone (the cyclone is in the small sound deadening closet behind my table saw).

IMG_4501 by Hank Knight, on Flickr

It's probably worth mentioning that I only use my RAS for straight 90 degree cross cuts and an occasional 90 degree dado. If you plan to use yours for angled cuts and all the other various applications the saw is capable of, I don't think my setup would accommodate those. You would need to find a way to reposition the rear dust/chip catcher so it would be in line with the blade when you change from a straight 90 degree cut. Hope this helps. If you have more questions, PM me and I'll try to answer them. Sorry for the messy shop.

[R Clark]

Thanks, Hank.

I'll be studying these pics for a bit.  The elbow fitting on my blade guard is a scavenged elbow from my old C-Man RAS which is long gone.  I'm going to feed it in, much like you have done.  Thanks for the link to that silicone tape.

I think I'll experiment with angle cuts after I get everything aligned.  I need to understand how to attain repeatable success on this machine.

OBTW:  I'm the last person to talk when it comes to messy shops...