sealing a threshold to concrete
#21
(12-23-2019, 12:57 PM)CLETUS Wrote: Fix what is causing the water to flow toward the door.



so either stop it from ever raining, or tear down the building, jackhammer out the concrete pad, re-pour the pad correctly and then rebuild the building.....


or seal the threshold to the concrete in a better way.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#22
(12-23-2019, 01:46 PM)meackerman Wrote: so either stop it from ever raining, or tear down the building, jackhammer out the concrete pad, re-pour the pad correctly and then rebuild the building.....


or seal the threshold to the concrete in a better way.

How far off level (toward the structure) is the corner of the pad? Are we talking 1º, 10º?
mike
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#23
(12-23-2019, 01:50 PM)mstens Wrote: How far off level (toward the structure) is the corner of the pad? Are we talking 1º, 10º?

across ~8' 6" width of the pad, its about 5/8"-3/4" difference from high to low.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#24
(12-23-2019, 02:03 PM)meackerman Wrote: across ~8' 6" width of the pad, its about 5/8"-3/4" difference from high to low.

I'd look to build up the corner, slope it away. That'd help a lot. Then caulk at the new joint. Easier than demo and rebuild.
mike
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#25
Buy PVC brick molding, rip taper to fit, tap wedge into place, install with a good watertight construction adhesive such as Lexel waterproof sealer.
You’re welcome.
Gary

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#26
(12-23-2019, 02:05 PM)mstens Wrote: I'd look to build up the corner, slope it away. That'd help a lot. Then caulk at the new joint. Easier than demo and rebuild.

the shed's mudsill and threshold are level....and not in direct contact with the concrete in the low corner.  I've shimmed both up.  

I've got the mudsill watertight by gluing to the concrete some galvanized sheet metal angle and then nailing that to the mudsill, then the house wrap and siding comes down over the sheet metal.  but for the threshold I just tried to caulk it to seal it to the concrete and what I used isn't keeping the water out.

So I'd rather not rip out the sealant that I used, seal it with something else, find out that doesn't work, repeat over and over.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#27
(12-23-2019, 02:12 PM)Gary G™ Wrote:  Lexel waterproof sealer.

never used it.  I'll take a look.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#28
(12-23-2019, 01:46 PM)meackerman Wrote: so either stop it from ever raining, or tear down the building, jackhammer out the concrete pad, re-pour the pad correctly and then rebuild the building.....


or seal the threshold to the concrete in a better way.


I'm imagining a grade problem around the door. Get the water to flow away from the door.

You will never get it to seal if you have water pooling around the door.
Mark

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#29
(12-23-2019, 02:29 PM)CLETUS Wrote: I'm imagining a grade problem around the door. Get the water to flow away from the door.

You will never get it to seal if you have water pooling around the door.

Me too, I have a similar issue with the once-carport.. now garage.. so I'm going to rent a concrete grinder and grade the entrances away. Water will invariably find a way in if it pools
mike
I ain't a Communist, necessarily, but I've been in the red all my life
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#30
There's ~20" of the concrete pad in front of the door.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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